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Welding Information Thread ... links, Scans, etc. MUST READ!

31K views 27 replies 20 participants last post by  HurricaneRZA 
#1 · (Edited)
This thread will consist of links to information, forums, and scans that i will put together. its aimed at beginners and it should give a good starting place and hopefully answer the mroe technically oriented questions i see asked. ill break stuff into sections and by process (at least ill try to). i hope this helps.

if you want something posted that isnt in here .. Pm me and ill do my best ... remember this is a work in progress so ill be adding stuff every week.

and im going to reserve a few spots for future additions.

Basic Welding Position Terminology w/ graphics:
http://www.aww-kittah-aww.com/up/files/1345/BasicPositions1.JPG
http://www.aww-kittah-aww.com/up/files/1345/BasicPositions2.JPG

1=Flat 2=Horizontal 3=Vertical 4=Overhead

F = Fillet (pronunciation - Fill-it ... not Fi-lay) - a weld of approximately triangular cross section used to join 2 pieces, especially perpendicular. I.E. 3F = Vertical Fillet Weld

G = Groove - kind of self explanitory ... a weld laid in a groove joint between two plates or bases. I.E. 2G = Horizontal Groove Weld

Know these positions. if you re serious about welding or thinking about a career or part time in welding or around welding, know them. they are common and widely used. This is the absolute base knowledge needed for welding.

SMAW "F Group" Descriptions and Information:

http://www.aww-kittah-aww.com/up/files/1345/F1Group.JPG
More Commonly referred to as "idiot rods" .. a drunk monkey can run these and make it look easy.

http://www.aww-kittah-aww.com/up/files/1345/F2Group.JPG
F2 rods are commonly used for sheet work, easy rods to use and beautiful results

http://www.aww-kittah-aww.com/up/files/1345/F3Group.JPG
I have heard these called every name in the book ... my favorites: 'whistle sticks' (they tend to whistle while fillet welding), 'dig sticks' (deep penetration and low/med deposit rate), and more often then not "@#$%% @#$#*% @##$^()^* little pieces of #$%$% *#&%" These are a very versatile electrode but they are not the easiest to learn with. Used widely for root passes on pipe and plate of all thicknesses and diameters. They work well with a 'whipping' technique.

http://www.aww-kittah-aww.com/up/files/1345/F4Group1.JPG
http://www.aww-kittah-aww.com/up/files/1345/F4Group2.JPG
And my favorite rod of all time .. the Low-Hy. Great electrodes. They are all position and they make beautiful beads when run properly. Store them in air tight containers, preferable a rod oven at 300*. Water is 2 parts hydrogen ... and there is a lot of water vapor in the air ... low-hy and atmospheric water vapor dont mix. it will cause hydrogen cracking.

SMAW Electrode Numbering System:
http://www.aww-kittah-aww.com/up/files/1345/SMAWElectrodeNumberingSystem.jpg

Know these numbering systems. they tell you everything about a specific electrode from the positions they can be used in, the needed polarity, and the general characteristics. not to mention the tensile strength. it would be unfortunate to make a weld with 7018 that needed to withstand 80,000 PSI.

SMAW Electrode Characteristics
http://www.aww-kittah-aww.com/up/files/1345/SMAWElectrodeChar.jpg

Root Pass Troubleshooting Cures and Causes:
http://www.aww-kittah-aww.com/up/files/1345/RootPassTS.jpg

Typical GMAW Welding Parameters: (good starting point for beginners)
http://www.aww-kittah-aww.com/up/files/1345/TypicalGMAWParameters.jpg

Wire Fed Trouble Shooting:
http://www.aww-kittah-aww.com/up/files/1345/GMAWTS1.jpg
http://www.aww-kittah-aww.com/up/files/1345/GMAWTS2.jpg
http://www.aww-kittah-aww.com/up/files/1345/GMAWTS3.jpg
http://www.aww-kittah-aww.com/up/files/1345/GMAWTS4.jpg

Modes of GMAW Transfer; Short Circuit, Globular, Spray Transfer:
http://www.aww-kittah-aww.com/up/files/1345/ModesGMAW1.jpg
http://www.aww-kittah-aww.com/up/files/1345/ModesGMAW2.jpg
http://www.aww-kittah-aww.com/up/files/1345/ModesGMAW3.jpg
http://www.aww-kittah-aww.com/up/files/1345/ModesGMAW4.jpg

FCAW Electrode Specification and Information:
http://www.aww-kittah-aww.com/up/files/1345/FCAWElectrodeSpec1.JPG
http://www.aww-kittah-aww.com/up/files/1345/FCAWElectrodeSpec2.JPG
http://www.aww-kittah-aww.com/up/files/1345/FCAWElectrodeSpec3.JPG

Information on Gases for Gas Shielded Processes
http://www.aww-kittah-aww.com/up/files/1345/Gases1.JPG
http://www.aww-kittah-aww.com/up/files/1345/Gases2.JPG
 
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#5 ·
Thread is a sticky now (as long as the section mods do not mind ) Don't worry about posts clogging up your thread, if it gets to cluttered I can clean them out.
 
