|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|05-15-2015 08:49 AM|
Here is my attempt to modify the rear track bar and add some adjustment to it. I used two solid core 1" square tubes about 2.5" long, drilled and threaded the center, inserted and welded the assembly. The shortest length of the track bar is the stock length and you adjust upwards from there.
|05-11-2015 03:06 PM|
I measured the outside of the tire to the outer fender well in the same spot on both sides. Low tech but it worked, I was surprised it only needed 3/8" lengthening.
Also for any of the rest of you considering this wheel/tire combo, I ended up going to 1.75" spacers in the front and stayed with 1.25" in the rear, it now has no rubbing and even tire sidewall exposure on all corners.
|05-08-2015 11:37 PM|
Originally Posted by 72Bullnose
|12-25-2014 06:12 PM|
|72Bullnose||And if anyone has a pair of 1.75" Spidertrax spacers(going to use my original tires on a trailer project) they want to trade for 1.25" or 1.5" let me know..|
|12-17-2014 04:36 PM|
Swapping front spacers from 1.25" to 1.5" eliminated all the rubbing, and as a bonus brought the front tires out to just about the same amount past the fender edge as the rear (rear is still about a 1/4" farther out even with the thinner spacers). For the benefit of the next guy if you are looking to get the same exposure front and rear I would buy spacers that are 1/2" thicker for the front than the rear.
For anyone who wants a good deal on a basically new set of 1.25" Spidertrax spacers I'll sell these for $80 shipped, that's $17 cheaper than you can get them new.
|12-10-2014 01:26 PM|
Just picked it up from the alignment shop and all I can say is "wow" what a difference! Bump steer and sensitivity is completely gone, other than being just a little stiffer than stock it drives every bit as well as it did in stock trim...100 well spent dollars.
You can see on the sheet just how far out the front toe was. The shop owner said he's replaced a lot of steering racks because people just ignore the poor steering after a lift and the toe-in/bump steer kills the steering rack...he also complimented me on my track bar/rear end centering job..
|12-08-2014 07:43 AM|
Originally Posted by 72Bullnose View Post
|12-08-2014 07:11 AM|
|Music4YourSoul||Great lookin' rig man, wheels look sharp!|
|12-08-2014 06:07 AM|
I'm really happy with the look, and that it sets nice and level, was never much of a fan of the hot rod rake that they have in stock trim.
I expect it will settle about 3/4" since it has all fresh rubber isolators to go along with the new springs. Currently 23.5" Front and 22.5" rear (wheel center to fender lip), the rear fender opening sheet metal is about an inch lower than the front so that lands me at almost right on level for now..when I started I was at 18.75" in the front and 19" in the rear so the OME-HD + 3/8" spacers(and new isolators) gave me 4.75" of lift in the front, on the rear I just added a set of new spring isolators over the old ones for 3.5" lift. Like I said, I figure it'll settle to probably 22.75" front/21.75" rear which will suit me fine.
It needs a front end alignment (going in on Wednesday) something fierce, both toe-in and camber need help and I've got some considerable bump steer/sensitivity now.
All the info on this site plus a couple of youtube videos made the installation much less painful. Things like knowing the trick on the passenger rear to get the upper control arm out of the way of the fuel tank skid, where all the fasteners were for the underhood fuse box, extending the strut fasteners when using spacers, even what size sockets to have on hand all really helped..
|12-07-2014 06:25 PM|
|dbozman||Really like that wheel/tire combo. Looks great.|
|12-07-2014 10:38 AM|
Finished (mostly) project. I am going to have to swap the front 1.25" spacers out for 1.5", I just bare get some rub at full lock on the back inside of the tires on the subframe structure, and to be honest it needs the extra .25" to flush it up with the fender edge (IMO). 1.25" spacers in the rear are perfect.
All pics here:
|12-07-2014 08:13 AM|
Originally Posted by 72Bullnose
|12-07-2014 06:32 AM|
|72Bullnose||Track bar stretch was a piece of cake, only needed 3/8" of additional length to center the rear end. For those who want to do this, a piece of 1" square tube fits inside the track bar tubing perfectly and makes the job easy.|
|12-06-2014 07:06 AM|
Since I have the material on hand I'm going to do it, it'll only cost me an hour or so of my time. Got the pinch weld mod done and moved the TPMS sensor inboard a few inches. Instead of reusing the upper strut mounts and bump stops I bought new, upper mounts were only $25 each and came with new upper spring isolators and mounting hardware. I knocked out the studs, bored the holes and recessed/welded them to get the extra length I needed for the 3/8" spacers I made.
New struts are built up(compressing those springs is no joke) and got those installed last night, I took some comparison measurements from the factory strut to the OME strut and found that the OME strut is a 1/4" longer when measured from the clamping bolt location to the spring platform, so some of the lift comes from that, (I had thought it was all from the springs).
Added a few pics here: http://s1149.photobucket.com/user/LC...%20Lift?sort=6
|12-05-2014 07:33 PM|
|Aclow33||I dont have a track bar on mine and the difference is about 1" showing more on one side.|
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