|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|07-23-2019 07:59 AM|
Replacing front bumper cross member
(pics are kind of large but they show good detail)
So, back in May I "lightly" kissed the back bumper of a Toyota FJ on the way home from work. Mostly, his hitch took the brunt of my impact and his back-mounted spare tire was the destroyer of my grill. The hitch punched thru my bumper cover and smashed into the support cross member. The hood was pushed up about 1/2" but that was due to the support rods at the latch being moved. They adjusted back down nicely.
Decided this past weekend was the time to finally pull it all apart and replace the cross member. Surprisingly, the plastic fascia bracket was only distorted and not broken, but I'll replace it anyway. You can see where the tow ball hit on the bottom portion. Any lower and it might have gone thru the condenser!
You can also see how high my latch support rods are sitting after my adjustment to get the hood down. A noticeable amount.
Using a sawzall, I cut out the center section of the cross member. I can't remember who it was that has gone down this road before and ended up cutting into the A/C condenser, but I'm glad I had read that (sorry, but thanks). I made sure to cut from the back side of the cross member cutting forward (vertically). If you cut from the top and then down, you run the risk of the tip of the blade hitting the condenser.
You can also see now that the cross member had a "bow" to it from being pushed back and up.
By this time I had come to the realization that my cross member had been replaced by a PO some time during my WK's life before me. The spot welds that should have been there holding it onto the frame ends were not visible and sanding down the paint to try to find them did not work. Turns out whomever did the previous repair welded it back together and then ground it all down smooth.
I took an pneumatic die grinder to slowly cut off sections of material close to the frame ends, then used an air chisel to break the welds. It wasn't the easiest way, but it worked.
Cleaned up any rust on the brackets.
My replacement cross member cost me $17 at the local Wrench-a-Part. Drilled out those spot welds to give me my mounting holes to bolt it on.
After a little test fitting, marking hole locations on my WK, and little bit of primer to clean it all up, it was time to bolt it together.
There are 4 sets of spot welds on each frame end holding this cross member on. 3 spot welds at each location for a total of 24 welds that need to be drilled out (3 on the top, 3 on the front, 3 on the bottom, and 2-3 on the backside on the inside brackets, for each side of the WK).
I chose not to use bolts on the bottom since my tow hooks would be mounted there. I did use the existing slotted hole in the inside bracket for the back side of my "new" cross member. A total 14 bolts (3/16" dia x 1" long) plus the mounting brackets for the tow hooks. I don't think it's going anywhere.
After seeing the fins on the bottom of my A/C condenser, I decided it would be beneficial to mount a screen into the lower opening of my bumper cover. Home Depot sells a 3' long screen gutter guard (3/16" openings) that is already painted black and runs about $3/ea. Gutter Guard
It has a "Z" bend in it that needs to be flattened out. Once you do, the piece covers the opening nicely.
A few zip ties and it's held in place good. Note: wait until you test fit the bumper before making openings for the tow hooks to come thru. You can make the openings smaller/tighter to the hooks that way.
A little bit of zip-tie stitching to the tear in the bumper cover (that gets covered by the license plate) and it was good to get everything put back together. With the new cross member being bolted on, the process to replace it again (hopefully not...) should be a quick one.
|06-04-2019 01:25 PM|
|06-03-2019 04:33 PM|
Originally Posted by badgerwithhands View Post
|06-03-2019 02:17 PM|
FYI, I use the Airlift 1000 system for the WK. Part number: 60811. Does NOT install like the pictures on the website (but instructions that come with it show the way for ours), just need to remove the bump stop and drill a 3/4 inch hole in the bottom.
For ~$100, it made a nice add for towing. About 100 psi for my 8000 lb. travel trailer, with anti sway and load leveling hitch, and it pulled great. I leave it about 10 psi for normal daily.
|06-03-2019 07:59 AM|
It was strange how it happened, though. Driving to our RV storage and things were fine. Turned the WK off when I got there, no more than 10 minutes, when I started it back up there were the lights! Just like that...
|06-03-2019 07:53 AM|
|06-03-2019 07:38 AM|
Got a couple ABS-related codes a couple days ago.
U1418 - Implausible Right Wheel Distance Signal Received
C102B - Right Rear Wheel Speed Sensor Circuit
These two codes caused the ABS light and traction control light to go on, and I had two messages on the EVIC: Service Elec Brake System and Service 4WD System. Cruise Control would not work. Traction Control System was disabled, but I could still get into 4LO.
We had plans to use the WK this weekend, so I still drove it about 90 miles total. Somehow it put a load on things and it caused some very poor mileage, like 8 mpg! It wasn't loaded up, no towing, just regular driving.
Anyway, got it fixed for less than $30 and being on the right side it was really easy to access. As soon as I started driving with the new sensor, the lights went out! Everything is good now.
