It is my understanding that some of the block and radiator sealers require oxygen or atmosphere as they seep out so to cure properly. Not sure 100% but if you use JBweld and it does it's job the other sealer is not going to know what to fix. I would use the block sealer first the crack will be there if it doesn't work.
RN

Thanks! Ever since I broke mine, a lot of people have been saying the same thing.

Ever try the HD output?


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Nice video. I can’t tell you how many Dana 20 transfer cases I’ve gone through. I’m sure it’s in the double digits.

John and jeepfeller, I'm going to COMBINE both your ideas...jb weld and the "cubes". This is my "moon shot" to try and save this engine. Otherwise I'm I deep doo too. Thanks for the ideas.

I knew you would work out the clutch adjustment. I can’t tell you how many times I have rolled into the staging lanes for the first round of eliminations, having just made an adjustment, chasing something or another, hoping it works when I launch on the first pass that counts. Congrats!

Cleaned it up. Want to claybar and wax it, but a wash will do for now.

Test and tune yesterday, Race today. It’s launching good but having trouble getting into high gear. Still adjusting clutch linkage. I’ve not had this issue in the past, but I will figure it out.

1997ish

Had Willy's ('46 Willys) block and crank machined, as well as a valve job. It was a flathead L-134.

When I went to pick it up, another feller who worked in the shop made a sickening discovery on the block.

It was really barely even noticeable being freshly cooked out of the oven. The idea of magni-fluxing it was never considered prior to any work being done (said to have not been a norm for this ancient engine)

After some consulting with the boss over the phone, we all agreed that I'd give it a shot for half price (if it was a no go, I'd be refunded), or if I brought in another block they would machine it for a reduced price.

At the time, I did not have another block.

Being like new, they told me to crumble these 3 (re-builder's blocks) up and put them in the radiator right off the bat.

Should it continue to drip after some time, we would try 2 more.

Well. right off the bat, I had some really slight seeping, like damp but no dripping.

It became less and less and by my 1st 2000 mile oil change, it was dry!

In my pic, the paint is gone around it here and there, if this is micro-seepage, it is evaporated every time I look over there, I never notice coolant loss in quantity, all of it seems normal to me.

Its been 23 years now, I drive him a lot and I have not needed the 2 more, its like it is rusted shut! (but the water jacket coolant has always been clear)

All I recall is "Rebuilder's cubes", they were black and maybe 1/2" x 1/2" x 1" and crumbled similar to dense charcoal, the closest similar item I found online was this.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/na...xoCncMQAvD_BwE

Maybe a auto machine shop near you will know and have them.

---JEEPFELLER