|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|12-30-2016 06:27 PM|
It sounds like you are describing the accordion-like rubber boots that surrounds the smooth lubricated slide pins to keep out dirt and moisture and they keep the slide pins clean and prevent rust. The rubber TIP I noticed that was missing when I pulled the slide pin out of the slide cavity was the small rubber tip that fits around the machined area at the end of the upper slide pin. In use, the rubber tip is on the end of the slide pin, deep inside the cavity; and, as the brake pad wears, the caliper slides + and - 1/2-inch. And, my assumption is the rubber tip keeps lube around itself as the rubber tip wipes the cavity walls as the caliper slides in and out every time you apply the brakes. For example, why does the lower caliper slide pin not have the rubber tip, if it is needed on the upper slide pin? I did read the post about rear brake noises during braking if the slide pins are reversed. I'm trying to understand the physics of, and the purpose of the rubber tip.
I went to the Advance Auto Parts website and searched for slide pin hardware for a 2011 Compass Latitude, and it pulled up a photo of the Wearever Disc Brake Caliper Guide Pin Boot Kit, Part No. 16109A In the photo are four slide pin boots for both L & R rear, upper and lower slide pins, and the photo shows the two upper slide pin rubber tips.
And, the last person to do a brake job on this car was the technician at the Jeep dealership that was selling this car. This makes me wonder what kind of work they do on their other Jeep brake jobs. Why would he/she remove the rubber tip and reinstall the caliper and slide pin. The slide pin, and brake hose "end" preventing the pin from being removed, had enough rust on it that it looks to be the factory original, not a new slide pin installed when he/she did the brake job, less than 6-monts ago in prepping the car before putting it on the sales lot. Again, what is the purpose of the rubber tip?
|12-30-2016 03:21 AM|
Originally Posted by mjcougler View Post
|12-25-2016 11:56 AM|
Rear Brakes caliper slide pins
Redpine, You make an excellent point! I replaced the LR wheel bearing on my daughters 2011 compass, and in reassembling the brakes, I noticed the upper slide pin did not "feel"right, but I had to put it back together anyway. When I drove home about four miles, the LR brakes smelled terrible from overheating. I took it all apart the next morning and realized the problem was the upper slide pin was seized. It was so tight that to loosen it, I had to put a 14mm OE wrench on the bolt and I pushed back the little rubber slide pin boot and sprayed a little PB Blaster onto the pin, and I had to raise and lower the caliper and wrench at the same time. I had to continue lifting and lowering the caliper and wrench at least 40 times, replying PB Blaster about every 8-10 times. I was finally able to slide the caliper back enough to get the slide pin to come out of the slide cavity. The slide pin will not come out of the caliper because of the interference with the brake hose collar (design Flaw!). Using PB Blaster and a small brush from Harbor Freight, I was able to clean the dried caliper lube out of the slide cavity. I finally was able to use PB Blaster to get the lower slide bolt to be able to slide into the upper cavity to continue to clean out the upper slide cavity. I then wiped the PB Blaster off the slide pin and reinserted it many times to clean the PB Blaster out of the slide pin cavity. I then used the lower slide pin to lubricate the inside of the upper slide cavity by spinning the pin and lube in the cavity. I then cleaned the lower slide cavity using basically the same procedure. Once lubed and all back together, the caliper was able to slide back and forth correctly.
In all of this, I also realized the little rubber tip was not on the slide pin. I had to put it back without it. What does that rubber tip do anyway? What happens without it?
I hope this helps others to thoroughly clean and lubricate the slide pins to solve this problem.
And in an interesting afterthought, my daughter bought this car used, about 10 weeks ago, and the Jeep salesman said they had installed new brakes all around. So... it was a Jeep tech that did not clean and lube the slide pins correctly 12 weeks ago.
|05-19-2015 11:19 AM|
is there any special way to remove the front rotors?
I need to replace my whole wheel assembly along with the rotors, eventually, however cash-flow is limited but i need to be safe at the same time so i intend to replace the rotors and brakes. most of the cars and trucks that i have worked on that use disk brakes do not require any bolts to remove the rotor, but i believe this one does. through the years the nut on the front of the assembly has become coroded and rusted into one entity.
really could use your, or someones, help with this.
2007 jeep compass FWD 2.4L I4 95,000 miles
p.s. I have almost replaced the entire suspension on this d**n car. is this an issue with anyone elses?
List of repairs in the last 3 months:
ball joints (twice)
inner and outer tie rods (twice)
alternator (this one was my favorite... pain in my a$$) who the hell mounts the alternator on the underside of the motor... almost inaccessible.
what I am doing this weekend.. should be easy... maybe??
|01-09-2014 02:39 AM|
|Gramps||It's been a while since I did mine but I did not remove the brake line. It's -11 degrees right now so I can't go out and look at it to tell you why.|
|01-08-2014 07:08 PM|
|Redpine||The reason I asked is because on another thread (s), people claimed that the brake line interfered with removal of the top caliper pin. So, many people seem to choose just leaving the top pin in, rotating the caliper up, and avoid undoing the brake line.|
|01-07-2014 02:10 PM|
Redpine - I always pull and lube the pins. Can't help you there.
IRSmart - you're about do but just take a look through your wheels.
|01-06-2014 06:16 PM|
|IRSmart||so our compass has 65k miles on the original brakes...I should probably look at them|
|01-06-2014 05:58 PM|
For you guys that do the rear pad slap without removing the top caliper pin, how do you clean and relube the top pin?
After 80,000 or more miles, it seems that the top pin will require lube to prevent it from seizing prematurely in your new pad installation.
|01-03-2014 10:35 AM|
From TigerKK, Video on front brake job:
Apologies for the lateness of reply, only just joined!
For future reference as I guess you've already resolved this, this is a decent youtube vid showing how to change the pads including the part you got snagged on,
We had the same issue, I wasn't aware of the little nipple things on the face of the brake pad!
|04-15-2013 12:13 PM|
|Gramps||I finally got around to doing my rear brakes and I replaced the rotors too. They were composite and the shop didn't want to turn them, they were scored and they said they couldn't guaranty the finish. I got just over 85K on the rears and they were easy as I suspected.|
|11-09-2012 11:16 PM|
Additional information to know if you need to replace the discs if you can simply have them turned:
· 5 x 114.3 mm bolt pattern
· 294 mm disc diameter
· 13.15 mm bolt size
· 26 mm thickness
· 24 mm minimum thickness
Rear Disc Specifications:
· 5 x 114.3 mm bolt pattern
· 302 mm disc diameter
· 12.6 mm bolt size
· 10 mm thickness
· 8.4 mm minimum thickness
|10-13-2012 07:44 AM|
Another note: If you remove the Caliper adapter bracket from the spindle here are the torque specs.
Install the mounting bolts securing the caliper adapter bracket to the knuckle. Tighten the bolts to 108 N·m (80 ft. lbs.).
|05-29-2012 06:49 AM|
|Gramps||I did my fronts at 56K and now at 80K I need to do my rears. I was going to come back and review this thread myself. Never did get that 3 jaw puller, I'll see how it goes.|
|05-28-2012 08:37 AM|
You used the acronym NVH issue. Looking for that definition. Anyway did my wife's brakes last year and the rear caliper is ruined. I think i didn't put the caliper bolts back in the right places. Wish I would have seen this write up first or at least the note associated with it. (I know this an old thread)
NOTE: When installing the caliper guide pin bolts (2, 3), make sure the bolts are put back in the same locations as when removed to avoid NVH issues. Depending on the build date and services performed, the location of the bolt with the special sleeve on the tip (3) can vary.
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