What I do want to know is, does anyone know how to check the wheel speed sensors to verify their operating condition? I know you can Ohm them out to give an indication, but what should it be reading?
My old one tested at 12.5 Ohms. The new one tested at 0.46 Ohms before install. I checked the left rear just to see and it tested at 12.25 Ohms. Not sure what any of this means...
|06-03-2019 07:26 AM|
Update on the catch can...
After 2000 miles with it on, I've collected roughly about an ounce of oil. It wasn't milky, but was a little dirty (time for an oil change anyway) and it smelled terrible! But it's working!
|05-15-2019 06:36 PM|
Your not alone, I have an 08 WK with the 3.0L. It has 198000kms and in the last 10000 or so Iíve had both the driveshafts go bad (which pissed me off when I found the rear is not servicable) passenger side half shaft and drivers side 4000km later, swirl motor (which the mechanic snapped a linkage), a bad bearing in the front diff, rear main oil seal, brake booster, and the latest is a rattling noise I thought was drivetrain as it would only happen when driving but the other day when I started it and the noise happened worse than ever and at idle, I shut it off and came out later to try and diagnose with a diesel mechanic buddy that thought it sounded like a bad turbo only to throw a P0336 code for the crank sensor. Now I understand a lot of this stuff will happen at any time but I just think itís fishy that it all happens within (and probably less) 10000kms lol
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|04-29-2019 08:58 AM|
Finally installed my catch can...
Got my catch can installed yesterday.
15/32" hose slips over the intake/PCV ports just perfect. It was a little tight on the 5/8" nipples coming off the can, but it works.
My bracket was just a small piece of 1/8" x 1/2" flat bar that (miraculously) had holes already spaced out for mounting the can. I hung it all off the ground location on the passenger side firewall.
Catch can is from Espeeder - 300 mL with a dipstick. Cheap, but it'll do.
ESpeeder catch can
|12-08-2018 08:16 AM|
Thanks for posting all this, esp the rad replacement which if you own an older Jeep, sooner or later you're going to have to do it and the water pump. I did the rad on our old '98 back in 2011 or so, while the ZJ is much simpler than the WK, the space round the rad is very limited and makes the job a bit fiddly. Used an OE rad and water pump, still fine now.
About the windshield....if the windshield was ever replaced....like mine....it is sometimes possible that the urethane adhesive did not bond the windshield 100%. I had mine done a few years ago and then a few months later, I started to get an odd rattling/flexing noise right at the driver's side windshield pillar. I put my fingers on the windshield and could feel the windshield moving! Took it back to the glass place and they re-did it for me. And before the noise, I noticed a small leak on the driver's floor mat...just something to think about....
|11-16-2018 08:34 AM|
2 month update with large amounts of rain since...
Still no leaks! :cross fingers:
|09-06-2018 12:41 PM|
Originally Posted by brent_m View Post
After the first attempt at putting sealant behind that strip ultimately failed, I decided to fill it up and extend it at least an 1/8" onto the paint.
As of this afternoon's car wash and last night's dowsing with a hose for 30 mins, I have no more leaks!!! Time to put it all back together.
A-pillar covers, C-pillar covers, and rear D-pillar covers have to be removed. C-pillars can hang as seatbelts go thru them. The B-pillar covers I loosened, but used them to help hold the headliner while I disconnected all the wires. You can then push them in and out of the way of the headliner as they don't tend to want to move much because of the seatbelts and the lower portion of the covers (to the floor).
I have a sunroof control in the upper console and a DVD screen that all had to be removed also so that took an extra couple minutes. Lots of wires... There is a wire harness that runs along the driver's side of the headliner that plugs in at the D-pillar in the back. 3 plug connections, although I'm still unsure what all I disconnected - radio/speakers all work, rear defrost works, rear wiper works. You'll also have to disconnect the rear-wiper-spit tube. It has a disconnect right behind the 3rd brake light on the hatch, and also on the driver's A-pillar.
At the rear most side-window portion of the headliner, there is a small plastic strip that is screwed in place. It is about 1" wide x 14" long and on both sides of the headliner (Right & Left, and top & bottom - 3 screws each). Once removed, you'll see 3 oblong holes in the headliner in line with each other. You will have to fold over the outer edge of the headliner at these holes in order to squeeze it out thru the back of the vehicle. There is no other way to get it out. Any crease in the headliner because of the fold will be covered back up by those plastic strips.
I did it by myself, but it definitely would have been easier with an extra pair of hands...
|09-06-2018 05:39 AM|
|Sneaky2Toes||How difficult and how long did it take to remove the headliner?|
|09-05-2018 08:39 PM|
I know that black strip on the top was deleted after 2005. I hate to ask after the fact, but do you think you could have removed that black plastic strip before applying your fix? It looks like you've filled that void with caulk so you probably nailed it.
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