|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|11-04-2019 04:33 PM|
|lowslungCJ||I am the same way @skizriz I kept a carb and leaf springs to prove a point that a $5,000 old school Jeep could keep up with a newer much more expensive Jeep! So far it's done great! Once I sell some parts I'll order up some F250 shock mounts and measure for shocks. This weekend I hope to move the steering box to make some clearance for the tierod and draglink not to kiss anymore as well as notch my frame a bit more for the draglink.|
|11-01-2019 11:01 PM|
Nothing wrong with those 35 year old leaf springs. I sat on a rock at the top of a nastly trail a few weeks back, after crawling it at idle, and watched my buddy in his $50,000 custom buggy with more money into his suspension than my entire jeep, about burn down his LS trying to make it up before he finally gave up.
I just watch and smile....
|11-01-2019 10:36 PM|
Ive been running Doetsch Tech DT3000 shocks for about 5 years, and really like them. They are finally getting to the point of needing replaced after tons of abuse. They are valved soft for light weight rigs, work great on CJs. Under $40 each, and come in sizes from 13" to 36" .
I believe mine are the 3368 which are 17" collapsed and 28" extended with 1/2" eyes on each end.
The F250 shock mounts are a pretty standard, budget minded, shock tower that can be bolted or welded on.
|11-01-2019 09:56 PM|
Well I got the bump stops tacked into place and everything clears at full bump with 3/4” to spare. I currently have 4” of uptravel and 3/4” of compression before bottoming out. I am super excited about that and I still have 6.5” of down travel! This Jeep is gonna be so much better than my previous CJ5. It may not ride or flex as good as coils but I am using 35 year old Waggy leaf springs!! I will also have to remake the passenger front brake line once the shocks are mounted.
I’m at a stand still until I save up money for shocks and shock towers. If anyone has some suggestions on what brand and where to buy shocks I would take it! I’m looking at Bilsteins 5125 Shocks but they cost a pretty penny! Once I buy shocks, mount them, and test clearances with the tires I will then burn in all the mounts and move onto fixing the steering clearance issues.
|10-24-2019 05:29 PM|
|skizriz||The picyures are still there for me. Just let me know if you need anything when you are ready.|
|10-24-2019 12:31 PM|
thanks for the pictures! I probably wouldn't attempt rotating my diff unless I convert to a 60 front right now. I think the problem for me is that I am visiting offroad parks where I hit obstacle after obstacle and the fluid just can't cool off quick enough! I just pulled a Waggy steering box, same as the J10, to tap for hydro assist/rebuild and install along with a PS cooler to help keep the fluid temp down. I need to warranty my PS Pump and do the West Texas mods to increase the pressure before I put everything back together.
For some reason the pictures were there but now they are gone. If you don't mind, could you try to fix the links so I can revisit the images in a month or two when I do hydro assist?
|10-22-2019 08:04 PM|
Rotating the pinion up for a sort of "redneck high pinion" was something I had been thinking about for a couple of years. It was a lot of work to cut and turn the inner Cs, but well worth it in the end. I was narrowing one side anyhow, so it was kind of a no brainer. All summer long, and only a couple of small scratches on my front shaft this year.
Way better than the long, low hanging front shaft it used to have.
The upgrade to hydro assist is money that I wish I had spent years ago. For the couple of hundred it cost, it was money very well spent.
I never had much of a problem with my steering,with a J10 box, flat top knuckles, and full crossover, it always did fine. Most of the local off road parks I went to had short trails, 100 yds or so, then a short ride to another trail. Things had time to cool down. One day at a new place, on a run with the big boys, the trails were 100s of yds long, with relentless boulders from start to finish. My steering got so hot, it melted all of the seals out, and puked everything out of the box that night.
That was when I went to hydro assist.
I can sit on pavement, at idle, with 39" BFG sticky tires, and turn the wheel with one finger now. I've used a tire to push off of trees by turning a tire against it. It's as effortless at the end of the day as it is at the beginning.
I used a 1.5 6" cylinder from Surplus City (?), a tube clamp, and hoses made up at the local NAPA. I use the stock pump, with the orifice drilled bigger for a little more flow.
I would got with a better cylinder next time. Mine has fixed ends that limit mounting options, one with heims that can be adjusted would be nice.
Here is the install on the dana 44.
Hopefully these pictures work, I have never tried the Google picture server before.
I also added a steering cooler at the top of the grille.
