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  Topic Review (Newest First)
05-18-2019 03:16 PM
CJDave78 All set. It turned out to be a conflict between the three bulb tail lights and the extra side marker. I put the new two bulb "original" tail lights on and stuck blubs in the side marker pigtails and it all works like it should. I ordered some of the separate side markers and just have to mount them to the tub when they get here. Electrical sorted. Thanks painless performance. I can't even imagine what a job doing all that by hand one circuit at a time would be.
05-18-2019 07:01 AM
CJDave78
Quote:
Originally Posted by MetalMountainGoat View Post
At this point, I would go through and ground all the wires that painless says are optional for steel tubs. This should make sure you have a good ground. I also bought the 40 dollar ground strap kit for mine and installed it before I even tested it. You might want to consider this as well.

Ground strap kit goes engine to frame, firewall to frame, dash to firewall. The ground straps guarantee that you have a good ground connection.
Installed the ground strap kit. checked and installed every ground I could find. tried replacing the tail lights (one was badly rusted inside.) still acting funky.

Headlights off: everything functions normally
Running lights on: running light and fender light blink opposite of each other and the dash indicator blinks slowly.
Headlights on: either signal makes both tail lights flash like hazards, right side is brighter than left, reverse lights flash with tail lights. Can't find the source.

Also the tail lights that are on it have built in side lenses with a third bulb. The harness is wired for a separate rear side marker that I don't have. (I tried putting a bulb in those just to see if it needed that to function correctly, that's not it) Replacement lights I ordered are only two bulbs not three? did the PO stick the wrong tail lights on at some point or are there just no aftermarket 3 bulb ones?
05-16-2019 08:53 PM
BrutusBlue
Quote:
Originally Posted by DougE View Post
BrutusBlue - you have a part # and source?
Yes. Sorry for the double posts.

Sargent Open Barrel Crimp Tool (24-14 gauge)...different versions of the same tool are available...price varies from about $18 to $50. This one has the narrowest mouth and will effectively crimp almost any connector from relays, fuse block and packers connectors.

Delphi p/n 06285847 (56 series 20-10 gauge)...my favorite... has a bit wider mouth but has much better crimp leverage, with practice you can crimp any of the same connectors with this one that the one above will crimp only better.

Delphi p/n 12125080...for LS motor pin connectors.
05-16-2019 02:31 PM
DougE BrutusBlue - you have a part # and source?
05-16-2019 12:01 PM
John Strenk Ever notice they never crimp more than one wire in a terminal.
They would put a splice in the wire a few inches away rather than try to crimp two wires in each terminal.
05-16-2019 11:59 AM
BrutusBlue You have to buy the correct crimper. Delphi makes different styles for the correct size connector. They are not cheap but well worth it...I bet I have $150-200 just in three different Delphi crimp pliers. I crimp the exact packard connector when I run all sorts of wires for light relays, fuel pump wires, etc. when I want to use the extra holes in the bulkhead connector.
05-16-2019 11:39 AM
BrutusBlue You have to buy the correct crimper. Delphi makes different styles for the correct size connector. They are not cheap but well worth it...I bet I have $150-200 just in three different Delphi crimp pliers. I crimp the exact packard connector when I run all sorts of wires for light relays, fuel pump wires, etc. when I want to use the extra holes in the bulkhead connector.
05-15-2019 08:53 AM
DougE If you want to add a male Packard 56 connector to the engine side bulkhead connector, there isn't a crimper that works due to the protrusions in the crimping section of the connector. Not my cure, but found this modification that works. You have to cut a groove in the crimping die with a cutoff disc.
05-15-2019 06:58 AM
TexasXJGuy1
TexasXJGuy1

Quote:
Originally Posted by MetalMountainGoat View Post
At this point, I would go through and ground all the wires that painless says are optional for steel tubs. This should make sure you have a good ground. I also bought the 40 dollar ground strap kit for mine and installed it before I even tested it. You might want to consider this as well.

Ground strap kit goes engine to frame, firewall to frame, dash to firewall. The ground straps guarantee that you have a good ground connection.
Great Advice!!! I like to Ground my Grounds and Star Washer my Star Washers. Say no to dim lights and slow wipers...
05-14-2019 03:53 AM
John Strenk Where I live, I like using these just to keep the salt spray from getting under the nut.



They are called internal tooth washers.

I'll also use dielectric grease on the grounds also.
There was another product someone posted on here that works better at keeping corrosion from forming around the ground but I can't recall it right now.
05-13-2019 04:43 PM
MetalMountainGoat
Quote:
Originally Posted by CJDave78 View Post
Thanks I have a bunch. I didn't think to add them there. I might go around and make sure they all the grounds have them.
At this point, I would go through and ground all the wires that painless says are optional for steel tubs. This should make sure you have a good ground. I also bought the 40 dollar ground strap kit for mine and installed it before I even tested it. You might want to consider this as well.

Ground strap kit goes engine to frame, firewall to frame, dash to firewall. The ground straps guarantee that you have a good ground connection.
05-13-2019 01:50 PM
beavis83cj7 I just installed new parking/turn signal lamps this weekend and had a heck of a time. My shoulder type screws were still in good shape which allows a good grounding connection with the grill. I didn't have much luck with the screws (non-shoulder) that came with the replacement lamps. I also had to oval out the plastic lens screw holes a bit so the shoulder screw would make good contact with the grill. Only issue I had is the passenger side lamp is weak so I need to figure that out.
05-13-2019 01:23 PM
CJDave78 Thanks I have a bunch. I didn't think to add them there. I might go around and make sure they all the grounds have them.
05-13-2019 08:55 AM
Fourtrail
Quote:
Originally Posted by CJDave78 View Post
Still having some issues with the signals especially when the headlights are on. should I run an additional ground even though the housing grounds to the body through the screws that hold it in place? (lights don't even come on unless the screws are in.)

You may still be having grounding issues. I would suggest picking up some tooth washers to put between the light housing and the grill shell. They will make better contact for the ground path than just the screw going through sheetmetal.


05-13-2019 08:46 AM
CJDave78 Still having some issues with the signals especially when the headlights are on. should I run an additional ground even though the housing grounds to the body through the screws that hold it in place? (lights don't even come on unless the screws are in.)
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