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  Topic Review (Newest First)
02-27-2010 12:32 AM
autoposer Just changed my starter in my 2000 XJ for the first time. The instructions in the box said to make sure and align the starter (using a screw driver). I didn't see how this was possible with the bell housing cover in place so I just put it on as is and it has started fine several times. Did I get lucky or is alignment of the starter motor with the flywheel not an issue?
01-10-2010 09:01 PM
Magus2727 I have brand new Monster Performance Car Gold Plated solid brass battery posts on a optima Yellow that have clean posts.

The car use to have one wire some what daisy chained, It was one 4-5 foot 'ish length of 6 gauge (from what I can tell) that had a 1" section cut in the middle with a special crimp ring. it then connected the Battery's positive to both the Starter and the Alt in one cable. I removed this and ran 1/0 from battery to Alt and 4 AWG from batt to Starter.

I will try my red top. I also had jumper cables to the battery with the jeep running and got the same results. I am going to get a multi meter on it tomorrow afternoon/evening and will see what the voltages are at the solenoid and the battery when cranking.
01-10-2010 08:34 PM
Otahyoni
Quote:
Originally Posted by Magus2727 View Post
well looks like i still have problems...

as it stands right now

Other Wires:
1 remote solenoid attached to small post connecting into ford OEM connector(found in MAFS bundle)

Positive Wires:
1/0 AWG battery to Alt
4 AWG Battery to Solenoid on Alt (side with out the braided cable)
4 AWG battery to fuse box

Negative Wires:
1/0 AWG battery to body (by washer fluid, gorund down quarter size area to bare metal)
4 AWG battery to Starter/Transmission Bolt (located on the bottom most bolt)
6 AWG battery to front of head (utilizing a threaded hole under the oil cap on Head)

I am still not getting it to start. It clicks, but does not sound like it is engaging. It has been tested by two different locations (different stores) as to be good the second time was connected to my wiring.

Only difference is that I don't have the Alt daisy chained to go Batt --> Starter -->Alt.
What do you mean here? I'm pretty sure the charging wire goes from the alt to the B terminal and to the battery though the battery cable.

Thanks for all the advice Thus far!
You're very welcome.
The bold part is telling me that it is not getting enough power.

Being tested good at 2 different stores, i would believe them.

It sounds to me like you got your wiring good. Maybe try a different battery for kicks? Also make sure your battery connections are clean (i'm sure they are but it never hurts to be sure).
01-10-2010 07:26 PM
Magus2727 The last test was done and the guy at auto zone asked what the other wire was for... and I said ground and he said it was wired wrong. So I had him test it still with my weiring (not using the wrongly connected negative cable I had)

Yes I was referring to the Bendix... just did not know what it was called...

So the solenoid could be bad even though the test done a few hours ago said it was still good?
01-10-2010 07:02 PM
slimpartywagon ohh just noticed you posted something else... your solenoid might be toast due to hooking it up wrong... I have burnt them out b4 by making the same mistake.
01-10-2010 06:59 PM
slimpartywagon
Quote:
Originally Posted by Magus2727 View Post
First I would like to say sorry this is not a queston proposed to solve a problem with my Jeep but my car. I am assuming that they generaly all work the same.

I upgraded the power wire on my 2001 focus and have had to take the starter out to run it. Upon putting it back in I just get a clicking from the solenoid. I pulled the starter and "jumpered the remote to see what was going on and the ring gear actuates back and forth (a few times a second)

The ring gear is meant to spin after it actutes right?

thinking it might be the battery (it has been trying to start the car for the last few days with no recharging.

I connected the starter to the red top that I have in the jeep and the starter behavior was similar, however it did not acuate back and forth, the ring gear just stayed extended with out turning.

so the question is what might be going on? I have 4AWG wiring with soldered terminals on each end. had the started tested this morning (before "jumping") it and it tested to be good.

Is there some sort of signal that is given on the remote to start the motor to turn the ring gear?

When tested the person put the ground cable to the casing and put the clips on the posts of the solenoid, should I have it retested but have the person put the clips on the ring terminals on my wiring?

thanks for any help!
I think you are referring to the Bendix Drive Gear, the "Ring Gear" is the tooth part of the fly wheel. The Bendix Gear is supposed to kick out when power is applied to the Starter Solenoid. The solenoid is just a giant relay, one side has Battery Power 100% of the time, the other big lead has power only after the ignition (I) terminal gets power.

