Hello Bizignano,
First off, it would help us if you filled out your Jeep's profile info so we know what's been done to your Jeep. With that said, I've been thru the death wobble battle three times with my LJ now and here is what my experiences have taught me:
- If the Jeep is your daily driver and death wobble has be on-going for more than a week expect to discover/correct/replace more than a single part. All DW needs is a single weak point to start it's work but once it starts throwing your Jeep all over the road, other parts start wearing down or loosening FAST. Especially if it's mostly OEM parts under your Jeep.
- It is never the steering stabilizer (for cause of or as a fix for DW)! Some even go as far as running without a stabilizer all the time. Also, from anecdotal evidence on this forum, it seems it is never the pitman arm either. As I understand it, the only need for a drop pitman is to reposition your drag-link so its angle runs parallel with your track bar to correct bump steer in high lift applications (I have a 4" lift and don't need a drop pitman). The pitman arm will never correct or cause DW directly. Now if you had a bump steer issue which was providing the required input for a DW cycle then changing out the pitman would be PART of the fix.
- Replace your balljoints. I did several "dry steering tests" and shook the sh*t out of my front rims/tires while up on a jack to "test" for looseness in the balljoints and they were rock solid. In a fit of desperation I replaced them anyway and discovered both lower balljoints were completely shot. The upper balljoints must have been holding the knuckles well enough in place to mask the lower balljoint failures when I shook the tires. If you replace these yourself, do your sanity a favor and buy this
Jeep adapter for use with a balljoint press tool.
- Consider temporarily removing your front drive shaft. My stock shaft was extremely out of balance and was causing an intense vibration up front above 50mph. This is my first Jeep so I didn't realize this was abnormal until I removed it. This intense vibration wasn't doing the suspension components up front any service in their fight to prevent DW. Removing the shaft eliminated one variable in the equation.
- Check your upper and lower control arm bushing CLOSELY. My Jeep came from California and then lived 10 years in North Dakota. I can tell you the stock OEM rubber bushings in the control arms were WELL past their useful life when I got around to replacing them. By the sounds of it, you have a new lift kit and may have already replaced these bushings.
- I see that you just got your tires balanced but was it done on a "road force balancing" machine? It's about 4x the cost but I would say necessary when dealing with our large tires (other may disagree). These are $30,000 machines so call around, not every garage has them. If the service station you speak to doesn't immediately know whether their machine is a road force machine, it isn't. In my experience, stations that don't have this capability will play dumb or try to sell you on the regular balance service they can provide while downplaying what they can't do (the "Sell What's in Stock" motto). Don't be undersold here. In my latest round with DW, I had my tires road-force balanced for the first time ever and I'm putting all other troubleshooting on hold as my intense pre-DW has completely vanished (I'm not so naive as to believe it is gone however). As an aside, when I bought my Duratrac Wrangler tires the shop that installed them could NOT get them balanced on their regular tire balance machine. Instead, they threw CounterAct BBs into each tire and called it good. It was not good...
- Get a good torque wrench and hit every bolt related to your front suspension. The Factory Service Manual comes in handy but here are some numbers to get you started. They are referenced for my '05 LJ Rubicon with SavvyOffroad upgraded parts but should get you close:
Front Torque Specs
Front Lower C.A.s: 60ft-lbs
Front Upper C.A.s: 130ft-lbs
Front Track Bar Upper Bolt: 125ft-lbs
Front Track Bar Lower Bolt: 50ft-lbs
Front Sway Bar: 45ft-lbs
Front Shock Upper Bolts: 17ft-lbs
Front Shock Lower Bolts: 21ft-lbs
Drag-Link & Tie-Rod Castle Nuts: 55ft-lbs
Steering Stabilizer (Damper): 55ft-lbs
Pitman Arm: 185ft-lbs
Steering Gearbox Frame Mounts: 70ft-lbs
Front Driveshaft Diff Side: 14ft-lbs
Front Driveshaft T-Case Side: 20ft-lbs
Skid plate bolts: 55ft-lbs
So in summary, replace your ball joints, get your tires road-force balanced, inspect your control arm bushings, torque everything and do a "dry steering test" if you haven't already. If you are still at a loss and need professional help, don't let anyone work on your Jeep that can't explain to you on their own what "death wobble" or "bump steer" is. Also, if any part of their answer contains the words "steering stabilizer" or "drop pitman" I'd walk away. I've found this to be a good strategy when finding local garages to work on my Jeep.
Good luck!