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  Topic Review (Newest First)
09-15-2010 09:22 AM
slvmart Had the same problem with the lock button. The yellow wire connection was intermittent. After quite some time and taking the switch apart several times, I resoldered the terminal for the yellow wire on the PC board and that resolved the problem. Another cold solder joint, or simply a solder joint that was over stressed. Same as GreenZ.
09-01-2009 12:51 PM
XJH-007 Nice, that's deff. the right way to fix it......however I need more info on the "light spring". Got any "G" Modulus of Rigidity or "k" Spring constants??

k={G(d)^4}/8n(D^3) Enginerds Unite!

As of now, I can still give the door panel a light punch and they all start working again.....I think that's more of a Force and Mass Vector equation though......

09-01-2009 11:54 AM
Greenz Nice work.

Seems to be many problems with the switch module.

I disassembled my switch as pictured above. What I found was cracked solder joints on the main board next to the window lock switch. Remelted the solder joints and all is well. Thats was about 3 years ago and no more problems.

08-02-2007 10:00 AM
AZ Jeff GREAT WRITE UP, you are a man after my own heart.

When I did this to my switch panel, I didn't take pictures, so you have now documented in a better way what I did. (I didn't have trouble with my auto-down function on the driver's switch, though.)

This repair, obviously, is for those persons who are used to working on small, delicate components. If you ARE, this fixes the poorly designed switch assembly that Chrysler used in the 97+ XJ (which TRW supplied to them, so I don't know if we should blame Chrysler or TRW for this crappy part.)

GOOD JOB!!!
08-01-2007 05:38 PM
Ubie
Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul_C
I decided to tackle the power window lockout button. I wanted to try to repair before I did the bypass. I used AZ Jeff's writeup here.

Once I figured out how the buttons were attached removal wasn't too difficult. They are attached on the sides and you pry up one side with a screwdriver. You need to hold that side up and pry on the other side at the same time. Try to keep the palm of your hands over the button because that sucker can fly when it releases.





I disassembled the power window lockout button. The contact on the button slider is spring loaded and the contacts were clean. What I noticed using a continuity test is the button diddn't make contact until within a hair of being fully released. On the sliding contact there are two bumps that make contact with the switch contacts in the body. I removed the slider contact and put it in a small vise. I lightly filed the nickel plating above the bumps and soldered a piece of 18 gauge solid wire right above the bumps and then filed down the solder until I got to the new wire. I had to use my ancient but trusty Weller 250 watt soldering gun. Reinstall on the body with the wire in the top position. Test the fit, if it's a little snug file a tad more off the wire, then reassemble the switch. Make sure the little spring at the bottom of the switch that controls the on and off position is in place during reassembly. Sorry I don't have more pics, I tool all these during final reassembly.



I take it out to test it and it works great. Lets hope it doesn't give me any more trouble. But wait, the auto down on the drivers side no longer works. Well, it was a bit flakey before. So I figure what have I got to loose, I take it back inside. Here's a pic of the top with the drivers window button removed.



There are three holes in the middle of the switch. The right hole originally had a black plastic button in it. By pulling down the switch part way the large contacts controlled the window. Pulling down further the switch pressed that button in the middle of the switch, energizing the relay to the left and allowing the window to go down automatically. That black plastic button is one of those printed circuit board buttons like on remotes or the power mirror above it. Luckily it diddn't use a little brass contact in the button like the power mirror has. Since there's no way (I haven't found one) to remove the circuit board from the bottom plastic and unsolder the switch, I yanked the little black plastic button out and dug out the rest of the rubber button with dental tools. You can see in the above photo there are two printed circuit contacts through the hole. After a little thinking and digging through the junkbox I figured a small screw and spring might make a replacement. After more fooling around and testing I took my final design out to the garage and made it with a piece of brass on a lathe.



Button installed


And the final assembly


On the switch I had to cut off a little plastic tang that use to push on the original button.

Here are the dimentions of the replacement button if anyone cares, dares?, to give it a try. Two words of advice. Don't spray the circuit board with any type of cleaners. I used an electronics cleaner that's pretty mild but it must have been enough to kill the auto down button. And second it to test all functions before snaping the top buttons back in place.



Feel free to make click free since I'm still a newb here without all the fancy privelages.

Paul
click free (i think...)
08-01-2007 04:54 PM
Paul_C
Power window switch repair writeup

I decided to tackle the power window lockout button. I wanted to try to repair before I did the bypass. I used AZ Jeff's writeup here. https://jeepforum.com/forum/showpost....7&postcount=16

Once I figured out how the buttons were attached removal wasn't too difficult. They are attached on the sides and you pry up one side with a screwdriver. You need to hold that side up and pry on the other side at the same time. Try to keep the palm of your hands over the button because that sucker can fly when it releases.

http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/b...moveSwitch.jpg
http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/b...moveButton.jpg
http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/b...oveSwitch2.jpg

I disassembled the power window lockout button. The contact on the button slider is spring loaded and the contacts were clean. What I noticed using a continuity test is the button diddn't make contact until within a hair of being fully released. On the sliding contact there are two bumps that make contact with the switch contacts in the body. I removed the slider contact and put it in a small vise. I lightly filed the nickel plating above the bumps and soldered a piece of 18 gauge solid wire right above the bumps and then filed down the solder until I got to the new wire. I had to use my ancient but trusty Weller 250 watt soldering gun. Reinstall on the body with the wire in the top position. Test the fit, if it's a little snug file a tad more off the wire, then reassemble the switch. Make sure the little spring at the bottom of the switch that controls the on and off position is in place during reassembly. Sorry I don't have more pics, I tool all these during final reassembly.

http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/b...koutButton.jpg

I take it out to test it and it works great. Lets hope it doesn't give me any more trouble. But wait, the auto down on the drivers side no longer works. Well, it was a bit flakey before. So I figure what have I got to loose, I take it back inside. Here's a pic of the top with the drivers window button removed.

http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/b...XJ/TopView.jpg

There are three holes in the middle of the switch. The right hole originally had a black plastic button in it. By pulling down the switch part way the large contacts controlled the window. Pulling down further the switch pressed that button in the middle of the switch, energizing the relay to the left and allowing the window to go down automatically. That black plastic button is one of those printed circuit board buttons like on remotes or the power mirror above it. Luckily it diddn't use a little brass contact in the button like the power mirror has. Since there's no way (I haven't found one) to remove the circuit board from the bottom plastic and unsolder the switch, I yanked the little black plastic button out and dug out the rest of the rubber button with dental tools. You can see in the above photo there are two printed circuit contacts through the hole. After a little thinking and digging through the junkbox I figured a small screw and spring might make a replacement. After more fooling around and testing I took my final design out to the garage and made it with a piece of brass on a lathe.

http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/b...tonWspring.jpg

Button installed
http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/b...nInstalled.jpg

And the final assembly
http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/b...WithSwitch.jpg

On the switch I had to cut off a little plastic tang that use to push on the original button.

Here are the dimentions of the replacement button if anyone cares, dares?, to give it a try. Two words of advice. Don't spray the circuit board with any type of cleaners. I used an electronics cleaner that's pretty mild but it must have been enough to kill the auto down button. And second it to test all functions before snaping the top buttons back in place.

http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/b...Dimentions.jpg

Feel free to make click free since I'm still a newb here without all the fancy privelages.

Paul

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