#6 · (Edited)
thanks ... i dont mind posts in here as long they are on topic with either questions or additional info.

thanks for the sticky. im trying to get more scans / links together for an update later this week.

EDIT: made some updates / comments on some of the information i provided.
 
#7 · (Edited)
Here are some notes i've collected over time (I think a lot of this was from a miller publication)

Tig​

A negative direct current from the electrode causes a stream of electrons to collide with the surface, generating large amounts of heat at the weld region. This creates a deep, narrow weld (needs to be EXTRA super clean). In the opposite process where the electrode is connected to the positive power supply terminal, positively charged ions flow from the tip of the electrode instead, so the heating action of the electrons is mostly on the electrode. This mode also helps to remove oxide layers from the surface of the region to be welded, which is good for metals such as Aluminium or Magnesium. A shallow, wide weld is produced from this mode, with minimum heat input. Alternating current gives a combination of negative and positive modes, giving a cleaning effect and imparts a lot of heat as well.

If the amount of current used exceeds the capability of the electrode, tungsten inclusions in the weld may result. Known as tungsten spitting, it can be identified with radiography and prevented by changing the type of electrode or increasing the electrode diameter. In addition, if the electrode is not well protected by the gas shield or the operator accidentally allows it to contact the molten metal, it can become dirty or contaminated. This often causes the welding arc to become unstable, requiring that electrode be ground with a diamond abrasive to remove the impurity.[14]

he preferred polarity of the GTAW system depends largely on the type of metal being welded. Direct current with a negatively charged electrode (DCEN) is often employed when welding steels, nickel, titanium, and other metals. It can also be used in automatic GTA welding of aluminum or magnesium when helium is used as a shielding gas. The negatively charged electrode generates heat by emitting electrons which travel across the arc, causing thermal ionization of the shielding gas and increasing the temperature of the base material. The ionized shielding gas flows toward the electrode, not the base material. Direct current with a positively charged electrode (DCEP) is less common, and is used primarily for shallow welds since less heat is generated in the base material. Instead of flowing from the electrode to the base material, as in DCEN, electrons go the other direction, causing the electrode to reach very high temperatures. To help it maintain its shape and prevent softening, a larger electrode is often used. As the electrons flow toward the electrode, ionized shielding gas flows back toward the base material, cleaning the weld by removing oxides and other impurities and thereby improving its quality and appearance.
Alternating current, commonly used when welding aluminum and magnesium manually or semi-automatically, combines the two direct currents by making the electrode and base material alternate between positive and negative charge. This causes the electron flow to switch directions constantly, preventing the tungsten electrode from overheating while maintaining the heat in the base material. Surface oxides are still removed during the electrode-positive portion of the cycle and the base metal is heated more deeply during the electrode-negative portion of the cycle. Some power supplies enable operators to use an unbalanced alternating current wave by modifying the exact percentage of time that the current spends in each state of polarity, giving them more control over the amount of heat and cleaning action supplied by the power source. In addition, operators must be wary of rectification, in which the arc fails to reignite as it passes from straight polarity (negative electrode) to reverse polarity (positive electrode). To remedy the problem, a square wave power supply can be used, as can high-frequency voltage to encourage ignition.[17]
Pure tungsten electrodes (classified as WP or EWP) are general purpose and low cost electrodes. Cerium oxide (or ceria) as an alloying element improves arc stability and ease of starting while decreasing burn-off. Using an alloy of lanthanum oxide (or lanthana) has a similar effect. Thorium oxide (or thoria) alloy electrodes were designed for DC applications and can withstand somewhat higher temperatures while providing many of the benefits of other alloys. However, it is somewhat radioactive. Inhalation of the thorium grinding dust during preparation of the electrode is hazardous to one's health. As a replacement to thoriated electrodes, electrodes with larger concentrations of lanthanum oxide can be used. Electrodes containing zirconium oxide (or zirconia) increase the current capacity while improving arc stability and starting and increasing electrode life. In addition, electrode manufacturers may create alternative tungsten alloys with specified metal additions, and these are designated with the classification EWG under the AWS system.
Filler metals are also used in nearly all applications of GTAW, the major exception being the welding of thin materials. Filler metals are available with different diameters and are made of a variety of materials. In most cases, the filler metal in the form of a rod is added to the weld pool manually, but some applications call for an automatically fed filler metal, which often is stored on spools or coils.[19]