Now for the Testing procedure you described. In short... the "Person" tested it correctly. If the bendix kicked out hard and spun fast without drawing too may amps... it passed...

I think your problem is a bad ground, or you didn't hook the new wire up right... Is the starter getting real hot as you try and start the car?
01-10-2010 06:10 PM
Magus2727 well looks like i still have problems...

as it stands right now

Other Wires:
1 remote solenoid attached to small post connecting into ford OEM connector(found in MAFS bundle)

Positive Wires:
1/0 AWG battery to Alt
4 AWG Battery to Solenoid on Alt (side with out the braided cable)
4 AWG battery to fuse box

Negative Wires:
1/0 AWG battery to body (by washer fluid, gorund down quarter size area to bare metal)
4 AWG battery to Starter/Transmission Bolt (located on the bottom most bolt)
6 AWG battery to front of head (utilizing a threaded hole under the oil cap on Head)

I am still not getting it to start. It clicks, but does not sound like it is engaging. It has been tested by two different locations (different stores) as to be good the second time was connected to my wiring.

Only difference is that I don't have the Alt daisy chained to go Batt --> Starter -->Alt.

Thanks for all the advice Thus far!
01-10-2010 04:37 PM
Otahyoni
Quote:
Originally Posted by Magus2727 View Post
So I only need to provide A Heavy gauge power wire to the large post with out the braid and a remote wire to the smaller post....

The factory wiring harness came with a plastic "shield" that the terminals went though and there is a black cable with a o-ring in the casing...

Well this was a event full week end..... I had Ground connected to the other side of the solenoid so i was shorting the battery out....
In a word, yes.

Don't worry about shorting the battery, i've done worse...
01-10-2010 04:10 PM
Magus2727 So I only need to provide A Heavy gauge power wire to the large post with out the braid and a remote wire to the smaller post....

The factory wiring harness came with a plastic "shield" that the terminals went though and there is a black cable with a o-ring in the casing...

Well this was a event full week end..... I had Ground connected to the other side of the solenoid so i was shorting the battery out....
01-10-2010 03:42 PM
Otahyoni Wait... so using this picture as an example,

You hooked the positive up to the top post and the neg (ground) up to the bottom post?


Starters in autos ground through the body of the starter. the post at the bottom (with the braided cable) is the power to the motor itself in the starter (inside the lower black casing).

If you are unsure of the starter's grounding (which really shouldn't be a problem), put a ground cable under one of the mounting bolt to the battery.


And 55amp probably won't be enough. Use a good battery and jumper cables. Pos to the top post in the pic above and the neg to the mounting flange or other part of the case of the starter, then short the S terminal (small terminal) to the Pos jumper cable.
01-10-2010 03:15 PM
Magus2727 I have a battery charger that has a 55 amp starter option. will that be enough to do the test method above?
01-10-2010 03:13 PM
Magus2727 I did not ground the starter by its case. I have a 4AWG power to the large post and 4AWG from battery to negative large post. the large post also has a braided cable going into the starter. this braided ground also grounds the case right? I used a 6 inch section of 4awg to jumper the small remote/solenoid possitive to the main possitive cabel.
01-10-2010 02:57 PM
Otahyoni Did you have the battery connected to the B post or just the S terminal?

If you ground the starter and apply power to the S terminal the starter drive will pop out and nothing else will happen.

If you hook jumper cables to the B post and ground to the body then take a screwdriver or something similar and jump the S terminal to the B post it should kick the drive out then start turning (with some force i might add, might want to put a foot on it to keep it from jumping).

If it turns slowly or not at all following ^^ then you might have a bad connection (or if not then a bad starter).
01-10-2010 02:12 PM
Magus2727 I have a charger on the battery now and will try it again in a few hours. I will double check all the wire connections.

The second battery tested on was not a low voltage situation, it did not click it stayed extended but did not turn...
01-10-2010 02:03 PM
CJ7-Tim Clicking from a starter is usually low voltage, either from a bad wire connection (positive or negative) or low voltage from the battery (low charge or failed battery).

Jumping the solenoid should make the starter function. Take the starter to the auto parts store and have them test it. Keep in mind that some failed starters will still pass the test on a test machine.
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