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  Topic Review (Newest First)
Today 02:53 PM
NashvilleTJ Nice work Tanner - and at least your jack is still yellow...

Quote:
Originally Posted by tbunch View Post
We did loose 1 Heim that got bound in the threads, but it was East to fix and I’ll just replace the one.
I picked up a set of these monster left and right hand taps for just that reason. They were expensive, but I've built several sets of control arms and these have come in handy many times. I weld the bungs in without the joints threaded in - specifically to avoid a bound joint - and then chase the threads afterwards.
Today 09:38 AM
tbunch More progress, the rear is getting closer. I had my buddy generously offer to tig my links for me so we knocked that out this weekend.
Attachment 3889725
Here’s my PSA: closing your eyes is not a replacement for a welding hood! I rotated the links while he did the welding, but forgot my hood so not only did I get flashed about a million times, but I got Uber burned. Half my face is a stinging bring red and my eyeballs feel like I rubbed onion in them. My wife affectionately let me know I’m an idiot. Lesson learned. We did loose 1 Heim that got bound in the threads, but it was East to fix and I’ll just replace the one.

Yesterday I got the axle put back in and all the links lined up. Then spent some time building the coilovers mounting. I built an assembly that goes across the cage and allows them to mount to the cage. Since it will be tied to the frame it will be plenty strong to hold it all. I had to adjust the whole thing once, but overall it was easy (other than my eyes watering and burning the whole time). I set the coilovers according to the advice of accutune and pirate, raked slightly in for stability and slightly forward to align with the arc of the links. I was stupid and only bought enough tabs for one side so I have to do the other side later, but the tabs are the easy part. I did cycle the one side and I think all the clearances are good. Will check again with springs on.
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Today 09:27 AM
tbunch
Quote:
Originally Posted by NashvilleTJ View Post
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Hey hey hey now! I didn't say I don't like the yellow.. (hard backpedaling).. actually yellow is my favorite color, but with the red it was a bit much, and the red was there first. Maybe once I get all other aspects really dialed in on this thing it'll get a proper paint job and I really might go full yellow.
02-16-2020 08:58 AM
NashvilleTJ
Quote:
Originally Posted by tbunch View Post
I think Iím ditching the yellow this round since I pulled all the yellow stuff off.

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02-15-2020 11:24 PM
tbunch Little more progress today. Added some gussets to the crossmember to brace up the links, seems I didn’t take pics though. Then reinstalled it with all the bolts and actually tightened it all down for the first time for real. It may come out again before I’m done, but it’s almost ready.

Then I took on some small sidetrack projects. Worked on the 14b mini shave. I cut the bottom lip mostly off, the. Ground smooth. I may still cut more, but I’ll be into the bottom bolt hole if I do., I may also just leave it like this, and if I end up hanging up on things I can do a real shave kit or shave cover later.
Attachment 3889145

I also cleaned up and painted 2 of the beadlock wheels, then mounted one of the tires up. I think I’m ditching the yellow this round since I pulled all the yellow stuff off. I love yellow, but it felt a little hot-wheels I’m my application. I toyed with the idea of going yellow cage, links, wheels and bits and calling it the McKrawler, (last year my buddy said the red and yellow made him think of McDonald’s) but decided against it. Either way, I don’t think this looks bad.
Attachment 3889143

Lots of other small less fun stuff like replacing bearings and parts, but if all goes well the rear coilovers should be mounted this week!
02-14-2020 01:29 PM
tbunch
Quote:
Originally Posted by NashvilleTJ View Post
I think that looks plenty beefy. If you hit hard enough to break that thing loose, youíve probably got bigger problems.
That gives me some reassurance. I've seen both trains of thought; the guy that built his out of 1/2" thick unobtanium, plated with kyber crystal and gusseted in 37 places with dark magic and ancient Indian enchantments that folded like tissue paper, and then the guy that built his out of toilet paper rolls and Elmers glue, but has been holding strong for years with 54" stickies, dumptruck axles and a space-shuttle engine.

I can appreciate your input with the attention to detail on your build!
02-14-2020 01:10 PM
NashvilleTJ I think that looks plenty beefy. If you hit hard enough to break that thing loose, youíve probably got bigger problems.
02-14-2020 12:42 PM
tbunch Couple little things. Since it was part of my last build version I re-designed my crossmember support. It was fairly simple because the spacing just happened to work out in my favor. Used my old bracket to make a new template, did some brainstorming with chalk on the floor and ended up with this.
Attachment 3888807
Attachment 3888809
Attachment 3888811
Basically mounts via a poly bushing to the crossmember. I have a cage tie in kit that I was originally gonna use but changed plans on. I added some gussets and got it all welded together.
Attachment 3888813

