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Thread: Needed Parts to lift a TJ Reply to Thread
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  Topic Review (Newest First)
09-19-2012 09:16 PM
Caddac
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironhead_Jed
ahhh, ok, well most of that thread is over 4 years old. and the majority of the people supporting long arm set ups have small post counts. the main knowledge guys say it in there. no real benefit unless you stretch it and actually hurt your break over angle
I just paid more attention to how they mention that the long arm runs much smoother on the street than short arm. And requires a lot less "spot on" decisions
09-19-2012 12:32 PM
Ironhead ahhh, ok, well most of that thread is over 4 years old. and the majority of the people supporting long arm set ups have small post counts. the main knowledge guys say it in there. no real benefit unless you stretch it and actually hurt your break over angle
09-19-2012 11:42 AM
Caddac
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironhead_Jed View Post
I think you will find a lot of people that disagree with this statement

IMO long arms are unnecessary on a jeep. Mid arms if you want to extend the wheelbase and run 12-14" travel shocks, other than that, shortarms will give you the best ride and are plenty capable off road
Its just what I got from going through threads, such as

https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/lo...ension-613019/
09-18-2012 11:06 AM
Ironhead
Quote:
Originally Posted by Caddac View Post
I determined that the long arm would be most suitable because it provides the most smooth ride both on and off the road
I think you will find a lot of people that disagree with this statement

IMO long arms are unnecessary on a jeep. Mid arms if you want to extend the wheelbase and run 12-14" travel shocks, other than that, shortarms will give you the best ride and are plenty capable off road
09-17-2012 04:56 PM
Caddac
Quote:
Originally Posted by connor0770 View Post
$800 is pretty reasonable if you are including gears. Your best bet is to take the axles out of the Jeep and bring them to the shop. They wont charge as much.

Also you HAVE TO regear both axles at the same time.

Is there a reason you want a long arm vs. short arm kit? Just wondering, you could go either route.

Hopefully you can find a Rubi!
After going through a lot of threads and getting a lot of input from other owners, I determined that the long arm would be most suitable because it provides the most smooth ride both on and off the road, instead of leaning more to one side. And thanks I'm determined
09-17-2012 04:42 PM
ZMBJ33P
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironhead_Jed View Post
theres a good reason for that. since it was only available from 2003-2006 most of the soccer moms that bought them have long since traded them in or resold them. most people that have them now are wheelers and are not planning on letting them go...ever
Not EVER!

Good luck with the search! I know they are rare here in AZ, and we are fortunate enough not to deal with rust issues.
09-17-2012 02:23 PM
connor0770
Quote:
Originally Posted by RioRyan View Post
IIRC for 35s, the Dana 44s will be sufficient. You will need to regear though, so factor that in. I was quoted by two different shops for regear, $800 and $1300.
$800 is pretty reasonable if you are including gears. Your best bet is to take the axles out of the Jeep and bring them to the shop. They wont charge as much.

Also you HAVE TO regear both axles at the same time.

Is there a reason you want a long arm vs. short arm kit? Just wondering, you could go either route.

Hopefully you can find a Rubi!
09-17-2012 02:18 PM
RioRyan
Quote:
Originally Posted by Caddac View Post
Most p the ones I've seen are pretty decent with not having rust. Any certain areas to keep an eye out for rust?
Well when I was looking at buying, I saw several that had the tops of the fenders rusted out. Besides that, check the frame especially near where the rear lower control arms attach to the frame (just in front of the rear tire). Also if you can, have them fold down the windshield so you can look inside the hinge. I didn't find out for 3 weeks after I got mine, that my windshield frame is so rusted it needs replacing. It doesn't show at all from the outside.
09-17-2012 11:00 AM
Caddac
Quote:
Originally Posted by RioRyan
When I was looking for a TJ I looked at a 2003 I think, it was a yellow Rubi and had surface rust all over the body. The guy wanted $12,000. I can't remember what the mileage was, but with the amount of rust I took one glance and said no thanks.
Most p the ones I've seen are pretty decent with not having rust. Any certain areas to keep an eye out for rust?
09-17-2012 10:47 AM
RioRyan When I was looking for a TJ I looked at a 2003 I think, it was a yellow Rubi and had surface rust all over the body. The guy wanted $12,000. I can't remember what the mileage was, but with the amount of rust I took one glance and said no thanks.
09-17-2012 10:34 AM
Ironhead theres a good reason for that. since it was only available from 2003-2006 most of the soccer moms that bought them have long since traded them in or resold them. most people that have them now are wheelers and are not planning on letting them go...ever
09-17-2012 10:14 AM
Caddac
Quote:
Originally Posted by ZMBJ33P

I think a large number of us, given the option to go back and do it again, would start with a Rubi
Of course. The only issue I'm having is finding Rubis for sale, and the rare times I do, in a colour I very much dislike.
09-17-2012 10:11 AM
Caddac
Quote:
Originally Posted by RioRyan

IIRC for 35s, the Dana 44s will be sufficient. You will need to regear though, so factor that in. I was quoted by two different shops for regear, $800 and $1300.
Yeah I figured. Thanks very much for the quote, I'll use that as a bargaining price :P
09-17-2012 10:06 AM
ZMBJ33P
Quote:
Originally Posted by Caddac View Post
Should I just look for a Rubicon? It will help remove the cost of buying a new front and rear dana 44, and I can find them for either the same price, or a couple thousand more.
I think a large number of us, given the option to go back and do it again, would start with a Rubi
09-17-2012 09:59 AM
RioRyan
Quote:
Originally Posted by Caddac View Post
If I do get the rubi, would I need to still swap the front and rear Dana 44's for new ones in order to take the strain?
IIRC for 35s, the Dana 44s will be sufficient. You will need to regear though, so factor that in. I was quoted by two different shops for regear, $800 and $1300.
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