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  Topic Review (Newest First)
08-30-2016 09:28 PM
Trevlaw If anyone is curious as to how all my plans are playing out I started an actual build thread a little while ago.

https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/w...build-3837569/

Thanks for everyone's help on working out most of the wrinkles in my plan and steering me towards the rear axle upgrade before the suspension
08-02-2016 12:26 PM
Trevlaw
Quote:
Originally Posted by joe_jeep View Post
for 33s, that set up should be golden.
My thoughts exactly. Just need to work on the suspension and a tummy tuck. Drivetrain should be good
08-02-2016 12:08 PM
joe_jeep for 33s, that set up should be golden.
08-02-2016 12:03 PM
Trevlaw
Quote:
Originally Posted by Deacon View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ben View Post
If suspension is your only concern, your plan seems sound, it's just a very expensive list that leaves you open/open on a D35.
Best comment/point in the whole thread.
Hahahaha I guess you missed a little. I'm on 33s with an 8.8 with an artec truss in the rear with a very tight rebuilt Trac lok and just finished putting a true Trac in my Dana 30. Not planning on bigger than 33s so the rear should be fine and I'll probably put chromo shafts up front eventually. I built the axle to handle tires and eventually will go selectable in the rear.

Now I'm moving on to the suspension. I actually did listen to everyone's advice early on lol
08-02-2016 11:07 AM
Deacon
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ben View Post
If suspension is your only concern, your plan seems sound, it's just a very expensive list that leaves you open/open on a D35.
Best comment/point in the whole thread.
08-01-2016 10:37 PM
Trevlaw
Quote:
Originally Posted by jjvw View Post
Who needs a factory air box?!

You know this, but at some extended shock length the shock body begins to hit things as the control arms walk under the frame and as the axle articulates at higher degrees. That is one reason why wider axles are useful in these endeavours.
Yeah, hopefully I can lower the front mounts off to the side of the bar pin mount between it and the wheel. With the can mounted on top I don't think it'd be too hard to make the shaft clear stuff. The width of the upper mount is a concern for sure. I saw some absolutely awesome extended front upper shock mounts made by Mudb8 in a thread a while back that word work amazingly, but I PM'ed him once and he responded once, then I never heard back. He's local to me too, I'd love to get those mounts...

I'm planning on getting the mid arm kit assuming its not outrageously out of my budget, so that should help keep the axle from walking under the Jeep. Depending on what shocks I go with, I may have slightly more up travel than down, which would also help with this and spring unseating.
08-01-2016 10:33 PM
jjvw Who needs a factory air box?!

You know this, but at some extended shock length the shock body begins to hit things as the control arms walk under the frame and as the axle articulates to higher degrees. That is one reason why wider axles are useful in these endeavours. I know you are looking at longer arms to help reach those last couple inches.
08-01-2016 10:13 PM
Trevlaw
Quote:
Originally Posted by jjvw View Post
The important part is that you found it.

FWIW, I recently discovered that the drag link joint where it connects to the tie rod will hit the axle side passenger sway bar mount at full droop if you try to turn right. Took me two years to find that one.

Regarding your long shocks, how high up can you raise the upper mounts (front and rear) before the body gets in the way? That's a question I'm pondering right now. The answer you are comfortable with will help determine how much travel you can add.
I'll have to check that drag link joint sometime soon.

From looking at the inner fender with my 1.25" BL I feel pretty confident that I can hack off the top of the factory mount and weld in a ford mount with an eyelet mount about 4" higher than the factory one. I think the more rearward side of the inner fender may need to be hit with a hammer to clearance it to allow a bolt to be put through the ford mount, but that shouldn't be too hard. A lot of the threads I have found have broken links for pictures, but they say they were able to raise the upper mount about 4"

I have also thought about extending it through the fender under the hood. Wouldn't be too hard, but the factory air box is in the way
08-01-2016 09:59 PM
jjvw The important part is that you found it.