Argon is the most commonly used shielding gas for GTAW, since it helps prevent defects due to a varying arc length. When used with alternating current, the use of argon results in high weld quality and good appearance. Another common shielding gas, helium, is most often used to increase the weld penetration in a joint, to increase the welding speed, and to weld metals with high heat conductivity, such as copper and aluminum. A significant disadvantage is the difficulty of striking an arc with helium gas, and the decreased weld quality associated with a varying arc length.
Argon-helium mixtures are also frequently utilized in GTAW, since they can increase control of the heat input while maintaining the benefits of using argon. Normally, the mixtures are made with primarily helium (often about 75% or higher) and a balance of argon. These mixtures increase the speed and quality of the AC welding of aluminum, and also make it easier to strike an arc. Another shielding gas mixture, argon-hydrogen, is used in the mechanized welding of light gauge stainless steel, but because hydrogen can cause porosity, its uses are limited.[20] Similarly, nitrogen can sometimes be added to argon to help stabilize the austenite in austentitic stainless steels and increase penetration when welding copper. Due to porosity problems in ferritic steels and limited benefits, however, it is not a popular shielding gas additive.[21]
Gas tungsten arc welding is most commonly used to weld stainless steel and nonferrous materials, such as aluminum and magnesium, but it can be applied to nearly all metals, with notable exceptions being lead and zinc. Its applications involving carbon steels are limited not because of process restrictions, but because of the existence of more economical steel welding techniques, such as gas metal arc welding and shielded metal arc welding. Furthermore, GTAW can be performed in a variety of other-than-flat positions, depending on the skill of the welder and the materials being welded.[22]

Aluminum and magnesium are most often welded using alternating current, but the use of direct current is also possible, depending on the properties desired. Before welding, the work area should be cleaned and may be preheated to 175 to 200 °C (350 to 400 °F) for aluminum or to a maximum of 150 °C (300 °F) for thick magnesium workpieces to improve penetration and increase travel speed. AC current can provide a self-cleaning effect, removing the thin, refractory aluminium oxide (sapphire) layer that forms on aluminium metal within minutes of exposure to air. This oxide layer must be removed for welding to occur. When alternating current is used, pure tungsten electrodes or zirconiated tungsten electrodes are preferred over thoriated electrodes, as the latter are more likely to "spit" electrode particles across the welding arc into the weld. Blunt electrode tips are preferred, and pure argon shielding gas should be employed for thin workpieces. Introducing helium allows for greater penetration in thicker workpieces, but can make arc starting difficult.
Direct current of either polarity, positive or negative, can be used to weld aluminum and magnesium as well. Direct current with a positively charged electrode (DCEP) allows for high penetration, Short arc length (generally less than 2 mm or 0.07 in) gives the best results, making the process better suited for automatic operation than manual operation. Shielding gases with high helium contents are most commonly used with DCEN, and thoriated electrodes are suitable. Direct current with a negatively charged electrode (DCEN) is used primarily for shallow welds, especially those with a joint thickness of less than 1.6 millimeters (0.06 in). A thoriated tungsten electrode is commonly used, along with a pure argon shielding gas.[23]
Steels
For GTA welding of carbon and stainless steels, the selection of a filler material is important to prevent excessive porosity. Oxides on the filler material and workpieces must be removed before welding to prevent contamination, and immediately prior to welding, alcohol or acetone should be used to clean the surface. Preheating is generally not necessary for mild steels less than one inch thick, but low alloy steels may require preheating to slow the cooling process and prevent the formation of martensite in the heat-affected zone. Tool steels should also be preheated to prevent cracking in the heat-affected zone. Austenitic stainless steels do not require preheating, but martensitic and ferritic chromium stainless steels do. A DCEN power source is normally used, and thoriated electrodes, tapered to a sharp point, are recommended. Pure argon is used for thin workpieces, but helium can be introduced as thickness increases.[24]
7. Install Tungsten
Place the tungsten into the collet. Leave about 1/8 to 1/4 in. sticking out of the collet (not more than the diameter of the cup). Tighten the back cap.

Torch Placement
Hold the TIG torch in your hand at a 70° or 80° angle. Raise the torch so that the tungsten is off of the work piece no more than 1/8 to 1/4 in. Don't let the tungsten touch the work piece or it will contaminate your material and you will need to regrind your tungsten.
4. Filler Metal
Pick up your filler metal in your other hand so it rests horizontally at a 15° angle from the work piece - not pointed down. Heat up the base metal and gently dab the filler into the puddle. Dab rather quickly so you don't leave large deposits.
What can I do to improve arc starting?

• Use the smallest diameter tungsten possible for the amperage you are using. Match the tungsten electrode size with the collet size.
• Purchase the highest quality tungsten available - ask your distributor for Miller-branded tungsten.
• Use a premium quality torch and work leads.
• Keep the torch and work leads as short as possible and move the power source as close as possible to the work.
• Make sure the Stick electrode holder is detached from the machine before TIG welding.
• Check and tighten all connections.
• Keep the torch cable from contacting any grounded metal.
• Use 100% argon shielding gas.
• When welding aluminum, use AC current and a ceriated (orange identifying band) or 1.5% lanthanated (gold identifying band) tungsten.
• When welding steel and stainless steel, use DC-Straight Polarity (DCEN) and a 2% thoriated (red identifying band) tungsten . Prepare a pointed-end.
• Always use a push technique with the TIG torch.
• When welding a fillet, the leg of the weld should be equal to the thickness of the parts welded.
Why would I use Ceriated or Thoriated tungsten instead of Pure?

