|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|10-30-2018 05:02 PM|
|EricRThompson||The aluminum tub looks like the way to go! I recently bought a CJ7 and it has an old 'glass tub and nothing is cut out!|
|10-27-2018 08:18 AM|
|Keenaj01||Wow! Nice work. Itís been a while since Iíve seen a tub that nice. Iíve done quite a few complete ground up but never one with completely new parts|
|10-26-2018 08:39 AM|
Originally Posted by EricRThompson View Post
Going over the pictures on the Aqualu website I noticed they had the outlines for the steering column, fuse box and brake master cylinder. When I ordered the body from Aqualu I asked if they could cut out the holes for the fuse box and steering column. They said it was not a problem to do before it was shipped. I also had them build a dash without the radio hole. If I had thought to ask I would have had two more holes cut for extra gauges, but I managed to do that myself.
The cowl vent had an outline when I received the body, so I am guessing they would have cut that out as well, if I asked. Using the outline as a guide I drilled four 2" holes at each corner of the cowl vent and then used a jig saw to cut the rest out.
My wife jokes that it takes me an hour to drill one hole, but when you only get one chance you want to make sure you are certain on the location.
I did not tint the raptor liner to match.
|10-25-2018 12:19 PM|
|EricRThompson||Jeep looks great! Did you have to cut the hole for the fresh air vent in the cowl of the tub, or did it come pre-cut? Also, were you able to paint match the Raptor liner?|
|10-25-2018 08:02 AM|
|SoniCJ7||My plan is to have this ready to get inspected by next weekend. Hard to believe that might happen, given how long this idea has been rolling around in my head.|
|10-22-2018 08:15 AM|
Resolved my front drive shaft not clearing the transmission this weekend.
The transfer case was already attached to the 700R4 from Novak-Adapters, I figured it would be in the correct clocking location for a CJ7. Before ordering the front drive shaft I wanted to have the jeep mostly assembled so I would know how long the shaft would need to be. This included the body, hood and fenders.
Once I received the front drive shaft I could see it would not clear the transmission. I spoke with Novak and they recommended I grind the pan down to allow it to clear. I went under the Jeep with grinder in hand. I removed an ear off the pan, but still had a major clearance issue and now I could see I would need to grind past the pan bolts to create enough clearance.
Out came the transmission jack to help clock my transfer case down one notch. After getting everything back together the front drive shaft just clears the pan.
(pictures to come later)
When it was still in my garage I installed the extra OME leaf to level out the from of the Jeep.
|10-18-2018 09:14 AM|
Originally Posted by CJ7 Joe View Post
I learned about suspensions by reading as many forum posts as I could and calling a couple shops. Very happy with the aluminum body. Instead of using nuts on all the parts I was able to drill and tap each hole, which made it much easier to assemble.
I am starting to see the finish line now after getting the Jeep back from paint.
Made another order(lost track of how many in total) for some additional hardtop parts and some DEI heat wrap for the fuel lines.
|08-31-2018 07:16 PM|
|CJ7 Joe||Thatís going to be a sweet build! Being new to jeeps I had no idea you could buy aluminum tubs lol. Your suspension knowledge is way over my head! Good luck! Iím following!|
|08-31-2018 08:33 AM|
The Body is fully assembled. Now I need to pull it apart to get it painted.
When I bought the suspension kit I didn't want the Jeep to exceed our local lift laws so I went with the ARBCS037R springs all around. After getting most of the parts bolted on I was not happy with the amount of lift in the front. So I ordered extra leafs(OME D24XL) for the front of the Jeep to level it out. Not sure when I will get time to install them as I still have other projects to finish before going to the paint shop.
|08-03-2018 10:02 AM|
|gutthans||I'm using a 'BulletProof' fabbed cross-over. Basically drilling out the knuckles/pitman arm for a 3/4" F11 steel bolt that secures Heim joints. I put the tie rod on top of the knuckle and the drag link over that. No track bar or sway bar. I have a fair pic of my first one where I mounted tie rod under and drag over. This build I placed both on top due to the size of the Dana 44 up front. These joints are rated for about 10 years of service life and DAMN! are they stiff.|
|08-03-2018 09:09 AM|
Originally Posted by gutthans View Post
What type of steering did you get on the ECGS front end?
|08-02-2018 12:17 PM|
|gutthans||Looks great. We seem to have found similar things on builds I have the ECGS front as well and the tie rod taps the cover at roughly 90% of full turn. Did you get your TDK zinc coated after it was welded up?|
|07-27-2018 07:49 AM|
For fuel and spark I decided on the Holley Sniper EFI with a D.U.I distributor.
Plumbed the fuel line, but I am not happy with the current routing.
Might extend both lines so they go behind the tank then and come up on the drivers side.
|07-27-2018 07:30 AM|
Originally Posted by NashvilleTJ View Post
Thanks. I hope to be driving it this fall.
|07-27-2018 07:29 AM|
This shows the Y-Link setup with the PartsMike pitman arm installed.
The drag link is almost parallel with the tie-rod.
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