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Thread: Major Repair, Mean Max's AX-15 Rebuild QUESTION THREAD!!!! Reply to Thread
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  Topic Review (Newest First)
04-25-2018 12:34 PM
fishadventure
Quote:
Originally Posted by sheza65
Or just buy one. I did recently. It was $3.99 at Advance Auto and had it quickly vs $1.99 at Quadratec & waiting a bit longer for shipping. The OMIX-ADA Part # is 18886.25 and the description is for an AX5, but it is the correct part for the AX15 too. https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...625/10185326-P If you need the first gear thrust washer too it is OMIX-ADA Part # 18887.34. https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...734/10185277-P
Cool. This will be useful for some folks I'm sure.

Buying isn't always an option, and money isn't always the obstacle... I wasn't willing to wait and nobody local had anything. It took less time to make it than the first auto parts store call I made so I wouldn't waste my time. Never mind IF they had it the 55-60 minute round trip to get it is what I mean.

I posted the specs for it as I couldn't find them in the manual and figured someone else might want to know what to do. Sometimes NOW is the right time for folks, not several days later. You CAN buy almost anything; you DON'T always have to.
Cheers
04-25-2018 09:17 AM
sheza65
Quote:
Originally Posted by fishadventure View Post
Mean Max mentions to not lose this pin for first gear spacer... If you do- or in my case, find it damaged- you can make one.
Or just buy one. I did recently. It was $3.99 at Advance Auto and had it quickly vs $1.99 at Quadratec & waiting a bit longer for shipping.
The OMIX-ADA Part # is 18886.25 and the description is for an AX5, but it is the correct part for the AX15 too.
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...625/10185326-P

If you need the first gear thrust washer too it is OMIX-ADA Part # 18887.34.
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...734/10185277-P
04-24-2018 07:11 AM
fishadventure
Quote:
Originally Posted by Opihi59 View Post
Personally... don’t have contempt of your own skills. Do it right. Replace it.
Translated it into Traditional Puritan English: impatience is not a virtue.

Mean Max mentions to not lose this pin for first gear spacer... If you do- or in my case, find it damaged- you can make one. I don't know the "factory" length, but the pin fits at 0.245" long. The undamaged portion of my pin was 0.177"; I cut mine from a 'free coupon' Harbor Freight screw driver shaft that measured 0.1805" diameter. I cut the shaft with a 1/8" disc in the angle grinder, chucked the shaft in a drill, and then while running drill at high speed I cut it to length with the disc grinder like a crude lathe - leaving a tiny center portion I could break off so I didn't lose the piece. Again chucking in the drill I dressed to length and wire brushed the hard edges of both ends on the bench grinder. Or, you could go to hardware store and hope for the best? Making it was faster and guaranteed to fit.
04-23-2018 09:04 PM
Opihi59 Personally, I'd replace it. Sure reverse isn't used that often, but someone has failed to let the transmission spin down before going into reverse and likely has just jammed it in repeatedly. If you are capable of rebuilding, then the money you save from having to buy new, reman or pay someone else to do it (good luck w that) can be put into making sure you don't go into half measures. Don't compromise for a few bucks; don't have contempt of your own skills. Do it right.

Replace it.
04-23-2018 01:39 PM
fishadventure So I'm in the middle of a rebuild and I don't really want to wait for parts. Since this is the reverse idler I'm thinking its a low-risk risk to not replace it. From what I can tell something was dropped in the trans cuz this is the only evidence of damage but there's big pieces of somethings that aren't relatable to these little pieces of chipped teeth

I think someone had a bad 'event,' did a dirty rebuild replacing maybe the mains haft and bearings, and then just did what I'm thinking of doing: reused the chipped gear.

Right now I'm like 75% to buying a new one but I've seen other trans work fine with worse damage (the gear this meshes with is not damaged).

How stupid would it be to reuse it? Reverse gear handles a lot of torque.

Anybody got a used one? New on Amazon is like $50 or $55 (and up of corse!) I'd pay you for it obviously.
10-17-2017 02:51 PM
Mr.B Here's the link to the thread, I put it in Wrangler General Discussion, so more members can see it.


https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f176/.../#post39095969
10-17-2017 01:54 PM
Opihi59 Our mods are pretty sharp guys--they know when a thread is posted that is germane to multiple sub-forums, they sticky it across the board. If you don't see this happen, a quick PM to your favorite senior mod will yield results. They respond.
10-17-2017 12:56 PM
Mr.B I probably will. But it needs to go to all the forums, not just the YJ forum.
10-17-2017 12:07 PM
Opihi59 I haven't been on the forum as of late, and haven't seen recent traffic on photobucket fixes. If a thread doesn't exist as to how to resurrect our embedded photos, please post one up with all the details for those of us that aren't computer savvy, and it likely it will become a permanent sticky.
I know I have spent countless hours documenting builds, making useful threads with many many photos, and it seems without this fix, they've all been for nothing other than text perhaps. The photos make these threads useful.
Thanks for posting up this potential solution.
10-17-2017 07:43 AM
Mr.B
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.B View Post
I keep trying to post this info on old threads that have been killed by PBuckit. Here's a quote that I posted on another forum. It at least for now will allow you to see the pics in these old threads.


"I found a little relief for those of you that are blocked on PB. If you use Google Chrome, you can click on the link below. It will give you an option to add it to Chrome. Then when you click on a pic in PB. You will be able to see it, but you still won't be able to post them on the forum.

If you don't have Google Chrome, you can always get it. I use Firefox myself, but I do have Chrome also."

https://chrome.google.com/webstore/d...fegnfnflicjjgj


As an example, here is a Quote of post #5 in this thread. I had to copy the image and convert it to a jpg with MS paint, then attach it to the post. Kind of a PITA. I haven't been able to make this work on my phone though.

That add on above doesn't seem to be working anymore. Here is a new on that works.


https://chrome.google.com/webstore/d...er-info-dialog
10-06-2017 09:42 AM
Mr.B I keep trying to post this info on old threads that have been killed by PBuckit. Here's a quote that I posted on another forum. It at least for now will allow you to see the pics in these old threads.


"I found a little relief for those of you that are blocked on PB. If you use Google Chrome, you can click on the link below. It will give you an option to add it to Chrome. Then when you click on a pic in PB. You will be able to see it, but you still won't be able to post them on the forum.

If you don't have Google Chrome, you can always get it. I use Firefox myself, but I do have Chrome also."

https://chrome.google.com/webstore/d...fegnfnflicjjgj


As an example, here is a Quote of post #5 in this thread. I had to copy the image and convert it to a jpg with MS paint, then attach it to the post. Kind of a PITA. I haven't been able to make this work on my phone though.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Mean Max View Post
I think you probably have a bad input shaft bearing, as in the pic below.

Attachment 3490426

I just rebuilt an AX-5 that had the same issue. To answer your question, yes a full rebuild is in order.

Max
10-06-2017 09:05 AM
mark1305 Without going back through this whole thread I can't remember if I posted anything prior to my simple complaint about Photobucket on the previous page.

But, just in case I haven't.... When I changed the oil out in my AX-15 soon after getting the Jeep a few years ago I pretty much drained all the synchros out as brass flakes. Luckily I grew up in the 60s & 70s driving more sticks than autos and not all sticks were synchronized back then. Now this won't really apply if there is an issue with a pin placement on one of the shafts, but may help if its a synchro issue even though the box was rebuilt.

Mine demands a quick shift 1-2 at low speed. A slow shift 2-3 and 3-4 at whatever speed. I almost never use 5th even on the expressway near me. And its hard to get a smooth shift up to 5th and harder shifting down to 4th again. Sometimes I instinctively double clutch in downshifts anywhere from 4th down to 2nd and only shift to 1st at a stop. I use an axiom from when I was a motorcycle track day instructor that we pounded into students - brakes are for slowing but downshifts are for preparing for the next acceleration and not engine braking. Coming to red lights or stops in say 3rd gear I just clutch or go to N and coast to the stop using only brakes.

But on the routine downshifts it is almost an even split between double clutching or slightly more often just holding the clutch in and coasting around the corner or whatever and using gentle pressure on the stick to see if it will slip into the lower gear. If not, then the double clutch. It becomes a "feel" thing with the gearbox.

I have test driven a YJ with a good AX-15 so I know what I'm missing. But as long as mine doesn't puke steel chips and I can shift it old style I'll leave it alone. Still have to tackle the clutch over the so called cool and dry season down here during the winter.

And naturally I had planned on pulling my box and running it down to Mean Max when he was still in Stuart, just a couple hours away. Waited too long and he went up to the Midwest for a new career. Like the old saying, "Timing is everything".

Like I said, if not just a synchro type issue this may not help, or maybe help get by until another tear down.
10-06-2017 08:55 AM
coop2729 The pins were all put back in where they came from. When I try double clutching, I do rev it up in neutral but the result is the same. If I wasn't planning on selling it I would just continue to drive it as is, it really doesn't bother me that much. Over the past few days I've really been messing with it when driving to see if I could get it to go in and I actually did get it to shift down a few times. I got it to drop in by double clutching but when I move it down into 4th I wiggled it from side to side slightly around where 4th gear should be while pulling it down. It didn't drop right in but every once in awhile I could get it to down shift, most of the time I still had to got from 5th to 3rd.
10-05-2017 06:46 AM
fishadventure I'd probably listen to opihi anyway, but if at speed it goes into 3rd from 5th, and then WILL go into 4th, I'd just go with opihi59's suggestion and drive it. Just curious- when you're double clutching are you throttling up in neutral to spin the shaft faster? Then clutch-in and shifting to 4th?
When I read posts with mystery weirdness like this I always wish the poster was nearby so I could drive it. I'm no jeep guru but when I drive friends cars or trucks with mech-oddities the result after experiencing the problem is a light bulb coming on in my head
10-04-2017 01:21 PM
Opihi59 I've built a few of these AX 15s, Can't say I have encountered your issue before, and now after going thru the manual about 4 times, I really can't come up with a legitimate reason for this to happen, and of course a solution to your issue.
A few things come to mind but only weakly. We do know there is a reverse pin in the tail housing, it is designed to prevent you from going from 5th into reverse without moving across the neutral gate. Not sure if you removed this and then replaced it incorrectly, or it has a broken spring, but it's a thought. The other issue is the restrictor pins, you do know that there is a Left and a Right restrictor pin, they are not interchangeable even though they will screw in on either side. If you may have swapped left for right and vice versa, that's a real weak possibility. One of them has a stiffer spring and off the top of my head I can't recall which one is stiffer. Note that I say weak, but it's not a big deal to remove them and swap sides and see if that makes a difference, unless you absolutely know for certain that you did not swap them left for right in your rebuild. I always stamp mine with a die, or a pin punch with a little L or R before I remove them. Really not sure if this makes a functional difference AT ALL. I'd post up photos of this but thanks to Photosuckit......

Another thought is just let it go for a while, see if something doesn't bed in with a little mileage and get better with time. I know on at least one of my rebuilds it took a while for the synchros to bed in properly, and I felt at that time my error was going straight to Redline MT-90 synthetic rather than using another lube first, then changing over at 500 miles. I'm going to guess you're using an El Cheapo 10W-30 motor oil lube in your tranny like the rest of us. What leads me to this suggestion is that this transmission will make the 5 to 4 downshift stationary, or at low speeds. It can't be totally FUBAR or TARFU with this degree of function so drive it for a while and don't go all Jihad on it. Yet.

Good luck on this.
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