With the introduction of new power source technologies, the use of pure tungsten is decreasing.
Pure tungsten melts at a lower temperature causing it to easily form a rounded ball at the tip. When the ball grows too large, it interferes with your ability to see the weld puddle and causes the arc to become unstable.
Ceriated tungsten can withstand higher temperatures and works very well with the new squarewave and inverter machines for the following reasons:
• Holds a point longer and starts well at low amperages.
• Can be used on both AC and DC polarities. When welding aluminum, it has become very acceptable to grind a point on ceriated tungsten (especially when welding on thinner materials).
• Allows welding amperages to be increased by 25-30% compared to Pure tungsten of the same diameter.

Types of Tungsten Electrodes
Type of Tungsten (Alloy) Color Code Remarks
Pure Green

Provides good arc stability for AC welding. Reasonably good resistance to contamination. Lowest current carrying capacity. Least expensive. Maintains a balled end.
Ceriated
CeO2
1.8% to 2.2% Orange

Similar performance to thoriated tungsten. Easy arc starting, good arc stability, long life. Possible replacement for thoriated.
Thoriated
ThO2
1.7% to 2.2% Red

Easier arc starting. Higher current capacity. Greater arc stability. High resistance to weld pool contamination. Difficult to maintain balled end on AC.
Lanthanated
La2O3
1.3% to 1.7% Gold

Similar performance to thoriated tungsten. Easy arc starting, good arc stability, long life, high current capacity. Possible replacement for thoriated.
Zirconiated
ZrO2
0.15% to 0.40% Brown

Excellent for AC welding due to favorable retention of balled end, high resistance to contamination, and good arc starting. Preferred when tungsten contamination of weld is intolerable.

Typical Current Ranges for Tungsten Electrodes
Tungsten Diameter Gas Cup (Inside Dia.) Typical Current Range (Amps)
Direct Current, DC Alternating Current,
AC
DCEN 70% Penetration (50/50) Balanced Wave AC

Ceriated

Thoriated

Lanthanated
Pure
Ceriated

Thoriated

Lanthanated
Pure
Ceriated

Thoriated

Lanthanated
.040 #5 (3/8 in) 15-80 20-60 15-80 10-30 20-60
.060 (1/16 in) #5 (3/8 in) 70-150 50-100 70-150 30-80 60-120
.093 (3/32 in) #8 (1/2 in) 150-250 100-160 140-235 60-130 100-180
.125 (1/8 in) #8 (1/2 in) 250-400 150-200 225-325 100-180 160-250
All values are based on the use of Argon as a shielding gas. Other current values may be employed depending on the shielding gas, type of equipment, and application.
DCEN = Direct Current Electrode Negative (Straight Polarity).
________________________________________
Recommended Current Type, Tungsten and Gas for TIG Welding
Metal Thickness Type of Current Tungsten Shielding Gas
Aluminum All AC Pure
Ceriated
Thoriated
Lanthanated Argon
All AC Squarewave Ceriated
Thoriated
Lanthanated Argon
over 1/4" AC Ceriated
Thoriated
Lanthanated Argon
Copper, copper alloys All DCEN Ceriated
Thoriated
Argon
Magnesium alloys All AC Ceriated
Thoriated
Lanthanated Argon
Plain carbon, steels All DCEN Ceriated
Thoriated
Lanthanated Argon
Stainless steel All DCEN Ceriated
Thoriated
Lanthanated Argon
With GTAW, high frequency is used to stabilize the arc. During
the negative half of the AC cycle, electron flow is from the
relatively small tungsten electrode to the much wider area of
the pool on the workpiece. During the positive half cycle the
flow is from the pool to the electrode. Aluminum and magnesium
are poorer emitters of electrons when they are hot and
molten than the hot tungsten. Plus the area of current flow on
the molten weld pool is so much larger than the area on the
end of the tungsten. The arc has a tendency to wander and
become unstable. Because the high frequency provides an
ionized path for the current to follow, arc re-ignition is much
easier and the arc becomes more stable. Some power
sources use high frequency for starting the arc only and
some allow continuous high frequency to take advantage of
its stabilizing characteristics.
Primary
Current
(60 Hz)
DCEP +
DCEN - High Frequency
(over 16,000 Hz)
15
Control Setting
OFF
Continuous
Start only

High frequency for Al and Mg on AC. HF start for DCEN and DCEP. Off for stick welding.

