JeepForum.com - Reply to Topic
Thread: Wrangler Magnum V8 Discussion Reply to Thread
Title:
Message:

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the JeepForum.com forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid e-mail address for yourself.



Email Address:
OR

Log-in










  Additional Options
Miscellaneous Options

  Topic Review (Newest First)
11-25-2021 12:09 PM
jpin86 I didn’t have any problems with my clutch. Maybe it’s not bled enough? When I bought my master and slave cylinder there was a certain way it said to bleed it…but I can’t remember.
11-24-2021 01:51 PM
wildman4x4nut
Quote:
Originally Posted by curfman11 View Post
I've run into an issue with my V8 swap. Any clutch aficionados out there? I have a 97 Wrangler 2.5L AX5 that now has a 5.9L with AX15. I installed a 5.9L flywheel and my first clutch the pedal was extremely hard to press and I broke the slave. I replaced slave/master assembly (meant for a 1997 Wrangler) and a different branded 12" clutch to fit the 5.9L flywheel. Now when I push the clutch pedal it is squishy all the way to the floor and it does not disengage the tranny. I don't believe anything is wrong on the clutch side. So I'm thinking that the problem is either with the TO or the slave. Any thoughts?
Trying to find where people were dealing with clutch issues after their V-8 swaps.

Go to page 18 in this build thread and he talks about needing a longer clutch rod like I'd suggested over on WTF.

https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/...9/index18.html

It ended up being his master/slave cylinders but also needed a longer rod for the slave.
11-24-2021 12:55 PM
Bmann412
Quote:
Originally Posted by curfman11 View Post
I've run into an issue with my V8 swap. Any clutch aficionados out there? I have a 97 Wrangler 2.5L AX5 that now has a 5.9L with AX15. I installed a 5.9L flywheel and my first clutch the pedal was extremely hard to press and I broke the slave. I replaced slave/master assembly (meant for a 1997 Wrangler) and a different branded 12" clutch to fit the 5.9L flywheel. Now when I push the clutch pedal it is squishy all the way to the floor and it does not disengage the tranny. I don't believe anything is wrong on the clutch side. So I'm thinking that the problem is either with the TO or the slave. Any thoughts?

I ran into similar issues when I first setup my clutch. With the pedal fully depressed it wouldnít disengage. I ended up adding some length to the master cylinder to clutch pedal rod. Shims were also added to space the fly wheel from from the block.
11-24-2021 11:54 AM
curfman11 I've run into an issue with my V8 swap. Any clutch aficionados out there? I have a 97 Wrangler 2.5L AX5 that now has a 5.9L with AX15. I installed a 5.9L flywheel and my first clutch the pedal was extremely hard to press and I broke the slave. I replaced slave/master assembly (meant for a 1997 Wrangler) and a different branded 12" clutch to fit the 5.9L flywheel. Now when I push the clutch pedal it is squishy all the way to the floor and it does not disengage the tranny. I don't believe anything is wrong on the clutch side. So I'm thinking that the problem is either with the TO or the slave. Any thoughts?
11-09-2021 08:12 AM
jpin86 Anyone have a reputable company they can refer for a ecm rebuild?
09-28-2021 05:37 PM
wildman4x4nut
Quote:
Originally Posted by jpin86 View Post
What exhaust are you going to use? Dual 2 1/2 into a single 3?
2.5" from the headers to Y-pipe into a 2 into 1 piece and then 3" thru the cat and either to the rear or just in front of the axle depending on what I have room for. The other people who have built the stroker motors have all said they had to go to 3" or larger exhaust. One ran the exhaust he'd made for his 5.2 and when he upgraded to 3" he noticed a huge performance gain.
09-28-2021 11:44 AM
jpin86
Quote:
Originally Posted by wildman4x4nut View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by jpin86 View Post
It looks like they dump out the same place factory exhaust manifolds do.
If you don’t want to mess with headers, you can get a set of factory 92-93 Dakota manifolds. The outlet is biggest out of all magnum manifolds.
Well this was a huge experiment in the first place and I wouldn't be going thru this much trouble for stock manifolds. I get that for many headers don't seem to help or they cause issues. But I've had good luck with headers and with the way I have this engine built I think headers are going to be needed.