FWIW, I recently discovered that the drag link joint where it connects to the tie rod will hit the axle side passenger sway bar mount at full droop if you try to turn right. Took me two years to find that one.

Regarding your long shocks, how high up can you raise the upper mounts (front and rear) before the body gets in the way? That's a question I'm pondering right now. The answer you are comfortable with will help determine how much travel you can add.
08-01-2016 09:21 PM
Trevlaw
Quote:
Originally Posted by jjvw View Post
Is the frame entirely elevated on jack stands? I only see one. Is opposite side hanging at full shock extension.

The shocks and BB aren't your limit. It's the 33" tires at full flex that will scrape the fenders.

Our front ends are too similar to be that different. My bumps are about as short as they can be.

For what you are planning, you need to make sure you can correctly identify your interferences. Again, something isn't adding up or I'm not seeing something on yours.
Well, jjvw I'd like to apologize for coming across as a jerk. You were right about the tires not clearing. When I had my front end torn apart today I did put the passenger side to full droop and try to stuff the drivers side tire again and it rubs the inner fender where the flare bolts to the body. I was too lazy to cut the extensions down, so I threw in my old 1.5" BS extensions from the BB kit and they now stuff with very minimal rubbing on the flares and won't damage anything. You were right about the clearances with tires, but I'm not gonna toy with it anymore, just leave it as is since hopefully I'll be changing a lot of it soon.

I did also pull both springs and tires and put it to complete factory bump before I put in the extensions and everything cleared, no interference with the steering or the new ZJ tie rod. With the 1.25" BL the 33's are pretty close to clearing the fenders at full factory bump, so I'm going to see if I could modify them at all or maybe see if just flat fenders, not highlines, could give me enough clearance or just allow them to rub a tiny bit without hurting anything.

Still planning on pushing forward with the shock mount ideas, I don't see why I can't fit 12" shocks underneath there or maybe even longer ones. Maybe some 14's or 15's
07-24-2016 11:01 AM
Trevlaw Here are some pictures I took yesterday with the driver's side at full bump and the passenger side drooped a little over 2" of my 4" possible down travel right now.
07-24-2016 10:55 AM
Trevlaw
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironhead View Post
i believe your frame will be the limiting factor. but i have not done this myself.

i would think your steering would contact the passenger frame rail when stuffing the passenger side and drooping the drivers side, if you did get to 7.5" of uptravel.
Even if it is the stock drag link and a ZJ tie rod? I know the tie rod will be bigger than stock, but even though it is 7.5" of up travel, it would still be reaching only the factory bump. Would the Jeep not have been built to withstand full bump on either side with stock steering from the factory? It just seems like if there was interference like that with the stock setup at full bump, they would've changed something or extended the factory BS lengths to avoid the interference
07-24-2016 10:50 AM
Ironhead i believe your frame will be the limiting factor. but i have not done this myself.

i would think your steering would contact the passenger frame rail when stuffing the passenger side and drooping the drivers side, if you did get to 7.5" of uptravel.
07-24-2016 10:45 AM
Trevlaw Does it not make sense that right now at 1" lift over stock I have about 5" up travel, if I were to go to 3.5" lift over stock and have the same tires and no BS extension that I'd have the possibility for 7.5" of up travel?
07-24-2016 10:36 AM
Trevlaw
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironhead View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Trevlaw View Post
I know it seems really high, but I don't know what I'm missing. I feel like there's something really obvious. Right now I can stuff the 33s and factory bump, the steering doesn't interfere at factory bump, and the MC track bar I want to run is also supposed to clear at full bump. What am I missing
how much uptravel do you currently have?

did you check clearances with the coils removed?
About 4.5" to 5" uptravel. I removed the drivers side and dropped the the passenger side as much as I could manage in my tight garage. Maybe I missed something, but right now everything is stock up front except the BB, tires and shocks. I believe the bend in the ZJ tie rod will give me a tad more clearance and I've seen pictures of the MC track bar at full bump with the ZJ tie rod and it cleared
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