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  Topic Review (Newest First)
06-27-2020 08:34 PM
bruinjeeper it's the New Testament lol
06-27-2020 09:40 AM
Louie4 I feel like my build thread lives in my overheating thread now...


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05-24-2020 06:30 AM
fishadventure
Quote:
Originally Posted by Louie4 View Post
Ha! It’s rusty by my standards! I am from the South and moved to the southwest. I don’t know what real rust is! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I could send you some stuff to check out...

The plates and stuff for my ubolt flip came from a kind man AZdevilYJ in aridzona after the local junkyard pulled some that were nearly rusted through and wanted (I can’t remember) ?$80? for them.
Another time a junkyard wanted me to buy an 8.8 flange for $50 that was so rusted the cap webs were almost as thin as ujoint straps (and the spicer part brand new is only $45)

Some other rusty stuff that could educate you... I’ve had fuel filters rust out, shocks rust through, and even an oil leak once that turned out to be a cheapie oil filter that got a lot of tire-splash that took off the paint and it rusted out on that side.
And on to body work. You haven’t lived...
05-23-2020 10:21 PM
Louie4 Ha! Itís rusty by my standards! I am from the South and moved to the southwest. I donít know what real rust is!


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05-23-2020 09:56 PM
bruinjeeper
Quote:
Originally Posted by Louie4 View Post
I tried to install my 2 degree shims this afternoon but when I saw my u-bolts and put a wrench on them... I decided to just order more and cut the old off. The nuts were rusted and not budging.




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you call that rust?

sorry to hear about the temp woes though. I was actually (and oddly) excited when i saw that new shiny rad.
05-23-2020 10:17 AM
AZdEvilYJ
Quote:
Originally Posted by Louie4 View Post
So I bought a set of deep 1/2" drive impact sockets with my store credit at Harbor Freight (for the jack stands). I will probably wait until Ruff Stuff does their Father's Day sale and buy a new set.

Aside from the news about Mr. B, I'm bummed because my jeep crested over 210 during a short (maybe mile or two) drive down the interstate. I just put the new CSF three row radiator in hoping to resolve my overheating issue at speeds but I fear it's more complicated than new cooling parts.

Theyíre running a 15% off right now.


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05-22-2020 04:51 PM
222Doc reading your other post on the heat issue. Az is another world from where you were looking quickly through this post. wont be much mud here in AZ. you should love the rock though.

Sounds like you have done about everything you can do. Block may be full of rust its hard to say on that one( was said on a other thread). But that would be only if it was not maintained well. Not always the best solution but maybe a pusher fan, a big one set on a stat at say about 200*. wont cost much and should keep air going through at a speed the jeep could never reach. I have a old 2 gen Camaro that has built 454 Ls7 being a Z they had no air con. when i moved to Hell, i mean AZ. the day we moved here in LHC it was over 125*. that car was a death trap in this heat with all that heat off that block and headers etc. I added air con made by Vintage air and put two pushers in front. Has a flex solid fan to cut back of power robbing at 6,000+ rpms and just to much air. But here in AZ the ac added restriction of flow. I added those pushers and that car never sees over 200* ac on and here in hell. That is even at speeds i wont claim here. LONG distance speed too. it had a 44 gallon tank at one point in a Camaro with a 6 speed stick.

just a thought of a other fix. More air is like more cow bell.
05-22-2020 01:41 PM
Louie4 So I bought a set of deep 1/2" drive impact sockets with my store credit at Harbor Freight (for the jack stands). I will probably wait until Ruff Stuff does their Father's Day sale and buy a new set.

Aside from the news about Mr. B, I'm bummed because my jeep crested over 210 during a short (maybe mile or two) drive down the interstate. I just put the new CSF three row radiator in hoping to resolve my overheating issue at speeds but I fear it's more complicated than new cooling parts.
05-22-2020 12:55 PM
shaggyjim It’s not the best to reuse them but I must confess that I use a torque wrench and have used them more then once, more then once.
05-22-2020 10:32 AM
Louie4 Thanks Greg. I will check them out.

Iím not a sharp guy but I think John is saying my threads may be done for given the hi-nuts and thread pitch difference.


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05-22-2020 09:44 AM
AZdEvilYJ
Quote:
Originally Posted by Louie4 View Post
I was about to manhandle them but I stopped myself. Mainly because I do little bits of work during lunchtime. Iíve been working from home since mid-March and will keep WFH until 8/1. I would have probably got into more work than I wanted at the time.

I plan to return my Harbor Freight jack stands and get a 15/16Ē deep socket for my breaker bar and something I can use for my impact...then Iíll try again.


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I got a Stanley deep impact socket set on amazon for like $15. Theyíve been great


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05-22-2020 06:08 AM
jsawduste From RS web site https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com...g/U-BOLTS.html


Suspension U-Bolts are manufactured with a smooth rolled thread, while the mating Hi-Nuts are manufactured with sharp cut threads.

When a U-Bolt is tightened to its recommended torque level, the U-Bolt threads stretch as they mate with the Hi-Nuts. Although not always visible to the naked eye, this damages the threads. Removing the Hi-Nuts from the U-Bolt will cause a cross - threading that will not allow the U-bolt to be adequately retorqued.

Common practice in most maintenance facilities is to use an impact wrench to tighten U-Bolts. Consistent, accurate torque is next to impossible to obtain with an impact wrench, and in most cases, an over-torqued fastener is the result.

Our U-bolt manufacture recommends using a torque wrench when installing U-Bolts.




That said I had no problem reusing (GASP) a set just last week. The nuts twisted on and off by hand once removed the vehicle.


5/8 grade 8 torque spec is 170 lbs ft. Which is what the RS are.
5/8 grade 5 torque spec is 130 lbs ft.


Settled on 145 with a torque wrench.
05-22-2020 05:04 AM
fishadventure Impact doesn’t necessarily give you an advantage on ubolts. The ubolts twist with the application of torque, so they ‘act’ like a torque stick and nothing really happens.

A breaker bar and cheater; get some good torque on the nut with one hand, then whack the socket end with a three-pound hammer while you have pressure on it.

That may thread it off. But ubolts have the tall nuts because the bolts stretch during torquing. So they may start to turn and then bind because the thread pitch is ‘modified.’

Amazon used to have ProComp ubolt/nut sets for a very good price for Dana 30, 35, and 8.8s. Check them out.
05-21-2020 10:10 PM
Louie4 I was about to manhandle them but I stopped myself. Mainly because I do little bits of work during lunchtime. Iíve been working from home since mid-March and will keep WFH until 8/1. I would have probably got into more work than I wanted at the time.

I plan to return my Harbor Freight jack stands and get a 15/16Ē deep socket for my breaker bar and something I can use for my impact...then Iíll try again.


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05-21-2020 09:49 PM
shaggyjim For real.... hit them hard with a wire wheel and a drill then go to town.
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