If I can't fit the Y-pipe back there I can always go back to the block hugger headers.
What exhaust are you going to use? Dual 2 1/2 into a single 3?
09-28-2021 11:35 AM
wildman4x4nut
Quote:
Originally Posted by jpin86 View Post
It looks like they dump out the same place factory exhaust manifolds do.
If you donít want to mess with headers, you can get a set of factory 92-93 Dakota manifolds. The outlet is biggest out of all magnum manifolds.
Well this was a huge experiment in the first place and I wouldn't be going thru this much trouble for stock manifolds. I get that for many headers don't seem to help or they cause issues. But I've had good luck with headers and with the way I have this engine built I think headers are going to be needed.

If I can't fit the Y-pipe back there I can always go back to the block hugger headers.
09-28-2021 11:08 AM
jpin86 It looks like they dump out the same place factory exhaust manifolds do.
If you don’t want to mess with headers, you can get a set of factory 92-93 Dakota manifolds. The outlet is biggest out of all magnum manifolds.
09-28-2021 09:02 AM
wildman4x4nut
Quote:
Originally Posted by NashvilleTJ View Post
Rick, have you looked where your front driveshaft will go? On my rig I had to clear both the link and the driveshaft. Itís tight to say the least, and I still get a small but of contact on my shaft at full stuff - just enough the scuff the paint.
The flanges will be here today or tomorrow so I'll be able to start test fitting some pipe then. I was planning on taking the driveshafts to the shop to get lengthened Friday but might wait until next week so I have time to play with the shafts and exhaust.
09-28-2021 08:24 AM
NashvilleTJ Rick, have you looked where your front driveshaft will go? On my rig I had to clear both the link and the driveshaft. Itís tight to say the least, and I still get a small but of contact on my shaft at full stuff - just enough the scuff the paint.
09-27-2021 10:15 PM
wildman4x4nut OK all,
I'd asked about this before and hadn't gotten a response. So I'd found a set of headers for CHEAP on Facebook so I ordered them just to try them out.







I have the Savvy midarm suspension on my TJ so this might be different on others rigs. Since many here have used the stock exhaust manifolds I thought I'd give this a try instead of the block huggers.

So the midarm upper link is right under where these headers dump out at.





But I think I can notch the lip on the tub and snake the exhaust past all of it. I'll know in the next couple of days since the flanges will be here this week. I'm going to be doing 2.5" from the headers into the Y-pipe and then 3" to the back of the rig.



And of course the passenger side is a piece of cake.





And then just cause I had to post a picture of my intake again.

09-03-2021 10:37 PM
jpin86 Got my shifter lengthened 2 inches and raised 1.25 because of the body lift. I welded in 5/8 rod, ground down the welds and added a 3/4 od 5/8 id sleeve for extra strength.
05-17-2021 08:33 PM
jpin86 Here’s the result of my dyno tune, but It has to go back. I’m still having idle issues when coasting to a stop. My cam is a custom grind from bullet cams. 218/226 @.050, 525/525 lift ground on a 112 lobe center, installed 4 degrees advanced. 9.6:1 Keith black pistons, edelbrock heads, comp cams ultra pro roller rockers. Stock intake and injectors. 1993 Dakota exhaust manifolds, dual 2 1/2 exhaust. Max hp at the wheels 236 and 309 torque. Around 300hp 370 torque at the crank factoring in a 20% drivetrain loss.

https://youtu.be/o2YHxIcyKuo
05-16-2021 06:55 PM
Toonces
Quote:
Originally Posted by wildman4x4nut View Post
Yes ANY cam change would be a good idea if it's a stock or close to stock cam.

I got a custom ground cam from HiPoTek but haven't started my engine yet so I can't say how it is.
Since you are gunna have to have a tune for your PCM to change it from a 5.2 to a 5.9 so getting it tuned for your cam isn't gunna cost anymore. I'm guessing you have read all the tech articles on Hughes Engines website?
I've read other articles that say the same thing about the stock cam in either the 5.2/5.9. Another place to look at would be http://utawesomeperformance.com/index.html as he makes some nice performance parts also.
Thanks Wildman, I've been through the Hughes tech articles and now UTAwesome's and think I might go with UTAwesome's "RV" cam 206/206 112LSA .464 lift w/1.6. It's essentially keeping it in line with a stock rebuild that'll breathe a little better and doesn't require me to change out springs. I'm going to pick up the valley pan he makes too. The motor I have was only in a truck for 7 months before it was wrecked but the intake was suffering from plenum oil leak. I have an aluminum plate to fix that issue but keeping hot oil off the bottom of the intake plenum is a good idea just to lower temps on the intake.
This thread has more than 15 replies. Click here to review the whole thread.

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome