- Reply to Topic
Thread: Rust fact or fiction Reply to Thread

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid e-mail address for yourself.

Email Address:


  Additional Options
Miscellaneous Options

  Topic Review (Newest First)
12-02-2019 10:10 AM
pat master They build doors like that intentionally. They want you to buy a vehicle every 7 or 8 years. This is what I've done that's worked well for me. Pour your rust remover with zinc inside your seams if you want to go extreme dip them. You can use a piece of gutter. Let them soak for a day or 2 let it dry thoroughly and then seal it with your moisture cured aluminum pigmented primer or epoxy .In a industrial environment the moisture cured goes down 1st, 2 coats , followed by 2 coats of epoxy primer then a topcoat. This system is used for very corrosive environments. This is how I paint my stuff.
12-01-2019 10:54 AM
The new doors are in good, solid shape, but some very minor surface rust starting on the very bottom edge of the door.
Problem is when Chrysler made the doors it was bare metal and the door skin got folded over the inner section. It then got painted but water can still get between the two. This is where the rust starts. You need to try to get rid of any rust then make sure water doesn't get between the sections. It's not easy but can be done. Also pay attention to the drains at the bottom, Make sure they still can let water out.
12-01-2019 10:06 AM
pat master Metal prep etches the surface to promote paint adhesion. As for the zinc film that is to combat the rust. You want a nice light coating of zinc.If you leave it on too long simply re wet it with the prep. Dampen a Scotch bright pad with water scrub it lightly and dry it off with a paper towel or rag. Take a panel treat one half with metal prep and wipe the other half thinner and paint it. Set it outside and see which side rusts the fastest. This particular metal prep will dissolve heavy surface rust in less than an hour.
11-30-2019 03:07 PM
Letzride can you paint over a zinc phosphate film?
10-10-2019 08:07 PM
Originally Posted by PwnCall View Post
If the rust is on the inside of the doors than you might have to replace the metal.

Fluid film the inside either way.
Ive got the panels pulled off. The inner door looks real good. I will definitely treat the inside while everything apart
10-10-2019 07:02 PM
PwnCall If the rust is on the inside of the doors than you might have to replace the metal.

Fluid film the inside either way.
10-09-2019 08:44 AM
actiondan Acetone is fine to clean up what you sanded. Why would it not be?
10-08-2019 07:36 PM
Freeagent27 I picked up some new full doors today as my old ones were rotting real bad. The new doors are in good, solid shape, but some very minor surface rust starting on the very bottom edge of the door. I want to attack this and treat it as best I can. I was going to sand it down, then use acetone after to clean it before priming. Is acetone no longer recommended for this? My other idea is to spray some type of bed liner on the lower 2-4 inches of the door after the rust is cleaned up. I know it will have the rough texture, but I'm just trying to prevent future rotting issues as I am in a heavy salt belt. Thoughts? Tips?
08-22-2019 09:27 AM
pat master Ospho Rust Cure and of course my favorite Master coat rust remover and prep. Now keep in mind I started the master series coating line 30 years ago and I don't want to run a commercial. Your fastest rust remover is phosphoric acid-based rust remover's it's been around for 40 years I know of. The new ones that use chelation take longer to remove the rust. Basic rule always use a metal prep not some sort not a converter when doing your bodywork. This is the 1st step in quality rust repairs.
08-21-2019 07:56 PM
WildBillinTN What phosphoric acid with zinc do you recommend? Is there a specific product you have in mind that you prefer to use?
08-20-2019 07:45 AM
pat master Sorry it took so long to respond. If you do bead blast doing it very gently as not to blowholes to the floor. I would recommend a good wire wheeling followed by a phosphoric acid rust remover that contains zinc. What I do is use a spray bottle soak the metal lay paper towel or rag over it.Then spray it again let it sit for an hour you should be down to clean steel. Wipe it off let it dry and you're ready for paint. Now I know the Jeeps that you guys drive is not a forever thing. So you can use either the moisture cured aluminum flake primer or epoxy one things for certain when you use a good quality metal prep regardless of the paint that you use will last a lot longer by using the prep.
08-08-2019 07:49 AM
V8GCZJ Bead blast the rust off to bare metal then use a good epoxy primer/paint. There already is a similar post on rust...
08-07-2019 08:59 PM
Originally Posted by pat master View Post
I've been involved in fighting rust on both classic cars and street rods. I've been in industrial coatings business for 30 years. Most of you are a lot younger than I and you will be fighting the rust for years to come. First lesson metal prep. When you wire wheel away rust put a coat of paint over it your generally pissing in the wind. Unless that paint is airtight it's coming back to bite you. Metal prep solutions I generally phosphoric acid and zinc. It dissolves the rust and leaves a zinc phosphate film to combat rust. Zinc is self-sacrificing, in other words it wears out. Even if you paint a alternator bracket wipe it down metal prep. Your work will last longer.I don't know maybe a Jeep and your age,, you keep these things forever? Anyway if you have any questions I would love to share my experience and knowledge with the younger generation.
I'm starting a 1978 CJ5 with some serious rust in the floor panels. I'm looking for something to start spraying the rust and killing it off so I can get an idea of what I have left and what needs replacing. What would you recommend? The Jeep is now in my shop out of the elements. Thanks.

05-30-2019 01:18 PM
pat master You are 100% correct. The old saying a ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. It certainly holds true as far as rust goes. Fluid film is calcium sulfonate, paraffin wax and petroleum. Calcium sulfonate is an excellent rust preventative but has to be applied under a vehicle periodically. The harsh environment under a vehicle causes the softer coatings to wear. Calcium sulfonate is what most inner panel protector's are formulated with. It is also one of the active ingredients in undercoating. A good combo would be metal prep the seems then apply the fluid film over it. The metal prep will kill any rust in the seam in the calcium sulfonate will prevent its return.Good rust work starts from the inside out I hope this helps
05-30-2019 10:12 AM
PwnCall I’ve found preventing it in the first place is the best option.

I use fluid film if I plan on keeping a car longer than 5 years here is my comparison for it.

A lot of the younger guys tend to just trade in and get something else instead of fix rust or before it starts.

Fluid film won’t keep it rust free forever but will definitely slow it down.
This thread has more than 15 replies. Click here to review the whole thread.

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome