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  Topic Review (Newest First)
03-13-2013 05:35 PM
SubAtomicGenius My best advice: if you are inclined to do WATER CROSSINGS on a regular basis - buy a 5-gallon pail of dino diff fluid. No matter what you do, if you are doing water crossings, your oil will get milky from water ingress. Dino oil (certified to the right APA spec) will provide the best lubrication at the best price for frequent diff oil changes.

Sure, the benefits of synthetic diff oil are nice until you get milky synthetic oil and have to change it out at 3-4x the cost.
03-13-2013 10:05 AM
ferninaz I use 75-140 synthetic in both my front D30 with an Aussie Locker and rear D44 with the Limited Slip nonsense that Jeep goes with.
03-13-2013 08:59 AM
krysmondello I have a JK 09 the rear differential is being replaced by the dealer under warranty, 42K miles, yours might be under warranty. Were your rear brakes bad?
03-11-2013 11:50 AM
JeffinWesternWA I've found in the past, even though "no additive is needed that several manufacturers of lube advertise", that at least with Auburn Posi units, that factory LS additive is still needed as they will balk and bind a bit w/o it, so my advice is to add the xysler additive to any posi unit regardlesss of lube used...Overall if a gear set is noisy, binds, balks (tranny or rear) that Redline fluids have made a difference, otherwise I gow/ M1 forteh ease of finding it and price, I like 75w-90 as I don't tow or have any severre duty and try to squeeze every mpg possible ut of my JK, it's averaged 20.0 mpg in 21K+ miles, best of 22+ highway so far..
03-10-2013 11:38 PM
OregonVette The 2008 Jeep JK owners manual suggests that The additive is only needed for vehicles with the Optional TracLok. Iirc, all Saharas came from the factory with Trac Lok included.
As such, i use Lucas Oil full synth 75-90 because it already has the additives included. No additional additives are needed.

To change front diff fluid:
Unbolt 3/8 socket plug at bottom of diff.
Drain the stuff that stinks like dead animals
Put 3/8 plug back into diff. Tighten it.
Loosen and remove top 3/8 plug
add one quart of LucasOil 75-90
Put 3/8 plug back in the diff cover

Drive away...

How to change rear diff fluid:
Unbolt 3/8 socket plug at bottom of diff.
Drain the stuff that stinks like dead animals
Put 3/8 plug back into diff. Tighten it.
Loosen and remove top 3/8 plug
add two quart of LucasOil 75-90
Put 3/8 plug back in the diff cover.


Drive away...




You can use a handy pump tube to squeeze the new lube into the diff. Very handy. They cost $5


You can also use different brands and oil weight, 75-90, 80-90, 85-140, 75-140 Dino or Synth. Whatever. People have their own preferences. Personally, I just go with the owners manual. Ymmv.
03-10-2013 07:21 PM
Prot 75-140 synthetic here in both my front D30 and rear D44. The synthetic helps with the temperature. Mopar recommends 75-140 for towing and severe duty. The shop that installed my 5.13 gears recommends synthetic 75-140. BTW, I am getting my rear differential rebuilt with a Yukon Zip Air Locker on April 2.
03-09-2013 05:41 PM
Wavedatya 80-90 front 75-140 rear with L S additive. I use amsoil in the rear. Regular cheap stuff in the front

I tow. I cheated last two times but will take dif cover off this spring and do the seals again.
03-09-2013 05:31 PM
JIMBOX I use the Valvoline 75w-140 in both diffs-

MOPAR even recommends a syn 75w-140 use, for off-road/HD and towing--

JIMBO
03-09-2013 11:11 AM
JeffinWesternWA If not towing, wouldn't 80W(75W) -90 be a bit better for mileage? that's a pretty thick brew, I prefer the syns (if not having to change often from water immersion), though I still add the Xysler Posi additive to my LS rear...The Mobil One 75W-90 gives me good service w/ an extended interval...(though I prefer the Red Line when I have an application thats stubborn or needs special attention)
03-09-2013 07:19 AM
xzy A lot of guys on bitog love synthetics but not for the diffs. Seems they think non synthetic is better in this application. I'm running 85/140 Castrol in the rear diff. Cost about $7.00 a quart.
03-09-2013 06:36 AM
Prot
Quote:
Originally Posted by mikesewell
Someone mentioned in this thread -- that using a Fluid Pump is the way to go and to have one for all the different fluids. My question is what is the name of the pump? Brand? Where do you get it? About to do the diff fluid change and I could see where trying to get these bottles to tip could be a big problem.
The pump is usually right on the shelf in the store next to the gear oil.
03-08-2013 08:23 PM
mikesewell
Someone mentioned using a Fluid Pump? What brand / Where does one pick this up?

Someone mentioned in this thread -- that using a Fluid Pump is the way to go and to have one for all the different fluids. My question is what is the name of the pump? Brand? Where do you get it? About to do the diff fluid change and I could see where trying to get these bottles to tip could be a big problem.
02-29-2012 03:48 PM
wheels082 I use have been using Amsoil gear lube in my Jeeps for years, including the JK. No additional additives are required with Amsoil.
02-29-2012 02:26 PM
JeepCares
Quote:
Originally Posted by SMOA View Post
I have a 2010 unlimited with the factory tow package. How can I tell if I have a limited slip rear end? Is it in the vin or stamped on the differential?
You can go to http://www.jeep.com/JeepCares . (This is NOT me.)

Enter the required information and tell them you are looking for your build sheet.

Build Sheets list all the standard and optional factory equipment on a specific vehicle. Note: this is how the vehicle was built at the factory.
02-28-2012 12:01 PM
SMOA I have a 2010 unlimited with the factory tow package. How can I tell if I have a limited slip rear end? Is it in the vin or stamped on the differential?
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