Tig = constant current
Mig = constant voltage

The rate of coolant flow through the torch is important. Rates
that are too low may decrease cooling efficiency. Rates that
are too high damage the torch and service line. The direction
the coolant flows through the torch is critical. It should flow
from the coolant source directly through the water hose to
the torch head. The torch head is the hottest spot in the
coolant system and should be cooled first with the coolant at
its most efficient thermal transfer temperature. This coolant
upon leaving the torch head should cool the electrode power
cable on its return to the re-circulating system.
My notes on Tig

I am no expert by ANY means, but here are some of the things i've learned.

Grind both sides of the tungsten so you can flip it quick when you dip the tip. If you touch or dip the tip the spray will get wide and suck. I don't care if you just nicked it, it needs to be reground. At first it was tricky because i didn't know what the arc was supposed to look like, but after a bit you will know when its not right.

Use enough heat so you can move at a moderate pace. If you have to hold the torch for 5 seconds to get it to pool a the next bead, then you need more pedal or a higher amp setting.

DO NOT use steel gas (Ar /CO2). I figured what the hell, i'm welding on steel. WRONG, the electrode just burned up in seconds. Only use pure Ar.

Make sure the metal is SUPER CLEAN.


My Mig Tips


Still no expert by any means, but i have had a fair bit of practice.

1. Hold the torch 90degrees perpendicular to the weld joint and about 75 degrees parallel to the joint facing the direction of the weld.
2. The "stick out" should be about 1/8 to 1/4". If you stop welding and have over 1/2" of wire sticking out you probably had too much stick out.
3. If the wire "bottoms out" you have WAY too much wire speed or WAY too little voltage.
4. If the arc runs up towards the torch you have too much voltage, or too little wire speed.
5. Use enough gas flow. If you are welding outside and there is even a little breeze it will blow the gas out of the weld area and you get worm holes and volcanoes. I try and weld inside as much as possible, and shield the wind when outside.
6. I use the smallest wire gauge and it seems to work best for me. I like half circles, and a triangle pattern (pointed in the direction of the weld).
7. Get a good helmet with a BIG view. Autodark rules!! I went form a cheap autodark to a speedglass 9000x (view is about 2x bigger) and my welds started turning out WAY better because i could see what i was doing.
8. It should sound like bacon. If its popping too much there may be too much voltage. I follow the settings on my box, but sometimes i'll tweak the wire speed to make it sound better. Dialing by sound seems to work best for me. One hand on the speed knob, and the other burning some metal of the correct thickness.
9. Make sure to grind off all the paint / crap before you weld. If you try and weld over painted stuff it will look like junk with worm holes and volcanoes. (trust me i've tried because i'm lazy, and figured "the paint will burn off before i get there" WRONG!)

Hope this helps some. Most was learned from a few books and learning what NOT to do!
 
#10 ·
Hi! This would be great if there was info for someone of 0 welding knowledge like me. For instance, what are the different kinds of welders, and what are the different types used for? I see some with sparkler looking things, others with wire, some have gas canisters. I don't know what any of that stuff is! What would be an effective, economical set-up for an extreme beginner who wants to, say, work on a Jeep? I want to learn this stuff, but I was never given the opportunity. I can turn a wrench all day, but this is all foreign to me. Thanks for the stuff you've put up so far (I just want to be able to understand it!)
 
#12 ·
Hey Folks - I'm new to the site and I am in the process of restoring an old Orville Meyers top for my CJ. I also work in the welding field and have for the past 23 years. I am a District Sales Manager for a gas company and do a great deal of training and hands on work. If I can be any help to anyone in regards to welding, let me know. I would be more than happy to discuss process, procedure or equipment.

T
 
#13 ·
Hey Folks - I'm new to the site and I am in the process of restoring an old Orville Meyers top for my CJ. I also work in the welding field and have for the past 23 years. I am a District Sales Manager for a gas company and do a great deal of training and hands on work. If I can be any help to anyone in regards to welding, let me know. I would be more than happy to discuss process, procedure or equipment.

T
I am also looking for guidance on a home / hobby / Jeep and maybe marine (reads s.s, aluminum) welder. I am familiar with the basics. The Lincoln and Miller sites are very helpful. They suggest defining what your needs will be, and match the process and machine to that. Makes sense. Cost is a very limiting factor. I'm so tempted to try one of the HF machines, but my spidey senses really act up when I'm standing in the store in front of them! I'm hoping I can get what is adequate for around $400, maybe used, or maybe Northern Tool, Eastwood or Everlast, but I'd rather stick with the well known 3.

My problem is I am not sure what I'm gonna run in to. I think my needs run from auto type sheet metal to rebar to maybe hitch type steel (is 3/16 heavy enough for rock sliders / bumpers, build a 1/4 ton or so utility trailer or will I need 1/4" capability)? Is it viable to figure on enough machine for the 3/16" scenario and figure on multiple passes for anything heavier?

It seems most people recommend a Mig/FluxCore combo. I'm leaning towards stick with both AC / DC capability due to simplicity, and I'm taking a basic welding course at the local Vo-Tech, which is all stick. So, I don't have the drawback of stick requiring relatively more skill; we are about half way through the course and I am just starting to really understand what I am seeing and how what I am doing affects the weld pool, but I still basically suck at it. Best $300 I ever spent though. I'm proud of my slag burns!! haha.

