|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|05-30-2020 07:47 PM|
I know the sliders are overbuilt but with the low stance of the Jeep I’ll be using them! Plus I was given the angle iron for free so I wasn’t going to waste it!
In preparation for my ride this upcoming weekend I decided to end my overheating issues with the power steering. I was going to try to rebuild the steering box and port it to install my hydro assist ram before the weekend. The timeline is just too tight but I did go ahead and install the PS cooler and wire up the fan. I know it’s super overkill but if it’s worth doing, it’s worth overdoing the first time 🤪! Anyways here are some pictures of the only place I could fit a PS cooler in.
Forgive the dark pictures as I took them at night. Oh and I forgot to post pictures of the bracket I fabricated to hold the distribution block and residual valve.
|05-30-2020 07:02 AM|
|05-29-2020 07:07 PM|
DIY Slider Info
Check out my $75 sliders! If you ever want to make your own sliders keep an eye out for a brick house being remodeled! I snagged the 3.5”x3.5”x1/4” angle iron for free from a job site. I did have to buy the 10’ piece of DOM, the hardware, and the aluminum backing pieces. The sliders are super strong and support lifting the vehicle without flinching!
Here’s a quick guide on how I made my sliders:
1. Cut angle iron to length and grind the edges smooth
2. Measure out your bolt locations making sure to miss any crossmembers, roll cage mounts, or anything else
3. Drill the mounting holes through the angle iron. Now lift the angle iron against the body and drill through the body to mount the slider.
4. Now remove the slider and bend up your step
5. Weld on your step and filler panel if you want
6. Prime, paint, and mount!
|04-12-2020 05:30 PM|
I’m so close to finishing this round of upgrades I can’t stand it! I finished painting the whole front frame and then started bolting everything on! I’ve got the leaf springs with the add-a-leaf in and supporting the weight of the vehicle. I repainted all the steering linkage and did a quick alignment on the toe in (1/16”). I also bent the passenger brake line to run under the grill and fabricated some new mounts for it.
Hopefully tomorrow I’ll drive it to the local Mexican restaurant for dinner!!
|04-05-2020 07:06 PM|
I got to try my hand at bending and man it’s awesome! I really really enjoyed making this little hoop to protect my winch and lights on the front end while providing some style at the same time!
I recommend watching The Fabrication Series “tube bending basics” class on Facebook if you new to bending. It gave me all the knowledge I needed to take on this project and nailing it on the first try! Next I’m going to make some slider steps once I get the front end assembled and fab the front light mounts.
|03-31-2020 07:46 PM|
Thanks for the complement and I’ll have to check out your Jeep build when I get some free time! I’ve got several budget tricks still up my sleeve that I hope to implement! I was able to squeeze a couple hours in the garage this afternoon and finished quite a few things on my to-do list.
I finish welded the passenger fish plate and fabricated some filler pieces before welding those in as well. I mounted up the steering box to verify everything clearing in every direction from full bump to max drop and I’m good! Then I played with my new TMR dimple dies to see how they look in person. I need to buy a 1.5” hole saw to test the final size dimple die.
#2 Steering linkage at max bump and no turn
#3 Clearance at max bump full turn right
#4 Clearance at max bump full turn left
#5 Steering clearance at ride height. The drag link and tie rod don’t make contact anymore!
#6,7 Quick test dimple die plate
|03-31-2020 09:46 AM|
|daddyjeep87||I just read through your build. You have built yourself a pretty cool Jeep. Well except for that CJ clip on a YJ. I like the low budget and low stance. It isn't too far off from mine.|
|03-29-2020 06:00 PM|
|lowslungCJ||Well tonight I was able to mount the passenger front shock tower and lower mount. I then mounted the wheels and tires to check clearances at full bump and drop. Everything looks great so I'll burn in the rest of the bump stop pads, passenger fish plate, and some filler pieces of metal before I fab some shackle spacers and burn those in too.|
|03-25-2020 07:34 AM|
Once I got the passenger knuckle, high steer arm, and linkage installed it became clear that I was going to have to expand the frame notch on the passenger side to clear the new location of the drag link. I also decided that I wanted to gusset and fish plate each frame notch before I repainted everything for the final time.
I’ve got the driver’s side of the frame notched, gusseted with 2x2x1/4, fish plated with 1/4”, remounted the bumpstop, and mounted up the F250 shock mounts. I’ve still got 4” of uptravel and the shock is fully protected at max bumpstop and drop. I feel so much better now that the frame rail doesn’t have all those holes in it and the steering box is also supported by the fish plate! I’m hoping to build his Jeep tough enough that it doesn’t break or require modification for years to come!
|03-25-2020 07:23 AM|
Well it turns out I was never going to get the steering linkage to work unless I went to a full high street setup. In order to do that I bought a ‘77 K10 D44 and stole the knuckle off it for only $50! Sure beats buying a Reid Knuckle! I used the Napa blue ball joints as the general consensus is they are the toughest right now that you can buy at a auto parts store.
I forgot to take a picture of the new knuckle painted and installed but it is now!
|11-04-2019 03:33 PM|
|lowslungCJ||I am the same way @skizriz I kept a carb and leaf springs to prove a point that a $5,000 old school Jeep could keep up with a newer much more expensive Jeep! So far it's done great! Once I sell some parts I'll order up some F250 shock mounts and measure for shocks. This weekend I hope to move the steering box to make some clearance for the tierod and draglink not to kiss anymore as well as notch my frame a bit more for the draglink.|
|11-01-2019 10:01 PM|
Nothing wrong with those 35 year old leaf springs. I sat on a rock at the top of a nastly trail a few weeks back, after crawling it at idle, and watched my buddy in his $50,000 custom buggy with more money into his suspension than my entire jeep, about burn down his LS trying to make it up before he finally gave up.
I just watch and smile....
|11-01-2019 09:36 PM|
Ive been running Doetsch Tech DT3000 shocks for about 5 years, and really like them. They are finally getting to the point of needing replaced after tons of abuse. They are valved soft for light weight rigs, work great on CJs. Under $40 each, and come in sizes from 13" to 36" .
I believe mine are the 3368 which are 17" collapsed and 28" extended with 1/2" eyes on each end.
The F250 shock mounts are a pretty standard, budget minded, shock tower that can be bolted or welded on.
|11-01-2019 08:56 PM|
Well I got the bump stops tacked into place and everything clears at full bump with 3/4” to spare. I currently have 4” of uptravel and 3/4” of compression before bottoming out. I am super excited about that and I still have 6.5” of down travel! This Jeep is gonna be so much better than my previous CJ5. It may not ride or flex as good as coils but I am using 35 year old Waggy leaf springs!! I will also have to remake the passenger front brake line once the shocks are mounted.
I’m at a stand still until I save up money for shocks and shock towers. If anyone has some suggestions on what brand and where to buy shocks I would take it! I’m looking at Bilsteins 5125 Shocks but they cost a pretty penny! Once I buy shocks, mount them, and test clearances with the tires I will then burn in all the mounts and move onto fixing the steering clearance issues.
|10-24-2019 04:29 PM|
|skizriz||The picyures are still there for me. Just let me know if you need anything when you are ready.|
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