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  Topic Review (Newest First)
07-20-2016 03:06 PM
RockyClymer When climbing hills towing I have found that keeping the RPMs between 3k and 4k by manually downshifting the auto, to really help the heating issue.
07-20-2016 02:56 PM
Originally Posted by BlueBabySound View Post
Personally once it hits 240 I get a little nervous.

Also, do you notice any coolant smell?
Yes that's where I pay close attention as well. We used to bring SBC in off the track at 240 - with cast iron heads!. It would "swelter" to 250 once turned off - but as long as restart (or continued run) brought it back down - never a problem. Its the "back down" part ya hafta watch lol.
And yep - coolant smell has usually been an early indication of "over"heat. High gauge - not so much a problem as long as it comes back down. BOTH high gauge and smell - that's a problem.
Also at issue is said "spike" - if that up and down is in like 30 seconds - maybe a sensor issue or t-stat problem. But if you mean spikes by the top of the hill - that's not so much a problem.

Agreed (and thanks for the info - I did not know where the display option was) - monitor and see what actual temps are.

One thing I've learned - steep grades make lots of heat - NEVER flat foot up hill under 2500RPM (ish) for more than a minute. If you need to stand to the floor to pull the grade - and cant make 3000RPM - downshift. Under 3000 RPM under full load there is not enough timing advance - the "late" fire in that case cranks exhaust heat WAY up - most goes out the pipe - but quite a bit does go to the coolant via the seat and guide - but if not enough the heat stays in the valve head and burns valves. I've seen burnt valves in RVs and light trucks, where coolant temp never exceeded 210 (I used 220 melting heat tabs and 240 darkening paint spots to observe coolant temp after the fact on ALL of my builds) - from pulling I8 to San Diego from El Centro flat footed. Electronic throttle is supposed to help that but if the PCM is backing off throttle for you - you already need to downshift.

I'm seeing Pioneer's Gas Engine tabs to be 255-260 at melt point - where a rebuilder warranty voids - and silver seal at 250-255 (both are the go-to for reman facilities).
07-20-2016 09:26 AM
BlueBabySound The menu button on the left side of your steering wheel will take you to "Vehicle info" I believe engine temp is the first one to pop up.
I suggest monitoring your engine temp and reporting back to us what temps you see. The JK tends to run warm, heavy modified JKs will run even warmer.
Our 2016 2 door hangs out 210 or below.
Our 2014 4 door is really heavy/modified, it hangs out 210-220. When towing I've got up to 240 before. Personally once it hits 240 I get a little nervous.
Also note that JKs have had a host of cooling issues in the last 4 years, casting sand, weak radiators, water pumps, etc.

So check on those temps and let us know.
Also, do you notice any coolant smell?
07-19-2016 05:16 PM
TwinMonsters I truly appreciate your feedbacks. I'm not much of a 'car' person so keeping that in mind, I can define overheating by observing the needle or numbers on the gauge going all-the-way to the max. I'm sure the mechanics I took my car to hooked-up the OBDii to read the temperatures, and other possible faulty codes which may possibly be popping up, but none of them actually gave me any concern as to why the gauge would spike up like that. Anyways, any advices are welcomed, I'm more than willing to try them out to see if this issue goes away for good.
07-19-2016 03:19 PM
RockyClymer When I tow with my 16 Rubi, temps can get up to 239/240 occasionally when climbing a steep grade, but usually run between 210 and 220. Not sure if this is considered overheating but I do watch it on the digital "menu" gauge under vehicle performance menu. Auto tranny stays between 165 and 170.
07-19-2016 01:13 PM
jwmbishop Not doubting your ability to determine a problem - but you never defined overheating. Gauge more than 3/4 to hot? we see that often under weight, load and throttle. These things can run 220 all day safely - even as high as 240 for short periods.

The computer controlled gauge does not really tell you anything but "normal" for conditions - so climbing a mountain normal 240 doesn't really move the gauge from where it was "normal" 210 driving flat across the valley!

If you can get an OBDii reader and verify actual temps, it may be reassuring - it may show that it IS overheating for conditional expectation...
07-16-2016 01:32 PM
Engine Overheating Issue

Hi Guys and Gals~.

I'm new to the forum and thank you admin for moving my thread to the correct section of the forum.

2015 JK Wrangler Rubi 3.6, 4dr lift-up
*Edited: I have approximately 800lbs. extra load to my Rubi due to modifications (wheels, tires, mounts, brackets, bars etc etc), please don't ask how I did it..

In consideration of the extra lbs.: I'm having an issue where the engine would start to overheat whenever I'm driving long distance (especially going up-hill). I'm from Nevada, and the heat during the summer here could get pretty intense. I've checked all components from several different mechanics, but nothing seems to be bad or needs replacing (other than the fact that my car carries around extra load). Has anyone else experienced their (heavy) Jeeps overheating like this? Any viable solutions (temporary/permanent)? Any advice will greatly help! Thanks.

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