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  Topic Review (Newest First)
04-08-2013 11:44 AM
Necko2529
Quote:
Originally Posted by Imped View Post
That's a pretty good indicator that it's not sitting neutrally. You could pick up a new bracket off eBay or just figure out where it needs to be, cut a piece of steel to use as a splice, and weld it.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/05-06-Jeep-W...ac0191&vxp=mtr

Just a tip: When I do this, I preload the exhaust up just a bit, like 1/4". That will keep it tight and will prevent the hanger from moving around inside the bushing.
First of all, thanks for the link. Dealership had no idea what i was talking about.

I made a rookie mistake when taking measurements. I lifted the 3550 and threw a jack stand underneath and then took my measures... I ended up cutting just a hair less than an inch. Once everything was welded up and i went to install it is when i realized what i have done.

I could easily splice another piece in but am thinking that may not be the best way to go about it. Id rather get a whole new bracket and eliminate extra welds.

Im very happy with my rokmen skid. But i figured if im gonna go thru all this trouble to put the exhaust back to neutral position i might as well go ahead and get some more clearance with Savvy. The weight also played a role, i forgot just how much that pig weighs.
04-08-2013 10:44 AM
Imped That's a pretty good indicator that it's not sitting neutrally. You could pick up a new bracket off eBay or just figure out where it needs to be, cut a piece of steel to use as a splice, and weld it.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/05-06-Jeep-W...ac0191&vxp=mtr

Just a tip: When I do this, I preload the exhaust up just a bit, like 1/4". That will keep it tight and will prevent the hanger from moving around inside the bushing.
04-08-2013 10:37 AM
Necko2529
Quote:
Originally Posted by Imped View Post
Savvy uses a slotted hanger with plenty of adjustment. Support the exhaust so that it's neutral--not sagging or being forced up--and tighten down the bolts. Done.
This is the reason im going to switch over to savvy. I screwed my stock exhaust hanger, cut out too much, now the muffler is riding on the skid. Im pretty sure my exhaust is in a bind since i had to hook it up and then forcefully slide the hanger back in place on the 3550 it can't be good....
04-08-2013 09:32 AM
Ljcrawler05
Quote:
Originally Posted by Imped View Post
Savvy uses a slotted hanger with plenty of adjustment. Support the exhaust so that it's neutral--not sagging or being forced up--and tighten down the bolts. Done.
Sounds solid, just gotta get it to my door
04-08-2013 09:22 AM
Imped Savvy uses a slotted hanger with plenty of adjustment. Support the exhaust so that it's neutral--not sagging or being forced up--and tighten down the bolts. Done.
04-08-2013 09:02 AM
Ljcrawler05
Quote:
Originally Posted by Imped View Post
If you raise the transmission, you raise the exhaust. It doesn't matter what skid you use, who it's from or what they say.....you want to cut the exhaust mount down by the amount you raise the transmission over stock so that the exhaust remains neutral. It's very intuitive when you think about it and it's really that simple.
Makes sense when you put it that way. But I haven't read a post/thread by you that didn't. So when savvy decides to get their under armor manufacturing going again I'll just make the changes as necessary, but with their adjustable hanger it won't be too much of an issue.
04-08-2013 08:39 AM
UnlimitedMatt I bet you would not need to modify your exhaust hanger since you have the bigger bl. But if you do, it is not really a big deal if you can cut and weld. My exhaust was barely rattling against the tub before I modified the hanger. It was more annoying than anything else.

Good luck!

**Edit**
What Imped says makes sense about needing to modify the exhaust.
04-08-2013 08:35 AM
Imped If you raise the transmission, you raise the exhaust. It doesn't matter what skid you use, who it's from or what they say.....you want to cut the exhaust mount down by the amount you raise the transmission over stock so that the exhaust remains neutral. It's very intuitive when you think about it and it's really that simple.
04-08-2013 08:31 AM
Ljcrawler05 Alright, but I've got a 1.25" body lift and novak sitting at the house waiting to be installed so I would probably be good on that but I guess I'll just have to put the skid on and see where I'm at is the basic answer. I'd really prefer to not have to mess with it, but will do if necessary
04-08-2013 08:27 AM
UnlimitedMatt
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ljcrawler05 View Post
How do they address the exhaust clearance
Before I installed my Rokmen pan, I installed a 1/2 inch bl, mml and the Novak transfer case cable to avoid possible issues.

When I initially installed my belly pan, I didn't modify my exhaust as they say not everyone needs to. Needless to say, I needed to.

I called Rokmen (they were super friendly) and they suggested to cut 5/8 of an inch off of the hanger.

I did this and it is now perfect.
04-08-2013 08:04 AM
Ljcrawler05
Quote:
Originally Posted by UnlimitedMatt View Post
Rokmen gains about 2.25 over the stock pan.
How do they address the exhaust clearance
04-08-2013 07:40 AM
UnlimitedMatt Rokmen gains about 2.25 over the stock pan.
04-07-2013 08:10 PM
rikkards
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sahara707 View Post
309.00 less ROKMEN10 discount code, that's about 278.00. No affiliation with Rokmen, I just bought one for my 2000 TJ.

Sent from my iPad using JeepForum
It's a nice skid but doesn't look like you gain any clearance over the stock. I gained about 3 inches when I put on my UHC skid over stock. Course everything is nicely cramped in there now even with a BL.
04-07-2013 03:45 PM
Sahara707 309.00 less ROKMEN10 discount code, that's about 278.00. No affiliation with Rokmen, I just bought one for my 2000 TJ.

Sent from my iPad using JeepForum
04-06-2013 03:00 PM
rikkards
Quote:
Originally Posted by IEcrawlerTJ01 View Post
Whenever thy happens whether it be track bar mount or lca mount or whatever. I just grab a decent sized crescent wrench and bend each tab a lil bit. Once you slid in and bolt down. It closes right back up
Easier said than done when it is 1/4" thick But yeah more or less that was what I did
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