Then theres the power supply voltage. Can you realistically do the above on 115v? My gut tells me no, we need 230v power.

So, chime in and help clarify what to look for or expect, I see lots of us want to melt some metal! WoooHooooo!!!:wave::wave:

(note the spiffy spool gun in my new avatar, I think Stewies arc is a bit too long, and I think if you squint it makes up for not wearing a helmet. lol)
 
#16 ·
Upgrade your Harbor Freight 151 240v Dual Mig Welder.

Mod-Your-151 How-To Guide

I bought a floor model for $107. With the $50 in mods, it's as good as the name brands.
 
#21 ·
I got a question about overhead welding. When I weld down everything looks good and holds fine but when I start to weld things at an angle or upside down they start to bubble and look like crap. Any tips? I'm using a 220 hobart with solid core wire and gas

Sent from my DroidX because I should be doing something else
 
#23 ·
everything was clean, its the wire thats bubbling i think, it looks good usually until i stop then the end bubbles up and looks like it has gaps in it
 
#25 ·
thanks ill give that a try when i get home. its really a pain because it looks so nice straight down but you put me on a little angle and it totally blows lol
 
#26 ·
Five Tips to Improve Stick Welding
Shellfish can make you a better welder. Simply think about CLAMS: Current setting, Length of arc, Angle of electrode, Manipulation of the electrode and Speed of travel. If you're just learning the Stick process, technically called Shielded Metal Arc Welding, remembering these five points will improve your welding technique.
Q: I see the word "duty cycle" on product spec sheets? What does that mean?
A: Duty cycle is the number of minutes out of a 10-minute cycle a welder can operate. For example, a 200 amp DC output at 20 percent duty cycle. It can weld continuously at 200 amps for two minutes, and then must cool for eight minutes to prevent overheating.
Duty cycle and amperage are inversely proportional. Operating at 90 amps, the welder has a 100 percent duty cycle, meaning you can weld without stopping. This inversely proportional rule is true of all Miller machines but does not apply to all machines made by other companies.
]
Q: What type of rod should I use for general work on steel?
A: Common electrodes used for general work include 6010, 6011, 6013, 7018 and 7024, each of which has specific properties: 6010 electrodes penetrate deeply, while 6013 electrodes penetrate less. For much better bead appearance and work on higher strength steels (say for a hitch), use a 7018 rod. For better penetration on thick material, grind the joint to a 30 degree bevel and make multiple passes. Alternatively, make the first pass with a 6010 rod, then make a "cap" with a 7018. , .
Q: Do I have to remove rust or oil before welding?
A: Stick welding is more forgiving on unclean conditions, but it never hurts to clean parts with a wire brush or grind off excess rust. If you prepare well and have average welding ability, you can make a sound weld. However, even great welding skill cannot overcome poor preparation, as it can lead to cracking, lack of fusion and slag inclusions.
Remember CLAMS
Now that you're ready to weld, remember CLAMS. Bringing all these points together in one moment of welding may seem like a lot to think about, but it becomes second nature with practice. And don't get discouraged! Stick welding got its name not because the electrode looks like a stick, but because EVERYONE sticks the rod to the workpiece when learning how to weld.

Current setting: The correct current, or amperage, setting primarily depends on the diameter and type of electrode selected. For example, a 3.25mm. 6010 rod runs well from 75 to 125 amps, while a 5mm. 7018 rod welds at currents up to 220 amps. The side of the electrode box usually indicates operating ranges. Select an amperage based on the material's thickness, welding position (about 15 percent less heat for overhead work compared to a flat weld) and observation of the finished weld. Most new welding machines have a permanent label that recommends amperage settings for a variety of electrodes and material thicknesses
.
Length of arc: The correct arc length varies with each electrode and application. As a good starting point, arc length should not exceed the diameter of the metal portion (core) of the electrode. Holding the electrode too closely decreases welding voltage. This creates an erratic arc that may extinguish itself or cause the rod to freeze, as well as produces a weld bead with a high crown. Excessively long arcs (too much voltage) produce spatter, low deposition rates, undercuts and maybe porosity.
Many beginners weld with too long of an arc, so they produce rough beads with lots of spatter. A little practice will show you that a tight, controlled arc length improves bead appearance, creates a narrower bead and minimizes spatter
.
Angle of travel: Stick welding in the flat, horizontal and overhead position uses a "drag" or "backhand" welding technique. Hold the rod perpendicular to the joint and tilt the top of the electrode in the direction of travel approximately 5 to 15 degrees. For welding vertical up, use a "push" or "forehand" technique and tilt the top of the rod 15 degrees away from the direction of travel.

