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  Topic Review (Newest First)
09-02-2019 07:29 PM
kg6mov
Quote:
Originally Posted by variable View Post
I'm not using anything interesting for motor mounts. I replaced them about 6 months ago-ish, but it was just a replacement of the rubber stuff, not an upgrade.

Swapped the belt for one from a 95 - I think this was the first year the belt changed as its 90 1/8" vs the 1993's 90 5/8". The groves appear a bit thicker, but that could just be because mine was warn a bit. Its not really visible in the picture, but the difference in the tensioner's position is hard to tell visually from 11 o'clock, but its not at 12 o'clock.. I dunno, maybe went from 1030 to 1115? Definitely further from the battery tray though. No idea what (if any) long term affect that might have. Ran the engine for a few minutes and it seems to run fine - not sure what I was expecting there :-P

I'll have to look and see if the part numbers are different for the tensioner too - I never thought to look till now.
That looks a lot better in the second picture, thatís about where mine sits. I canít imagine thereíd be long term detriment to the tensioner.
09-02-2019 05:50 PM
jeeepguy Put a CAI on it and then put the second battery where the airbox is now. Thats what I'm doing. I'm fabbing up the battery tray now.
09-01-2019 06:32 PM
variable I'm not using anything interesting for motor mounts. I replaced them about 6 months ago-ish, but it was just a replacement of the rubber stuff, not an upgrade.

Swapped the belt for one from a 95 - I think this was the first year the belt changed as its 90 1/8" vs the 1993's 90 5/8". The groves appear a bit thicker, but that could just be because mine was warn a bit. Its not really visible in the picture, but the difference in the tensioner's position is hard to tell visually from 11 o'clock, but its not at 12 o'clock.. I dunno, maybe went from 1030 to 1115? Definitely further from the battery tray though. No idea what (if any) long term affect that might have. Ran the engine for a few minutes and it seems to run fine - not sure what I was expecting there :-P

I'll have to look and see if the part numbers are different for the tensioner too - I never thought to look till now.
08-30-2019 09:14 PM
kg6mov What are you running for motor mounts? I'm definitely under the impression that my poly ironman4x4fab mounts are helping keep the engine out of the battery box.

That said, I've got a good 3/4" of clearance from tensioner to battery tray when things are off. There's differences between the first gen V8 belt drive and the second gen like timo and I have. Not clear how that affects things here. On my setup the tensioner pulley is about 11 o'clock on the arm.

I also throw fresh belts at things for shiggles, so I'd start with a new belt to see if it's better with a fresh one.
08-30-2019 11:55 AM
variable Got it all together, with both batteries in (yay - my wallet is sad though). I dread the day I have to remove it for some reason though..

One problem - I'm guessing yours is shifted towards the passenger side a hair more than mine ended up, but at first glance, everything fits nicely (aside from having to re-do the coil bracket). However, I haven't figured out if its happening while under load or if its a weird combo of the unibody flexing or both, but it would appear that intermittently the auto-tensioning idler will rub the tray.

I've only put about 300 miles on it in this setup - went offroading.. broke some things.. so its not going anywhere - but I think that if it were to continue at this rate, probably by about 1500 miles (wild guess), the belt will have worn sufficiently to come apart.

Since I've some other things to fix first (broke the front left LCA mount on the axle side...), its not urgent and I probably needed to replace the belt anyway, but I'm considering my options here and coming up a bit short. I don't have the machine shop in my garage that you've got and there's only so much noise I can make in my little 1 car garage at our apt... so I don't think that 'fixing' the tray is going to be the solution I end up with...

In another post, I think timo said something about lifting the ac compressor to fit some valve covers - though he also mentioned having to get a longer belt. I'm thinking maybe I lift the compressor (less than he did) which will cause the idler to retract under the higher tension and hopefully give me the space I need. This could have some other side effects that might not be immediate though that I'm concerned about - more wear on various bearings, and the belt etc.

The only other thing I can think of is somehow re-orienting the idler so that its taking up the slack in a different location - i.e. flip it so its downwards facing instead of up (and figure out how to flip the spring I guess). I haven't thought that one out in terms of feasibility but that general idea.

