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  Topic Review (Newest First)
01-07-2019 07:21 AM
ChrisHager The best bet to avoid DW is to ensure your TREs and control arm bushings are in good order and that everything is tight. If you have issues, start going through it with a fine tooth comb!
01-06-2019 09:26 AM
fhunziker About to have the OME HD package from Kolak installed on my 2001 WJ and this thread has been very interesting. Did you ever cure your DW issues?
10-23-2018 08:32 AM
Oswaldo71 following
04-03-2018 09:59 AM
RobGADV Phew! I've now read this entire thread and am caught up. Great info!!
03-03-2018 08:30 AM
rmirandalazala I was thinking the same thing, Almost run to my shop to flip my JKS Track Bar!! LOL
02-18-2016 07:34 AM
ChrisHager Glad it worked out for you!

02-18-2016 07:21 AM
VestaviaPirate 2 days after your fix, and the batt voltage isn't jumping around (gauge jumped all over before, I suspect due to the arching and gap between the old clamps and batt terminals). I now have piece of mind that the problem is fixed, and more importantly, in the future if something needs to be changed/fixed this provides a more modular setup, where I can easily change out one part, instead of the entire harness.

Now on to the next problem! Thanks again!
02-16-2016 10:19 AM
ChrisHager I'd go with rosin core.
02-16-2016 09:41 AM
VestaviaPirate
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisHager View Post
Grab yourself a roll of something like this. What's pictured is lead free, whereas 60/40 is 60% Tin, 40% Lead. Either will work for your purpose.
Assume you mean rosin core, and not acid core? Or is it negligible? Thanks for all the help! I appreciate it.
02-16-2016 08:40 AM
ChrisHager
Quote:
Originally Posted by VestaviaPirate View Post
Sorry for the noob question, but the solder lugs were the copper things the cables went in to, right?
No, you'll need those. On a couple of my soldered joints, instead of using solder via a roll, I used solder lugs (slugs, pellets, etc.), pictured below. A roll of solder is all you need. Solder lugs can be tough to find and ultimately do the same thing as flux and a roll of solder.



Quote:
Originally Posted by VestaviaPirate View Post
You would use a roll of 60/40? Not sure I know what you mean.
Grab yourself a roll of something like this. What's pictured is lead free, whereas 60/40 is 60% Tin, 40% Lead. Either will work for your purpose.

02-16-2016 08:09 AM
VestaviaPirate
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisHager View Post
The second time around, I would skip using solder lugs. They weren't worth the hassle. Instead, a roll of 60/40 should suit you well.
Sorry for the noob question, but the solder lugs were the copper things the cables went in to, right?

You would use a roll of 60/40? Not sure I know what you mean.
02-16-2016 07:42 AM
ChrisHager I think I used 60/40 rosin core solder. The second time around, I would skip using solder lugs. They weren't worth the hassle. Instead, a roll of 60/40 should suit you well.
02-16-2016 07:27 AM
VestaviaPirate
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mattyjm View Post
I just did this repair this morning with complete success. The original thread was for ChrisHager's write-up on the marine battery connectors. This mod took me a little over an hour, but I wasn't in a rush. I wanted to take my time and be thorough, and I was. You couldn't imagine my sense of relief when I pulled hard on those lugs and found that I'd done a good job on the soldering. Besides a spark-plug airplane back in metal shop class(25 years ago), this is the first thing I've actually soldered since. I sprayed the connectors and terminals with corrosion inhibitor, and I also picked up lock nuts instead of using the wing nuts. The wingers are probably fine, but I spent the little extra for some peace-of-mind.

ChrisHager, thanks for the thread and answering some of my questions the other day. Like you, I'm just here to help out....LOL!
Question, have a bad OEM battery terminal connector; bolt spins, hard as heck to tighten, and have already shaved the gap down to increase tightness once... So I'm going to try the ChrisHager battery cable fix.

What type of solder do you recommend? I found all the parts you recommended, thank goodness, but still need flux, solder, heat shrink & a torch.

Is there anything, in hindsight, that anyone or you would have done differently? I've read all the related posts in this thread, so I picked up all those tips and tricks, esp. using a helping hand; just wanted to know if there are things that you are now experiencing with this fix that you could of avoided.

Thanks for the guidance!
01-30-2016 04:08 PM
ChrisHager Glad it worked out for you!

01-30-2016 12:38 PM
Mattyjm I just did this repair this morning with complete success. The original thread was for ChrisHager's write-up on the marine battery connectors. This mod took me a little over an hour, but I wasn't in a rush. I wanted to take my time and be thorough, and I was. You couldn't imagine my sense of relief when I pulled hard on those lugs and found that I'd done a good job on the soldering. Besides a spark-plug airplane back in metal shop class(25 years ago), this is the first thing I've actually soldered since. I sprayed the connectors and terminals with corrosion inhibitor, and I also picked up lock nuts instead of using the wing nuts. The wingers are probably fine, but I spent the little extra for some peace-of-mind.

ChrisHager, thanks for the thread and answering some of my questions the other day. Like you, I'm just here to help out....LOL!
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