Manipulation: Each welder manipulates or weaves the electrode in a unique style. Develop your own style by observing others, practicing and creating a method that produces good results for you. Note that on material 1/4 in. and thinner, weaving the rod typically creates a bead that is wider than necessary. In many instances, plain, straight-ahead travel works fine.
To create a wider bead on thicker material, manipulate the electrode from side to side creating a continuous series of partially overlapping circles, or in a "Z," semi-circle or stutter-step pattern. Limit side-to-side motion to 2-1/2 times the diameter of the electrode core. To cover a wider area, make multiple passes or "stringer beads."
When welding vertical up, focus on welding the sides of the joint and the middle will take care of itself. Pause slightly at the side to allow the far side of the bead to cool, the weld puddle to catch up, and to ensure solid "tie-in" to the sidewall. If your weld looks like fish scales, you moved forward too quickly and didn't hold long enough on the sides.

Speed of travel: The proper travel speed produces a weld bead with the desired contour (or "crown"), width and appearance. Adjust travel speed so that the arc stays within the leading one-third of the weld pool. Slow travel speeds produce a wide, convex bead with shallow penetration. Excessively high travel speeds also decrease penetration, create a narrower and/or highly crowned bead, and possibly undercuts.
A few last words of advice. Always remember that you need a good view of the weld puddle. Otherwise, you can't ensure you're welding in the joint, keeping the arc on the leading edge of the puddle and using the right amount of heat (you can actually see a puddle with too much heat roll out of the joint). For the best view, keep your head off to the side and out of the smoke so you can easily see the puddle.
Also remember that you learn through mistakes. There's no shame in grinding out bad welds. In fact, professional welders create perfect welds by recognizing imperfections, grinding them out and rewelding.


excerps from miller welding
so remember clams it will be a start in the right direction
__________________




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AND MORE FOR THE LAYMAN
Welding Terms Glossary
.
Alternating Current (AC): An electrical current that reverses its direction at regular intervals, such as 60
cycles alternating current (AC), or 60 hertz (Hz).

Amperage: The measurement of the amount of electricity flowing past a given point in a conductor per
second. Current is another name for amperage.

Annealing: The opposite of hardening. A heat treating process used to soften a metal and relieve internal
stresses.

Arc: The physical gap between the end of the electrode and the base metal. The physical gap causes heat
due to resistance of current flow and arc rays.

Arc Length: Distance or air space between the tip of the electrode and the work
.
Arc Voltage: Measured across the welding arc between the electrode tip and the surface of the weld
pool.

Axis of Weld: Can be thought of as an imaginary line through the center of a weld, lengthwise.

Back Gouging: The removal of weld metal and base metal from the other side (root side) of a weld joint.
When this gouged area is welded, complete penetration of the weld
joint is assured
.
Bevel Angle: An angle formed between a plane, perpendicular to the surface of the base metal and the
prepared edge of the base metal. This angle refers to the metal that has been removed.

Butt Joint: A weldment where the material surfaces and joining edges are in or near the same plane.

Cold Lap: See preferred term Incomplete Fusion.

Conductor: An electrical path where current will flow with the least amount of resistance. Most metals are
good electrical conductors.

Corner Joint: Produced when the weld members meet at approximately 90o to each other in the shape
of an “L”.

Crater: A depression at the end of a weld bead.

Current: Another name for amperage. The amount of electricity flowing past a point in a conductor every
second.

Defect: One or more discontinuities that exceed the acceptance criteria as specified for a weld.

Depth of Fusion: The depth or distance that deposited weld metal extends into the base metal or the
previous pass
.
Direct Current: Flows in one direction and does not reverse its direction of flow as does alternating current.

Direct Current Electrode Negative (DCEN): The specific direction of current flow through a welding circuit
when the electrode lead is connected to the negative terminal and the work lead is connected to the positive
terminal of a DC welding machine.

Direct Current Electrode Positive (DCEP): The specific direction of current flow through a welding circuit
when the electrode lead is connected to a positive terminal and the work lead is connected to a negative
terminal to a DC welding machine.

Distortion: The warpage of a metal due to the internal residual stresses remaining after welding from metal
expansion (during heating), and contraction (during cooling).

Duty Cycle: The number of minutes out of a 10-minute time period an arc welding machine can be operated
at maximum rated output. An example would be 60% duty cycle at 300 amps. This would mean that
at 300 amps the welding machine can be used for 6 minutes and then must be allowed to cool with the fan
motor running for 4 minutes. (Some imported welding machines are based on a 5-minute cycle).

Edge Joint: A joint that occurs when the surfaces of the two pieces of metal to be joined are parallel or
nearly parallel, and the weld is made along their edges.

Electrode Extension: While welding, the length of electrode extending beyond the end of the gas cup.
Also referred to as electrical stickout.

Electron: A very small atomic particle which carries a negative electrical charge. Electrons can move from
one place to another in atomic structures. It is electrons that move when electrical current flows in an
electrical conductor.

