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  Topic Review (Newest First)
06-13-2021 03:52 PM
73pumpkin I have not posted on my thread for a very, very, long time. The pumpkin is still mine and still running. I have not done much to it in a while. I am building a garage to put more modern axles from a 78 under it. If any of the old gang still reads this forum, feel free to stop in and say"Hi." I'll probably monitor it regularly for a while now.
03-06-2016 10:38 AM
73pumpkin Well the wag is home with the new engine. I have question right off of the bat. I had some issues to begin with, most of which I think that I have cured. I still think I have problem of vapor lock that I did not have before. The engine has an Edelbrock Performer intake on it with a 1406 four barrel. The fuel line now has a rubber line that runs from the filter around to the passenger side of the new carborator. After the engine warms a bit, it will not start. If I pull the hose off, either up stream or downstream of the filter, with the engine off of course, gas and vapor blasts out. then the engine will start. I have read some of the posts on vapor locking and plan to try some of those solutions. my question is; my engine swap and intake/ carb conversion seem to be a common event, has anyone else out there experienced a similar problem? If so, what were their solutions?
02-26-2016 07:31 PM
73pumpkin Yes 4 door 77 Cherokee. It looks just like a plane jane version of my waggy except it says cherokee on the title and on the side emblems. Currently, the engine from the 77 has been rebuilt with an edelbrock 4 barrel and intake and is awaiting being swapped out into the 73 waggy any day now. the 77 is about 3/4 stripped down to parts.
02-25-2016 03:35 PM
say what?

77 4-door cherokee?
01-03-2015 06:00 PM
73pumpkin It has been a long time since I posted anything so I'll catch things up. I have replaced the rotten metal gas tank with a plastic one and shielded it with heavy sheetmetal. I have replaced the radiator and heater cores with new ones. put a new sending unit in the gas tank when I replaced it so the gauge works now. I just bought a 77 4 door Cherokee for the engine and it has front lockout hubs with disc brakes. It also has a manual transmission which I wish my waggy had, but I have already had the tranny rebuilt. Changing over would be a lot of work. Anyway, that is the latest news.
05-22-2014 09:06 PM
73pumpkin thanks Mark. Looks like you have a better start than the rest of us.
05-22-2014 09:05 PM
73pumpkin So... I'm going to look at a 78 wagoner tomorrow with quadratrack. I am mostly looking for an engine to rebuild and a gas tank. Marn has pointed out the offset between a QT and a regular transfer case. Has anyone out there swapped QT axles into a regular d-20 transfer case setup? how did it work out? Did the universals and drive shafts interchange? How about converting the front axles to lockers- was that expensive or difficult? I like the options of heavier axles and the disc brakes of course.
05-22-2014 11:12 AM
MarkPribanic Great thread! I have a lot to learn about my 1973 Jeep, lol! Love the color too!
05-08-2014 07:11 AM
73pumpkin Some of the rebuild kits on ebay have what appear to be sleeves or bushings in them other than the pressure spring and valve piston. Do you know what these could be for?
05-08-2014 12:30 AM
super98lsc Yes it should pull straight down. Keep in mind it's keyed into the distributor like a flat head screw driver so just be gentle putting it all back in to get it lined up.
05-07-2014 05:29 PM
73pumpkin That is all Excellent information! Can I pull the other gear straight down out of the oil pump housing and then just shove the new one and shaft back up in? This would be an easy improvement well worth a try.
05-06-2014 08:00 PM
super98lsc The oil pump is really easy to rebuild the gear that fell out is one of the two. The kit is just a gasket and the long gear/shaft driven off the bottom of the distributor and a new pressure valve and spring. The oil is actually getting thinner as it heats up. Some pressure will reduce in all engines as this warming happens. The thing that reduces pressure the most in an older engine is wear in the bearings. The plate on the bottom of the pump can wear and also cause some oil to internally bypass within the pump housing itself same for the case itself surrounding the gears. I flat machined my bottom plate and installed a rebuild kit. My timing cover was in good shape. I think you can use a feeler gauge to check the gear to case clearance for wear? Bulltear makes new ones. The thicker oil should help it remain at a higher pressure when warmed up. Rings won't really come into play for pressure but will cause white smoke and oil consumption, fouled plugs etc if they are excessively worn. Even at 167k miles mine were still in great shape as were the bores. The only wear I found in mine when I tore it down was in the rod bearings and minor wear in the cam bearings the main bearings were all still in great shape. Rule of thumb for an engine is 10 psi of pressure per 1000 rpm. So 10 psi at 1k rpm is fine to live as long as you have [email protected]
05-06-2014 05:58 PM
73pumpkin Thanks 1999WJ. I recently had the front and rear seals replaced and gunk should have been flushed out of the pan then. I have looked at the Chilton blow up diagram on the pump. I had the lower end with the oil filter off and the secondary gear dropped out in my hand. I couldn't se a difference from top to bottom, so I stuffed it back in. Is there a difference? Can you rebuild that pump without pulling the timing chain cover, waterpump, etc? I saw the rebuild kits on ebay and there wasn't much to them. I saw the 20-50 oil at the parts store and plan to try it. I did pull the cap on the pressure relief spring, pull it out and put it back. No goodies fell out like the piston valve that is supposed to be up there. Should it have dropped out easily? I should mention that I have 55 lbs on initial start up, but it soon drops down after the engine develops a little heat. In my limited mechanical understanding, this sounds like cylinders expanding and rings loosening. I dumped the barr leak engine restorer in it last night and ran it for five minutes. It is raining like crazy tonight. When the weather improve, I need to slap a little more fiberglass on a gas tank seep while the tank is dry and then I dump some gas in it and see if the pressure improves over the next couple of hundred miles.
05-06-2014 11:49 AM
super98lsc Didn't read but if it is the amc v8 you may try rebuilding the oil pump and removing the pan to see how much crap is stuck up into the pickup. I did both on my 160k mile 360 and got 25 hot idle and 55psi at 2200 rpm solid. Also can run a 20w50 oil however the thicker oils can force the pressure relief spring in the oil pump to release pressure thus lowering it. I also flushed the xxx out of it for 2 full changes with marvel mystery and some seafoam. De gunked the lifters and oil passages, solved a nasty valve tap it had.
05-05-2014 05:33 PM
73pumpkin I expected as much. that's what happens when you take on 40 year old vehicle projects. I bought some Bars leak stuff today that has two components in a fancy compound bottle. This will be a classic test for the stuff. If it gains me five pounds of pressure on this old engine, I'll be impressed. I could use more of course, but there is no substitute for a rebuild.
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