With that wrapped up the crossmember is basically done. I acetone it for paint and put it inside so it will warm up enough for the paint to stick.
Attachment 3888815
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I’m really happy with the way it came out, however, I’m questioning if it will be strong enough. It mounts using 4, grade 8, 3/8 bolts all the way through the frame, with the holes in the frame sleeved, but the footprint on the mountings feels small relative to the weight and size of the running gear. I have the advantage that I’m not running big power, but I’m picturing coming down hard, backwards off an obstacle and all the vehicle weight and stored energy being shockloaded into that bar, and all of a sudden it doesn’t feel so beefy... I’m debating adding gussetting from the crossmember to the frame at an angle as one option, or possibly running a tube with bushing ends from the crossmember to the transmission crossmember to help with the twisting and lateral force. I may also just be overthinking it... I don’t know anymore.. but by that same token I’ve also toyed with the idea of totally rebuilding it with .25 mega huge square tube or something absurd! But I’d cry a little if I did that since I’m quite proud of the workmanship on this piece. But looks won’t save me if it’s weak.
02-10-2020 04:11 PM
lovett86 Looks good.
02-10-2020 10:47 AM
tbunch Spent some time on Sunday getting the axle mocked in! Getting exciting now. I tacked all the link ends in and put it all together. Cycled the suspension and took some pics! (And goofed around with absurd flex that can’t actually happen...
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Then I did some detailed measurements and put them in the almighty 4link calculator. Here’s the results:
Attachment 3888093
In all I’m pleased. If I could start again I’d increase the frame seperation, but since I had to change the crossmember for clearance unexpectedly I didn’t have the foresight to just tack things in place. I can cut it up later if it’s bad, but the numbers give me enough confidence to run it like this.
Now I can seal the deal and burn it all in for good!
02-10-2020 07:13 AM
daddyjeep87 Looking good.
02-07-2020 08:01 PM
tbunch I should mention, the change with the crossmember does change my link geometry. I’ve run some link numbers though and I’m still where I want to be, under 100% AS, but that figure did go up. I just have to run it in the top hole for the upper link. If I find it really is problematic then I’ll just change it later, but those upper link towers would be a pain to change so I’m just gonna run it for now, I have just over 5” of separation at the frame, originally I had 7”.
02-07-2020 07:46 PM
tbunch Well progress today. Had to drive all over town picking up stuff, but it was worth it.

First off I addressed the crossmember. When I built it originally it was only meant to handle d44’s and 35-37’s, not tons and 40’s. Since the bottom is now clear of brackets I decided to plate it. I picked up some .188 flat stock and whipped up this bad boy.
Attachment 3887575
Then slowly welded it on.
Attachment 3887577
Unfortunately I was waiting on consumables for the plasma cap this was laboriously hole-sawed. (They showed up like 20 min after I finished this)

I also used got some .25 flat stock to re-make my lower link brackets (also put the cutoffs to works since no plasma bits) I was pretty happy with the results.
Attachment 3887579
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I’ll plate the tops later when I finish weld it, but I learned last time to tack until it’s basically ready to run.

I got it Mack installed and I’m happy with the clearance!
Attachment 3887589
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Lots of room for activities.

I also tackled the seat mounts. Originally I had planned to run flat stock with the seats mounted to them, but as I looked at my mounting width I realized I might get away with something else and picked up some trick tabs at the local 4x4 shop. Miraculously my tube mounting width was exactly what it needed to be, I couldn’t have done any better if it was the original plan, so I talked them in and burned them on. Still need to do the other side.
Attachment 3887587
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That’s where the pictures stop, but there was a little more I did. Mostly mocking up the rear axle. I had to pull it out and knock the lower brackets off as well as the truss as it was leaned too far with the pinion set correctly. Got it all mocked back in at ride height and cut the upper link tubes. I’m hoping to get tube for the lowers tomorrow.

Overall I’m stoked, I feel this version is looking much more clean and professional (ish) then the last one, experience pays off.
02-07-2020 09:11 AM
lovett86 I did a hand full of mustang's that way at my old house. When your dealing with long tube headers it makes a big difference.
02-06-2020 11:37 PM
tbunch
Quote:
Originally Posted by lovett86 View Post
Good thing it's a light weight tranny. Lol. I helped a guy at work pull one of those 10 years ago.
That’s for sure. I cheated and just seperated it from the bellhousing, means you can drop it in like 5 min flat since Its only 4 bolts and the shifter. Lining it all back up is much more tedious than just taking it from the bell housing though so.. 6’s?

T-case is even easier, got that re-installed in about 10min!
Attachment 3887473
Attachment 3887475
Attachment 3887477
I had to cut the floor a little more to fit the shifters in, but in all it was pretty simple.

Then I shuffled the jackstands around so I can mock the rear links soon. Planning to build the crossmember link brackets.. again.. tomorrow. I bought some and was going to modify them, but in the end I felt my modifications would make them much weaker than if I built them fresh, so that’s the plan. See how it goes.
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