Jeep Enthusiast Forums banner

Scrambler meets big ugly

43K views 218 replies 21 participants last post by  CJWoodman 
#1 ·
I have owned my scrambler since 2005. After numerous upgrades to my 258 4.2 including Davis ignition and Weber carb I decided to go the v8 route to improve driveability. Here is my lm7 swap project. Started research years ago and began purchasing materials in January 2017. The engine was in great shape inside so we cleaned painted and replaced what I thought should be. Here are photos of the Jeep tear down that started Saturday 5/13. I'm sure I will have questions as I go.
 

Attachments

See less See more
9
#4 ·
This is how it came out. I want to clean up the areas hidden by the tranny, case and fuel tank while I have them out. You can see my failed por15 from 8 yrs ago. Plan is to grind on it, then treat it with osfo. Next I'm thinking epoxy primer then coat it with black paint. Maybe cavity wax in the dark places and frame rails we can't see. Not sure if you can put cavity wax over rust though. Heard it is better than fluid film for that? Anyone ever try cavity wax by 3m?
 

Attachments

#7 ·
The rear main seal was the last gasket to replace. Couldn't be done while on the engine stand so I benched it and got busy. While I had it up there I decided to change the color of the block. This color caught my eye at the parts store.
 

Attachments

#8 · (Edited)
I have spent countless hours sanding and grinding the tub and frame. I loosened the passenger side body mounts then removed the driver side mounts. That allowed me to raise half the tub off the frame giving plenty of room to work. I probably won't have as good a look at it for a long time to come. I found a 2k epoxy primer in a rattle can to help keep the tub from rusting again. https://www.amazon.com/Spray-Epoxy-Primer-Paint-Aerosol/dp/B0043YP8EC It is pricey (about $20 per can) but it worked well. Three cans did most of the bottom of the tub. Next I'll fasten the driver side mounts and start on the little bit of clean up that is left left on the passenger side then paint the whole thing in satin black. I'll probably get two more cans of epoxy to finish up the passenger side. I also went to bare metal on the frame and I used self etching primer by rustoleum on it since it was in pretty good shape to begin with.
 

Attachments

#11 ·
Worked on cleaning up and repainting the firewall this weekend. Bought a custom mixed rattle can of dupont chromabase and a can of dupont clear and did it up. Did three coats of base and two coats of clear. Came out better than the black that was there. Feels nice and smooth and came out great. I need to get a compressor and paint gun to do the inside of the fender wells. The rattle can went too fast. Here are some pictures. The painted photo is taken before the clear coat.
 

Attachments

#13 ·
Bummer, thanks for asking. Sorry for the late reply, haven't even checked in on the forum. I have been working huge hours so been too busy to even touch it. Plan is to start taking one day off a week to work on it by March. Next step is to remove the axles to get em rebuilt and re geared to 4.10 ratio. Did get my hands on a compressor though and got that hooked up so that will help me work faster. I'll start posting when I get back at it.
 
#15 · (Edited)
I am finally back into the project and glad to be back at it. I have Mondays off for the spring and summer so I hope to make some headway. I need to finish up some details before I start the engine install. I was able to get my hands on a compressor over the winter and that will help me work faster.
The next logical purchase was a sand blast set up. I decided on the Harbor Freight 40# rig part number 68992. Here are before pictures of my grill. It had rust in corners and places that would be hard to get at so this would be the perfect test. I set it up excited to begin cleaning it up. I followed the directions and spent three hours trying to get it to work. It kept jamming up with media. I gave up for the day and decided to do some research. After reading some of the reviews on the HF site I found that some fine people were kind enough to share their experiences and how they were able to get it to work. It seems that following the directions was the problem. They say to open the abrasive vale open full when using. If you do that it will jam in 5 seconds or less. After playing around I found that setting the valve at 1/3 was the best. It made quick work of the rust I will attach the after photos next.
 

Attachments

#18 ·
I sent the trans out to be rebuilt and to have the Novak trans adapter and shaft installed. I also had the dana 300 rebuilt at the same time. I am now in the process of detailing both. I am getting ready to order the shifter. Lokar seems the logical choice. Just can't choose between the 16" or the 23" shifter. If anyone has images of a 23" installed I would appreciate a look. Thanks.
 

Attachments

#20 ·
I had the day off so I was able to start removing the rear axle for it to be rebuilt and re geared. I have already ordered the parts and I just need to get it to the shop so they can turn it around. I decided to go with 4.10 ratio and factory ten one piece axles as well as a Detroit true trac limited slip. It will end up on 33" tires. You can see in the photo the seal is shot, it's leaking whats left of the gear oil lol. Another nor'easter is headed our way so I probably won't get it to the transmission shop until the end of the week.
 

Attachments

#22 ·
Found some time to work on the axle today. While tearing it down I found why I was pulling to one side more than usual during hard braking. You can see the gear oil leaking in to the brake drum, it's all over the shoes. Since it was such a mess I decided to drag it outside and sandblasted the whole thing. I was able to beat the nor'easter closing in on us. I'll clean it up better when I get it back from the shop.
 

Attachments

#23 ·
Here's a look at the goodies going in to the amc 20. After researching the possibilities I decided to keep the stock axle. It should hold up fine for my needs. I am dropping the axle off at the mechanics tomorrow morning, I hope he can turn it around quickly.
Also ordering up a drum overhaul kit to finish it off nicely when it's back. I'll keep the drums because the SSBC disc kit didn't review well and besides my set up has done well by me over the years.
 

Attachments

#25 ·
Here are a pictures of the Jeep taken today. The front axle was dropped off this morning at the shop and the rear was picked up. The rear will get some paint and new shoes on her and then return the back end to the ground.
 

Attachments

#26 ·
Hello all. I put a some time in on the rear axle. I had purchased a drum overhaul kit. The drums weren't painted so I put a couple coats of charcoal stove paint on them that I had hanging around, I also painted the new slave cylinders. Then I cleaned up and painted the parts that had to be reused like the e brake struts, e brake levers and guide plates. No one will ever see it but I wanted to anyway. Thanks for looking.
 

Attachments

#31 · (Edited)
I was able to get the front axle back from the rebuilder and I gave the sandblaster another workout. I also cleaned up the hubs and pressed the ball joints in. I used a large washer to correct the angle on the press. U joints and tie rods next. Also a finished shot of the rear axle
 

Attachments

This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top