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  Topic Review (Newest First)
Today 12:45 PM
wingless Cool video.

The Coast Guard should place No Wake Zone channel markers on that roadway...

My road is an island. When it rains the roadway becomes submerged, even though there are 2' drain pipes dumping into the canal. The water comes out those pipes horizontal, like a fire hose. The road is dry Ĺ hour after the rain stops. Typical FL weather...
Today 12:08 PM
Timo_90xj This is a fairly common place where the small river overflows onto the road after a longer period of heavy rain. We haven't gotten any snow in southernmost parts of Finland this winter, but we've had plenty of rainfall..

Anyways, washed the bottom of my Jeep on the way to grocery store On the way back, I wasn't surprised to find a vehicle stranded under the bridge - for some reason people try to drive through with passenger cars even though there's a half-gate with a "Deep water on road"- sign.
I pushed the vehicle out with my Jeep, mom and her daughter were thankful.
Water was about 2ft. deep at deepest, vehicle had already floated to a shallower spot when I arrived at the scene.




Today 10:48 AM
MaintMech
Quote:
Originally Posted by SmirkingOne View Post
Thanks Mr. Puddles, Timo_90XJ and Tomcorr for your input. I truly appreciate your insights.

To tell the truth I bought into what the parts store was selling about the Nord-Lock washers. It was a spur of the moment thing and I didn't do any real research on them. Glad I dropped a note here.

I really am less that impressed that the ARB mounts on the middle bar of the guard are tabs. Tabs suck for security. On my '84 Ramcharger I had welded some C channels with 90deg braces around the side brackets and over the bolt on the bottom. This restricts the access to more drastic means of removal and was more hidden because C mounting bracket welded to the guard tube. Not pretty but it seemed effective since the truck lived at the side of my house.

The JB Weld idea is interesting since I don't weld and I no longer have access to my friend who does. I may have to find another welder to help me out since I hate to pay for it if I can help it. Bartering FTW.

I did look at the YENA Offroad side mounts for the light-bar but the $189can is more than I'm willing to pay right now (other priorities). Also, I didn't like the look of the nut cover for the bottom and it seems a pain even if it was hidden.

::sigh:: I guess I will do a temporary mount until I can do more research. At least they will be connected so I can complete the wiring harness inside the rig.


Peace

You can put Locktite RED on the threads. That requires heating the nut to 300 DEG F to get it loose. Or put JB Weld on the threads, I doubt it it'll ever come off after that.
Yesterday 10:34 PM
Timo_90xj
Quote:
Originally Posted by AlamoJeeper View Post
A decent sized V8 is simpler.
You still loose the same percentage of power.. So a 300 horse v8 only is as slow as a 4.slow normally
Yesterday 10:09 PM
AlamoJeeper
Quote:
Originally Posted by Timo_90xj View Post
Superglue? JB weld? Bondo? ..oh, crap. It needs some sort of pipework, extra cooling and a tune as well
A decent sized V8 is simpler.
Yesterday 03:40 PM
SmirkingOne
This is why I posted it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Puddles View Post
I hate to bust your bubble but a Nord Lock is NOT an anti-theft device. Its just designed to hold tension in a high vibration environment.

If you want anti theft you need to consider other options. Factor 5 makes anti theft bolts but a they are only grade 5 I wouldnt trust them.

Depending on how its mounted you could also weld some flat stock over the bolt heads to prevent access.

Nothing is truly theft proof. You just need to find a way to make getting your winch less convenient than the guy down the street.



Thanks Mr. Puddles, Timo_90XJ and Tomcorr for your input. I truly appreciate your insights.

To tell the truth I bought into what the parts store was selling about the Nord-Lock washers. It was a spur of the moment thing and I didn't do any real research on them. Glad I dropped a note here.

I really am less that impressed that the ARB mounts on the middle bar of the guard are tabs. Tabs suck for security. On my '84 Ramcharger I had welded some C channels with 90deg braces around the side brackets and over the bolt on the bottom. This restricts the access to more drastic means of removal and was more hidden because C mounting bracket welded to the guard tube. Not pretty but it seemed effective since the truck lived at the side of my house.

The JB Weld idea is interesting since I don't weld and I no longer have access to my friend who does. I may have to find another welder to help me out since I hate to pay for it if I can help it. Bartering FTW.

I did look at the YENA Offroad side mounts for the light-bar but the $189can is more than I'm willing to pay right now (other priorities). Also, I didn't like the look of the nut cover for the bottom and it seems a pain even if it was hidden.

::sigh:: I guess I will do a temporary mount until I can do more research. At least they will be connected so I can complete the wiring harness inside the rig.


