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  Topic Review (Newest First)
Today 06:17 PM
hilljacknm Took it out and enjoyed the day.....





Dang nice day.
Today 04:52 PM
BRBauer2 Drove the 4.0 40 minutes for an emission test that only took 4 minutes just to drive 40 minutes back home. Passed with flying colors.

Illinois now requires annual testing for cars over 20 years old, so probably going to register at my brother-in-law's place to avoid the hassle.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk
Today 01:18 PM
nhcd538 Pads and rotors at all four corners. E-brakes were good so I left them alone (except for a little lubrication). Tightened up the driver's side unit bearing that was LOOSE. Installed new steering stabilizer. Repaired passenger rear wheel speed sensor.

Spring is coming!
Yesterday 07:35 PM
hilljacknm Changed the fluid in the transfer case. What came out looked like a mix of gear oil and trans fluid.


Transfer case seems easier to shift into 4lo.
Yesterday 12:45 PM
wingless Cool video.

The Coast Guard should place No Wake Zone channel markers on that roadway...

My road is an island. When it rains the roadway becomes submerged, even though there are 2' drain pipes dumping into the canal. The water comes out those pipes horizontal, like a fire hose. The road is dry hour after the rain stops. Typical FL weather...
Yesterday 12:08 PM
Timo_90xj This is a fairly common place where the small river overflows onto the road after a longer period of heavy rain. We haven't gotten any snow in southernmost parts of Finland this winter, but we've had plenty of rainfall..

Anyways, washed the bottom of my Jeep on the way to grocery store On the way back, I wasn't surprised to find a vehicle stranded under the bridge - for some reason people try to drive through with passenger cars even though there's a half-gate with a "Deep water on road"- sign.
I pushed the vehicle out with my Jeep, mom and her daughter were thankful.
Water was about 2ft. deep at deepest, vehicle had already floated to a shallower spot when I arrived at the scene.




Yesterday 10:48 AM
MaintMech
Quote:
Originally Posted by SmirkingOne View Post
Thanks Mr. Puddles, Timo_90XJ and Tomcorr for your input. I truly appreciate your insights.

To tell the truth I bought into what the parts store was selling about the Nord-Lock washers. It was a spur of the moment thing and I didn't do any real research on them. Glad I dropped a note here.

I really am less that impressed that the ARB mounts on the middle bar of the guard are tabs. Tabs suck for security. On my '84 Ramcharger I had welded some C channels with 90deg braces around the side brackets and over the bolt on the bottom. This restricts the access to more drastic means of removal and was more hidden because C mounting bracket welded to the guard tube. Not pretty but it seemed effective since the truck lived at the side of my house.

The JB Weld idea is interesting since I don't weld and I no longer have access to my friend who does. I may have to find another welder to help me out since I hate to pay for it if I can help it. Bartering FTW.

I did look at the YENA Offroad side mounts for the light-bar but the $189can is more than I'm willing to pay right now (other priorities). Also, I didn't like the look of the nut cover for the bottom and it seems a pain even if it was hidden.

::sigh:: I guess I will do a temporary mount until I can do more research. At least they will be connected so I can complete the wiring harness inside the rig.


Peace

You can put Locktite RED on the threads. That requires heating the nut to 300 DEG F to get it loose. Or put JB Weld on the threads, I doubt it it'll ever come off after that.
02-16-2020 10:34 PM
Timo_90xj
Quote:
Originally Posted by AlamoJeeper View Post
A decent sized V8 is simpler.
You still loose the same percentage of power.. So a 300 horse v8 only is as slow as a 4.slow normally
02-16-2020 10:09 PM
AlamoJeeper
Quote:
Originally Posted by Timo_90xj View Post
Superglue? JB weld? Bondo? ..oh, crap. It needs some sort of pipework, extra cooling and a tune as well
A decent sized V8 is simpler.
02-16-2020 03:40 PM
SmirkingOne
This is why I posted it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Puddles View Post
I hate to bust your bubble but a Nord Lock is NOT an anti-theft device. Its just designed to hold tension in a high vibration environment.

If you want anti theft you need to consider other options. Factor 5 makes anti theft bolts but a they are only grade 5 I wouldnt trust them.

Depending on how its mounted you could also weld some flat stock over the bolt heads to prevent access.