Installing it on to the new Dana 60 was a test of patience. It turned out TIGHT. I had to leave the top bolt out of my diff cover because would catch the bolt head.
|10-22-2019 06:50 PM|
Thank you so much Skizriz for all those pictures! I'll for sure copy several of your design features when it comes time to build my new front driveshaft! It would be awesome to rotate the pinion up and get the driveshaft a bit more out of harms way as this is the second trip in a row that I have messed up my driveshaft on!
My next to-do list is to pull apart my leaf springs, set my bumpstops, build a new set of leaf springs, fab a high clearance u-bolt plate for the passenger side, paint everything, and torque it down! Then I'll move onto steering! @skizriz how did you like the upgrade to hydro-assist? I didn't think it would be required for 35's but when I move to 37's I feel like its going to be required so I figured I would go ahead and start saving.
|10-22-2019 06:11 AM|
Dont know how i missed this build. Here are some pictures of the 2 piece shaft i built for mine. I had to have one to clear my transmission pan. I also wanted to raise it up, after doing a cut and turn on my inner Cs to turn the pinion up 15* for clearance. I got tired of bending 2 or 3 driveshafts every year.
Ill be redoing it this winter. This was what i threw together with extra junk laying around, but it is holding up surprisingly well.
|10-21-2019 06:37 PM|
A few weekends back I went to AOP to test the Jeep and hang with some good buddies for a event called Dixie Run hosted by SFWDA. It was such a awesome weekend hitting the hardest blue trails at the park! The Jeep performed phenomenally and made through every trail I attempted. I also added up the money I’ve spent on the Jeep and surprisingly I’ve only spent $4650 which includes the tubing for a cage, bender die, metal to build a trans tunnel out of, and a Waggy steering box!
The weekend wasn’t without breakage though. My power steering went crazy again and I drove all day Friday without any steering assistance. I also spun the weld loose on my driveshaft using too much WOOOPOOW but that was a easy fix until I bent the driveshaft on Saturday. Now I need to lift the front 3/4”, add bump stops, buy and mount shocks, figure out my power steering issues, and build a 2 piece front driveshaft. I’ve attached the to-do list to finish the Jeep and make it street legal!
|09-05-2019 06:40 PM|
Well I finally finished all the hard fab work on the dash and got the gauges, heater controls, 12v charging ports, and glove box all situated. Painting in 102 degree heat with 95% humidity was not a smart decision but I can always redo the paint later when the body gets painted. This weekend I got the new dash installed and connected using weatherpack connectors. I haven’t connected the fuel pump wiring because I am fabricating a gas tank lift right now.
I also drove into town sitting on a bucket and man that was awesome! It feels so good to drive something you built with your own hands!!
Tonight I removed some old side step brackets from the frame, ground down the booger welds, and laid down some paint on the frame. I’ve only got 1 month left before Dixie Run and I’m gonna get this thing as close to prepared as I can!
|08-16-2019 03:14 AM|
|BagusJeep||Just read your build, subscribed.|
|08-13-2019 11:03 PM|
Thanks for the great detail in your post...there's some good info here for me as well as many others, I'm sure.
Is it just me, or does something about the lines of the modded fenders, hood and grill remind you of a Range Rover? Not a bad thing, just thought it was interesting.
|08-13-2019 02:57 PM|
A few post back I showed where I had some serious clearance issues between the drag link and frame. This past weekend I was able to take a piece of 1/4" 2"x4" tubing and notch the frame to open up 2" of extra uptravel! I'm won't have time to brace the notch before my trip this weekend but I'm also wondering if I even need to put a brace in above the notch.
What do y'all think, brace above the notch or leave it along?
|08-13-2019 02:54 PM|
I've been pretty busy since my first test drive in February with getting the house ready for our first child and of course after her birth. Now that everything is calming down I was able to work on the Jeep some more over the last month and weekend. It seems this Jeep is going to forever be built in stages and not in a short period as life keeps throwing things in the way of me finishing the Jeep!
I nailed down a dash layout for the Jeep and fabricated the new dash last week and spent this weekend finishing it and laying down some paint. I decided to paint the Jeep GM Race Red and used Duplicolor Perfect Match paint and Spraymax 2K Clear on the dash. The picture below was taken 15 minutes after I sprayed the last coat of clear yesterday. Of course, the humidity made painting extremely difficult and I'm concerned the finish is going to take quite a bit of wet sanding and buffing to look perfect.
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