Peace
Yesterday 02:01 PM
Timo_90xj
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Puddles View Post
Wish it were that easy

Superglue? JB weld? Bondo? ..oh, crap. It needs some sort of pipework, extra cooling and a tune as well
Yesterday 01:12 PM
Mr. Puddles
Quote:
Originally Posted by Timo_90xj View Post
Slap a turbocharger on the engine, and altitude-related power losses are minimized almost completely
Wish it were that easy

Sent from my LM-V405 using Tapatalk
Yesterday 12:57 PM
Timo_90xj
Quote:
Originally Posted by AlamoJeeper View Post
In aviation, a rule of thumb is that one loses 3% of rated power per 1000 feet above sea level.

Slap a turbocharger on the engine, and altitude-related power losses are minimized almost completely
Yesterday 09:54 AM
nick613 Fitting the rear driveshaft after the 4.5" lift and 242 swap. Hows this look? Seems like I couldnt ask for more engagement. Should I push the rear axle back more? Do I need a boot for the driveshaft end? Driveshaft from a 249 with an internal slip yoke and new tcase is an external slip yoke 242

Sent from my LG-H812 using Tapatalk
02-15-2020 06:07 PM
AlamoJeeper
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1996maroonzjf View Post
The 4.0 ZJs have plenty of power when stock, near sea level and going downhill with a tailwind <img src="https://www.jeepforum.com/ubb/rotfl2.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Rolling on Floor Laughing" class="inlineimg" />

With oversized tires going up any grade above sea level is a challenge. You have to drive the 42RE like it’s a manual - dropping down in to second when necessary. With all the unsprung weight from the trussed 8.8 I have along with the IRO frame stiffeners - without the trailer the ZJ struggles even with 4.56 gears. Add to that a ~1500 - 2000 pound trailer that isn’t aerodynamic you get the picture. But it gets the job done.

I cannot wait until the stroker AX-15 are done and installed [IMG class=inlineimg]/forum/images/JeepForum_2016/smilies/tango_face_grin.png[/IMG]
In aviation, a rule of thumb is that one loses 3% of rated power per 1000 feet above sea level. That's due to fewer oxygen molecules per cubic foot of air. So, at Denver, you are down 15% on power. But wait, it gets worse. Temperature in a standard atmosphere is 59F at sea level less 3.5 F degrees per 1000 feet above sea level. So, standard temp at 5000 feet is
59F - (5000/1000 * 3.5F degrees) = 59F - 17.5 F = 41.5 F

If the temperature at 5000 feet is above 41.5F, the effective altitude (density altitude) is higher. On a 70F day, the density altitude at Denver (5,280 feet) is 7,359. That's a 25% power loss. That's before you start up I-70 towards the Eisenhower Tunnel at 11,000 feet.

Here is a link to a density altitude calculator.

http://www.pilotfriend.com/pilot_resources/density.htm

I generally use 29.92 for the altimeter setting, and a temp 20F less than the ambient temp for the dew point. That is based on 50% humidity.
02-15-2020 05:26 PM
Mr. Puddles



Bottle opener.

Sent from my LM-V405 using Tapatalk
02-15-2020 04:35 PM
Mr. Puddles

Stand by......

Sent from my LM-V405 using Tapatalk
02-15-2020 02:05 AM
Zilliver Replaced the clicking axle shaft, had a spare with narrow ABS tone ring, but it worked out great:


Lower one, is the bad clicking one. Also can see the wider tone ring.

Also replaced the idiotic 12-point OEM bearing bolts.


02-14-2020 10:48 PM
Tomcorr
Quote:
Originally Posted by SmirkingOne View Post
Just finished test mounting my Rigid 28Ē Inch Spot/Driving Combo LED and Hella 450 lights on my new ARB winch bumper. Instead of mounting the Hellaís under the bumper or cutting into the bumper I decided to use the far ends of the roller fairlead to mount them. Just a little higher than where I usually want them but not too bad. Now to paint the brackets black and finish wiring them.

Because I worry about people stealing them I am trying a new super lock washer called a Nord-Lock. Iím told that I had to be really, really sure I didnít want to remove the brackets before using them. Iím hoping they work as well they say. That being said I may only use them on the bases because I will want to be able to adjust them if they get bumped.

Next Project: Finish the secure vault under the back seat for my SAR radios and secondary fuse box. Brackets and mounting plate are done. Iíll post pics when complete.




NOT A THEFT PREVENTION DEVICE.

Nord-Lock washers secure bolts with tension instead of friction.
The system cannot loosen UNINTENTIONALLY as it creates a wedge-effect underneath the bolt head or nut.
The system comprises of a pair of wedge-lock washers with cams on one side and radial teeth on the opposite side.
In other words you can still unbolt it.
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