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  Topic Review (Newest First)
05-26-2017 12:18 PM
B4_685
Quote:
Originally Posted by T-Jay View Post
I tore everything down this afternoon but left the motor assembly alone. Piston rings are fine. Nothing else looked worn or out of place either. So I cleaned everything and put it back together. Still leaks around the power cord for some reason but it's now making enough pressure to actuate the lockers. It's still not holding enough pressure to fill it's tank and be able to stop pumping. I guess I'll call it a partial victory for the time being. I think I'm going to buy a new one in the near future. I kinda like that twin compressor ARB is making now.

Attachment 3334073Attachment 3334081Attachment 3334065


Good job n thanks for posting pics


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05-26-2017 10:07 AM
T-Jay I tore everything down this afternoon but left the motor assembly alone. Piston rings are fine. Nothing else looked worn or out of place either. So I cleaned everything and put it back together. Still leaks around the power cord for some reason but it's now making enough pressure to actuate the lockers. It's still not holding enough pressure to fill it's tank and be able to stop pumping. I guess I'll call it a partial victory for the time being. I think I'm going to buy a new one in the near future. I kinda like that twin compressor ARB is making now.

Attachment 3334073Attachment 3334081Attachment 3334065
05-26-2017 02:13 AM
T-Jay
Quote:
Originally Posted by B4_685
Hmm im not sure that bit is supposed to be pressurized to be honest...how are the piston ring seals? When I pulled my unknown brand one recently, the seal had popped out of its groove and was sitting in the bottom of the assembly - had to modify the housing to get the 'big end' bearing off to be able to remove the piston to re-seat ring....pics for interest...oh and I flipped the reed valve cos it was ajar...maybe a simple fix for the ARB ? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Yea now that you mention it. It doesn't make sense that that part would be pressurized. I'll check the piston rings first and go from there. Thanks!
05-26-2017 01:00 AM
B4_685
ARB Compressor running but not pressurizing.

Hmm im not sure that bit is supposed to be pressurized to be honest...how are the piston ring seals? When I pulled my unknown brand one recently, the seal had popped out of its groove and was sitting in the bottom of the assembly - had to modify the housing to get the 'big end' bearing off to be able to remove the piston to re-seat ring....pics for interest...oh and I flipped the reed valve cos it was ajar...maybe a simple fix for the ARB ?



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05-26-2017 12:09 AM
T-Jay Well, my original leak is air tight now. But it looks like I chased it to the next weakest seal. https://youtu.be/Iawt2yu0TUU

These 2 little bolts that hold the assembly together have some sort of hard possibly factory sealant on them. Is that worth breaking to open this up or should I just try and goop up the leak from outside with RTV? I'm thinking I should pull the bolts and get in there.
Attachment 3333897 Being that it's after 2am ET back there in the States I figure I won't get any input on this until after I've done what I'm not 100% sure I should do but...what the hell. Live and learn. I'M GOING IN!
05-25-2017 08:23 AM
T-Jay
Quote:
Originally Posted by mrblaine
The white stuff is oxidation from high moisture content air being stored in the tank. Clean it off and put it back together or use some aluminum paint on the interior to slow down the oxidation. Never seen that and I've messed with a bunch of those compressors and am still using the one on my rig that I installed in 99. I do not live in a high humidity area though. If it isn't cut all the way through, just clean up the groove with a fine wire brush, clean up the end of the tank, load the groove with an even layer of a good silicone RTV sealant, install the o-ring, another thin layer of RTV on it, and then bolt it back together after you put a bit of anti-seize on the bolt. Let the RTV cure and that will keep it going for another 10 years. At least it did on mine when it started leaking at the tank seal.
Ha! Exactly what I did this afternoon. Aside from the aluminum paint. I was thinking of it in terms of a temporary fix until I can find a new gasket but if you think I can get another 10 years out of it I guess I'll leave it alone. ;-) I spliced in a harness clip I had laying around from an old light bar too. This one's got a water seal And spears to be a bit higher quality. The wire gauge was about the same. I'll keep an eye on it and see if it deforms any. Attachment 3332857 Attachment 3332865
05-25-2017 06:28 AM
mrblaine
Quote:
Originally Posted by T-Jay View Post
Found the leak! https://youtu.be/tR_Q-kozgzA

First time I've ever been inside a compressor. What a mess! Is this "normal" WTH is all this white powder about? It literally poured out when I separated the tank from the compressor. There was a ton of sealant smeared all over the lip of the tank as well. It's been like this for at least 7 years now. Apparently a PO rig job.
Attachment 3332593Attachment 3332601
Attachment 3332617
The white stuff is oxidation from high moisture content air being stored in the tank. Clean it off and put it back together or use some aluminum paint on the interior to slow down the oxidation.