Excessive Melt-Through: A weld defect occurring in a weld joint when weld metal no longer fuses the
base metals being joined. Rather, the weld metal falls through the weld joint or “burns through”. Also
referred to as excess penetration.

Face: The surface of the weld as seen from the side of the joint on which the weld was made.

Face Rotation: Can be thought of as an imaginary line from the axis of the weld through the center of the
welds face. This face rotation angle along with the axis angle determine the actual welding position. Face
rotation is measured in a clockwise direction starting from the 6 o’clock position. A weld with the face rotation
at 12 o’clock would have the face rotation at 180o.

Ferrous: Refers to a metal that contains primarily iron, such as steel, stainless steel and cast iron.

Filler Metal: The metal added when making a welded, brazed, or soldered joint.

Fillet Weld: A weld that is used to join base metal surfaces that are approximately 90o to each other, as
used on T-joint, corner joint or lap joint. The cross sectional shape of a fillet weld is approximately triangular.

Fit-Up: Often used to refer to the manner in which two members are brought together to be welded, such
as the actual space or any clearance or alignment between two members to be welded. Proper fit-up is
important if a good weld is to be made. Tacking, clamping or fixturing is often done to ensure proper fit-up.
Where it applies, base metal must be beveled correctly and consistently. Also, any root openings or joint
angles must be consistent for the entire length of a joint. An example of poor fit-up can be too large of a
root opening in a V-groove butt weld.

Flat Position: When welding is done from the top side of a joint, it is in the flat position if the face of the
weld is approximately horizontal. Sometimes referred to as downhand welding. The axis angle can be from
0o–15o in either direction from a horizontal surface. Face rotation can be from 150o – 210o.

Freeze Lines: The lines formed across a weld bead.They are the result of the weld pool freezing. In appearance
they sometimes look as if one tiny weld was continuously laid upon another.

Groove Angle: When a groove is made between two materials to be joined together, the groove angle
represents the total size of the angle between the two beveled edges and denotes the amount of material
that is to be removed.

Ground Connection: A safety connection from a welding machine frame to the earth. Often used for
grounding an engine driven welding machine where a cable is connected from a ground stud on the welding
machine to a metal stake placed in the ground. See Work Connection for the difference between work
connection and ground connection.

Ground Lead: When referring to the connection from the welding machine to the work, see preferred
term Work Lead.

Heat Affected Zone (HAZ): The portion of a weldment that has not melted, but has changed due to the
heat of welding. The HAZ is between the weld deposit and the unaffected base metal. The physical makeup
or mechanical properties of this zone are different after welding.

Heat Sink: A good weld needs a certain amount of base metal to absorb the high heat input from the
welding arc area. The more base metal, or the thicker the base metal, the better heat sink effect. If this
heat sink is not present, too much heat will stay in the weld area, and defects can occur.

Horizontal Position: Occurs when the axis of the weld is from 0o–15o from the horizontal, and the face
rotation is from either 80o –150o or 210o – 280o for groove welds, or from either 125o –150o or 210o–
235o for fillet welds.

Included Groove Angle: See preferred term Groove Angle.

Incomplete Fusion: Molten filler metal rolling over a weld edge but failing to fuse to the base metal. Also
referred to as cold lap.

Inverter: Power source which increases the frequency of the incoming primary power, thus providing for a
smaller size machine and improved electrical characteristics for welding, such as faster response time and
more control for waveshaping and pulse welding.

Joint Design: A cross-sectional design and the given measurements for a particular weld. Generally
includes included angles, root opening, root face, etc.

Joint Root: That part of a joint that comes closes together where the weld is to be made. This maybe an
area of the joint or just a line or point of that joint.

Lap Joint: A joint that is produced when two or more members of a weldment overlap one another.

Load Voltage: Measured at the output terminals of a welding machine while a welder is welding. It
includes the arc voltage (measured while welding), and the voltage drop through connections and weld
cables.

Open Circuit Voltage (OCV): As the name implies, no current is flowing in the circuit because the circuit
is open. The voltage is impressed upon the circuit, however, so that when the circuit is completed, the current
will flow immediately. For example, a welding machine that is turned on but not being used for welding
at the moment will have an open circuit voltage applied to the cables attached to the output terminals
of the welding machine
.
Output Control: An electrical switch that is used to energize or de-energize output terminals of a welding
machine. In some types of welding machines they can be of solid state design, with no moving parts and
thus no arcing of contact points.

Overhead Position: When the axis angle is from 0o – 80o and the face rotation is from 0o – 80o or 280o–
360o for groove welds or from 0o – 125o or 235o – 360o for fillet welds, the weld position is considered to
be in the overhead position.

Parameters: The welding settings on a welding machine such as voltage and amperage, normally read
on a volt meter and an amp meter. It may also include things as travel speed, electrode size, torch angle,
electrode extension and weld joint position and preparation.
__________________


Proud member of the "She'll Be Right" Gang
yes LEZ is my brother
 
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