Nothing is truly theft proof. You just need to find a way to make getting your winch less convenient than the guy down the street.



Thanks Mr. Puddles, Timo_90XJ and Tomcorr for your input. I truly appreciate your insights.

To tell the truth I bought into what the parts store was selling about the Nord-Lock washers. It was a spur of the moment thing and I didn't do any real research on them. Glad I dropped a note here.

I really am less that impressed that the ARB mounts on the middle bar of the guard are tabs. Tabs suck for security. On my '84 Ramcharger I had welded some C channels with 90deg braces around the side brackets and over the bolt on the bottom. This restricts the access to more drastic means of removal and was more hidden because C mounting bracket welded to the guard tube. Not pretty but it seemed effective since the truck lived at the side of my house.

The JB Weld idea is interesting since I don't weld and I no longer have access to my friend who does. I may have to find another welder to help me out since I hate to pay for it if I can help it. Bartering FTW.

I did look at the YENA Offroad side mounts for the light-bar but the $189can is more than I'm willing to pay right now (other priorities). Also, I didn't like the look of the nut cover for the bottom and it seems a pain even if it was hidden.

::sigh:: I guess I will do a temporary mount until I can do more research. At least they will be connected so I can complete the wiring harness inside the rig.


Peace
02-16-2020 02:01 PM
Timo_90xj
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Puddles View Post
Wish it were that easy

Superglue? JB weld? Bondo? ..oh, crap. It needs some sort of pipework, extra cooling and a tune as well
02-16-2020 01:12 PM
Mr. Puddles
Quote:
Originally Posted by Timo_90xj View Post
Slap a turbocharger on the engine, and altitude-related power losses are minimized almost completely
Wish it were that easy

Sent from my LM-V405 using Tapatalk
02-16-2020 12:57 PM
Timo_90xj
Quote:
Originally Posted by AlamoJeeper View Post
In aviation, a rule of thumb is that one loses 3% of rated power per 1000 feet above sea level.

Slap a turbocharger on the engine, and altitude-related power losses are minimized almost completely
02-16-2020 09:54 AM
nick613 Fitting the rear driveshaft after the 4.5" lift and 242 swap. Hows this look? Seems like I couldnt ask for more engagement. Should I push the rear axle back more? Do I need a boot for the driveshaft end? Driveshaft from a 249 with an internal slip yoke and new tcase is an external slip yoke 242

Sent from my LG-H812 using Tapatalk
02-15-2020 06:07 PM
AlamoJeeper
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1996maroonzjf View Post
The 4.0 ZJs have plenty of power when stock, near sea level and going downhill with a tailwind <img src="https://www.jeepforum.com/ubb/rotfl2.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Rolling on Floor Laughing" class="inlineimg" />

With oversized tires going up any grade above sea level is a challenge. You have to drive the 42RE like it’s a manual - dropping down in to second when necessary. With all the unsprung weight from the trussed 8.8 I have along with the IRO frame stiffeners - without the trailer the ZJ struggles even with 4.56 gears. Add to that a ~1500 - 2000 pound trailer that isn’t aerodynamic you get the picture. But it gets the job done.

I cannot wait until the stroker AX-15 are done and installed [IMG class=inlineimg]/forum/images/JeepForum_2016/smilies/tango_face_grin.png[/IMG]
In aviation, a rule of thumb is that one loses 3% of rated power per 1000 feet above sea level. That's due to fewer oxygen molecules per cubic foot of air. So, at Denver, you are down 15% on power. But wait, it gets worse. Temperature in a standard atmosphere is 59F at sea level less 3.5 F degrees per 1000 feet above sea level. So, standard temp at 5000 feet is
59F - (5000/1000 * 3.5F degrees) = 59F - 17.5 F = 41.5 F

If the temperature at 5000 feet is above 41.5F, the effective altitude (density altitude) is higher. On a 70F day, the density altitude at Denver (5,280 feet) is 7,359. That's a 25% power loss. That's before you start up I-70 towards the Eisenhower Tunnel at 11,000 feet.

Here is a link to a density altitude calculator.

http://www.pilotfriend.com/pilot_resources/density.htm

I generally use 29.92 for the altimeter setting, and a temp 20F less than the ambient temp for the dew point. That is based on 50% humidity.
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