Quote:
Also, the power connector was melted to the point that I broke it trying to separate the leads.
Attachment 3332625
Never seen that and I've messed with a bunch of those compressors and am still using the one on my rig that I installed in 99. I do not live in a high humidity area though.

Quote:
Does anybody know where to get this O-ring? I was able to find an exploded view of what looks to be my compressor and a part#(160212)
No sign of it on eBay though.

Attachment 3332577Attachment 3332585Attachment 3332657Attachment 3332665
If it isn't cut all the way through, just clean up the groove with a fine wire brush, clean up the end of the tank, load the groove with an even layer of a good silicone RTV sealant, install the o-ring, another thin layer of RTV on it, and then bolt it back together after you put a bit of anti-seize on the bolt. Let the RTV cure and that will keep it going for another 10 years. At least it did on mine when it started leaking at the tank seal.
05-25-2017 02:15 AM
B4_685
ARB Compressor running but not pressurizing.

Can't really say much about the powdery stuff but the melted connector plug is quite common for the ARB units - I've modified a couple - cut the small blade ends off and solder the wires/heatshrink: seems to be a design flaw. Lots of current during initial pump draw (when pressure switch cycles pump on/off) combined with ****ty low-current connector fittings cause the blades to over-heat. My .02 worth


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05-24-2017 11:58 PM
T-Jay Found the leak! https://youtu.be/tR_Q-kozgzA

First time I've ever been inside a compressor. What a mess! Is this "normal" WTH is all this white powder about? It literally poured out when I separated the tank from the compressor. There was a ton of sealant smeared all over the lip of the tank as well. It's been like this for at least 7 years now. Apparently a PO rig job.
Attachment 3332593Attachment 3332601
Attachment 3332617


Also, the power connector was melted to the point that I broke it trying to separate the leads.
Attachment 3332625

Does anybody know where to get this O-ring? I was able to find an exploded view of what looks to be my compressor and a part#(160212)
No sign of it on eBay though.

Attachment 3332577Attachment 3332585Attachment 3332657Attachment 3332665
05-24-2017 01:34 PM
oIIIIIooIIIIIo You can isolate the compressor. Remove the line where it leaves the tank and put a gauge on it. Just an inexpensive one will do. If you don't want to spend the few dollars just put a plug on it. Either way the compressor should work ok. Your auto parts store probably has a gauge setup you can barrow or they will test it.
Once you isolate the compressor and it is ok then it had to be the lines or fittings.


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05-24-2017 10:41 AM
LJ Dave Like Mr. Blaine said, spray it with soapy water and see where it's leaking. My old ARB compressor used to leak at the reservoir seal. Even after replacing the seal it would develop a leak there every season. I had good results getting it to completely seal up using some seal glide on the seal, but I had to take it apart and re-lube that seal every year.
05-24-2017 08:43 AM
budtoh3zo can you pull the line off right off the Air compressor and check for how much volume is moving there? if you got none right off the compressor its having issues if you have some just have to keep following it.
05-24-2017 07:56 AM
T-Jay
Quote:
Originally Posted by mrblaine
Turn it on, spray it with soapy water everywhere, then do the thumb thing. That will tell you if you have a leak at the tank, head, or some place that isn't allowing it to build pressure. It would be exceptionally rare for the compressor to just die.
Ok I'll give that a shot. Thanks.
05-24-2017 07:11 AM
mrblaine
Quote:
Originally Posted by T-Jay View Post
Maybe I wasn't clear enough in my description. I actually removed the rear locker air line from the solenoid fitting and let the compressor run with the rear locker switch actuated to see if I had air pressure at the fitting. There was very low air pressure there. I could barely feel it with my thumb over the opening in the solenoid fitting Almost none.

On the other hand, if I were to just let the compressor run and not actuate the locker switches, shouldn't the compressor tank fill up and shut itself off? That's what makes me think something is wrong with the compress itself.
Turn it on, spray it with soapy water everywhere, then do the thumb thing. That will tell you if you have a leak at the tank, head, or some place that isn't allowing it to build pressure. It would be exceptionally rare for the compressor to just die.
05-24-2017 06:56 AM
rikkards
Quote:
Originally Posted by T-Jay View Post
Maybe I wasn't clear enough in my description. I actually removed the rear locker air line from the solenoid fitting and let the compressor run with the rear locker switch actuated to see if I had air pressure at the fitting. There was very low air pressure there. I could barely feel it with my thumb over the opening in the solenoid fitting Almost none.

On the other hand, if I were to just let the compressor run and not actuate the locker switches, shouldn't the compressor tank fill up and shut itself off? That's what makes me think something is wrong with the compress itself.
Do you have a front locker, maybe the rear solenoid is blocked? If you have a front, see how it is behaving
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