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Thread: 2012 OEM Switch Panel Blanks SOLVED Reply to Thread
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  Topic Review (Newest First)
08-23-2017 09:21 PM
K9kodi Anyone ever look into trying to use ram upfitter switches where the jk blank is?
08-23-2017 05:41 PM
tfugitt1088 i know i'm nearly 2 years late to this thread but I will be doing this mod this weekend. thanks for the write up and pics.
12-07-2015 12:37 PM
Jayswranglerx Would you need a momentary style switch to run the garage door opener or will the tactile on/off work?
05-12-2015 10:46 AM
GoGetEmTurbo This is great! I'm trying to plan out my switches right now and I hate that there are these blanks there that I previously couldn't use. I don't want all my switches above the bottom edge of the windows like the sPOD or A Pillar pods. ARBs are going to take up the switch panel in front of the shifter, leaving no more room for lights.

Thank you!
05-12-2015 09:46 AM
oleyeller08 I know this is an old thread, but anybody ever find a way to label these? I must not be searching for the right thing. I saw that someone posted a pic awhile back but its been so long the image wont show up anymore.

THanks!
06-04-2014 01:48 PM
fooddude Clearance on outside switch (driver side) was better. It seemed to fit nicely. We went around the board and had plenty of room. The seconds switch (I'll take a pic in a moment as I'm in jeep) had less room. That's why we went through the top or bottom edge (I forget, look at pics) by using coping saw to make groove.

We had ideas and every minute they changed based on trying to hit the sweet spot. Switch with "sway bar" is perfect, no issues. Blank is a bit fickle. Always works. Sometimes need to push harder than others. We plan on fixing by adding another silicone sticky circle to fill space. Remember, they are a bit squishy and compress. And we made blank pivot when it was stationary.

Probably need to slice it to about 2mm thick to make up for squishy-ness and tighten.

Good luck. Won't let me upload pic due to file size. Pm me with email or text number and I'll send photo.


-FD
06-04-2014 08:40 AM
sanctified So how was the clearance for the wires around the circuit board? Any reason why you routed the wires back through the very back plastic rather than going just out the side of the pod?
06-04-2014 06:37 AM
fooddude I realized I didnt post a pic of the switchpod back in place after the work, but you know what? There is no need! It looks the same as it did before the work! No one knows anything was done.

Forgot to mention one thing. Of the two switches froom the rubicon pod (axel lock and the swaybar disconnect) I only used one. We took an actual blank and cut the top and bottom edges off to allow it to pivot and work as a switch. Coping saw was important part of this project. Why did we do this you ask? I'm not sure. Brian said it wasn't working with the other switch as planned, so we tried that.

I'm really hoping this works for you all, because it's been terrific. Why Jeep makes it so hard for us to do, not sure. But it can be done, and I am grateful for Brian's help (and by help, I jsut sat and watched, handing tools to him like an OR nurse.) and for your patience in waiting for me to post this.

THat said, hoping the posts, now that they are there will be helpful to someone else. Please let me know if you need more info or you want to share that you were successful in this project; I'd really be interested to learn others have it as well.

Thanks again,


-FD (Steven)
06-04-2014 06:28 AM
fooddude and even more pics...
06-04-2014 06:26 AM
fooddude and more...
06-04-2014 06:25 AM
fooddude more pics...
06-04-2014 06:24 AM
fooddude OK, here are the pics I promised. I emailed from the phone, so they are in no particular order, but they include pics of the switchpod opened, switch covers removed, using a coping saw to remove the little round plastic supports inside to allow proper movement, slots for wires to come through for connections, etc.

Hope this helps, and I will be glad to send a video of the switches working to an email if desired.

Some pics did not upload, sorry guys! Itying to add more but it wont let me, but will be glad to keep trying.
06-03-2014 11:45 PM
sanctified I have two of these switches on order. I started to wire up a garage remote on Sunday but found that my breadboard momentary switch wasn't tall enough to activate the remote. I tried to super glue something on the button but that didn't work either.

The other thing that I have been working on is replacing the eaton e-locker toggle switch with a smaller deal that would work with this panel. I think I have everything figured out that I need but now am waiting for some parts to show up in the mail. The relay in my locker wiring harness is activated with just 120 milliamps, I thought I would need a 10amp switch initially which would be very hard to install in the limited space but with the much lower current rating I should be able to use something physically much smaller.
06-03-2014 10:58 PM
fooddude Here is the link...


Link for switch:
www.adafruit.com/product/1092
06-03-2014 10:51 PM
fooddude Hey guys and gals!

Got some of the pics and information for the switch panel.

Here it goes...

First of all, I have a 2008 JKUS.

I purchased a new switch pod, but not the one for a Sahara, rather the one for a Rubicon. Why? I needed the swaybar disconnect switch and axel lock. My jeep doesn't hVe either of those and I can use the moving switch covers ( more on that later.)

A while back I posted which mini switches fit and work in the pods. Sorry, but if you search the thread you'll find them. They're really cheap and are push on and off, not momentary.

Remove the switch pod from the dash. I kept my board and put it in the new pod. All stock functions should work. But now there are 2 new moving switches that don't activate any functions.

Open pod again. Place switches, one at a time, inside switch. It takes some playing around to get the sweet spot for button activation. We needed to fill a small amount of space with a silicone rubber self stick bumper. Once in place, we used an epoxy to hold the assembly in place. Repeat for second switch ( I have an LED light bar on bumper as well as driving lights on windshield.)

We drilled small hole in back of pod for one switch wire to exit and made a groove/slot in bottom of pod for second switches' wires to exit.

Nothing was done to the circuit board or the gray rubber filler strip inside the pod. Wires went behind. The beauty of this is the switch that was purchased fits inside the switch, almost as if they made it for the JK specifically.

Wire accordingly, as you would connect any switch.

Hope this and the pics help. Please ask questions of something is missing of unclear.

I am trying to upload pics from phone, not working. Will do from computer in morning.


-FD
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