I suppose I could also put a fixed idler there and actually relocate the auto tensioning one, but that would be a big pita with an already limited amount of space..

Is a shorter belt even worth considering in this case? (I really don't want to mess with the battery tray if you hadn't noticed )
08-13-2019 03:17 PM
kg6mov Yup, it’s a tight fit. The same trick wouldn’t work on a 4.0 with where the AC compressor ends up.

I’ve a notion to do a ZJ specific dual battery mount that would fit a little better, but I just don’t have the drafting time I used to.
08-13-2019 01:39 PM
variable
Quote:
Originally Posted by kg6mov View Post
They just end up in a really inconvenient place with the way the ruffstuff tray is shoehorned in there. The intention is to be able to reconfigure for 24V mobile welding in the future, so ease of access is important.
Totally didn't notice the cutouts for the side terminals - that could have ended badly! But good grief, you weren't kidding about shoehorning that sucker in there! Just when I thought I had it perfect, I realized there was no way I was going to be able to open the radiator cap... cut, measure, re-weld, face-palm, rinse repeat... had to compensate for it deforming a tad with the weight of a battery on it. OI!
08-12-2019 03:08 PM
Spetie Right on I’m thinking about starting a built thread but not sure if I should call it a build thread or a repair thread lol. You were very helpful around this time last year in telling me to determine my life off the size of tires I wanted and I just yesterday picked up 4 JK 17in rims for 40$. Problem is I don’t have a lot of money to throw at any of this so for me it’s all about waiting for the right deal to come my way lol. That being said I should really reach out to Kolak and see if I can buy the 2.5 OME kit piece by piece lol. I can always come up with 100$ here and there but will never have 800-1000 to drop all at once.
08-11-2019 10:17 PM
kg6mov I keep a spray bottle of water with dish soap for encouraging cables through tight spaces. It helps a lot.

The dual 8awg I ran is about the biggest I think you could get through that grommet. We're gonna try some 10awg dual in k6rtm's 98 at some point. Probably get a single run of 6awg if you just wanted positive.
08-11-2019 09:01 PM
Spetie Ah I’ll have to look a little harder. The tow hitch wiring kit I bought required a line be ran from the battery to the rear end. I ended up puncturing a hole in a rubber boot that was feeding more wiring through the firewall on the passenger side. Was a very annoying job none the less but got it done. I’ll have to look a little harder for the grommets your talking about for my next job of getting power to an amp for my sound system.
08-11-2019 07:41 PM
kg6mov I used a factory wire grommet (the black rubber ring in the first pic) that goes through the firewall and added the 8awg. Tight squeeze but it worked out great. Should be one in the same place on a 98.
08-10-2019 11:26 PM
Spetie
Quote:
Originally Posted by kg6mov View Post
Not much, but something, new 8awg run from the battery through the firewall. This will become the new feed for everything in the back that is currently being fed off a tap on the factory amp.
Attachment 2987481
Attachment 2987489
Attachment 2987497
This might be a fairly dumb question but when you ran this new 8awg through the firewall did you just drill a new hole in your firewall?

I’m looking at installing a better stereo system in my 98ZJ and trying to find the best way to run power from the battery rear drivers side seat. Iv just been concerned about unintended consequences of drilling a hold in the firewall and if I do is there anything I should know first?
08-09-2019 06:31 PM
kg6mov They just end up in a really inconvenient place with the way the ruffstuff tray is shoehorned in there. The intention is to be able to reconfigure for 24V mobile welding in the future, so ease of access is important.
08-09-2019 05:08 PM
variable
Quote:
Originally Posted by kg6mov View Post
It's installed, the IOU list is things that I've done to the jeep in the past 6 months that haven't been posted here.

Came out like this:
Attachment 2944402
Hey - sorry if you answered this somewhere else in the thread - was curious why you didn't use the screw terminals to connect the batteries together, or something along those lines. Was it a 'I might need to disconnect the two in a hurry' thing?
02-17-2019 02:12 AM
kg6mov Katie is making it known that she misses the a-pillar lights. Iíve got the relay box and new 15w pods already, even the switches and a box of different color wire. Found a cheap wireless transmitter to add as well.

A plan hatches, stay tuned.
Attachment 3803403
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