|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|06-21-2020 01:46 PM|
Brizzzle what do you know about the GDE Eco Tune.
Your reply that "Swirl has been disabled from the gde tune" had me bail on this subject, seeing more modifications listed I would suggest that is a direction to pursue.
Your friendly dealer did not make mention of the 'modifications' ?
|06-21-2020 11:30 AM|
Originally Posted by Brizzzle View Post
|06-21-2020 11:13 AM|
|plunix||Yikes. I got the same problem now. ETC with no codes. How far did you get with your issue?|
|04-03-2020 09:09 AM|
Originally Posted by plunix View Post
|04-03-2020 09:08 AM|
|Brizzzle||Thanks for that i had also got some heat protection tape and wrapped those wire looms beside the a.c below the battery tray and zip tied them aswell best i could isolating them. It will help for sure..|
|03-29-2020 10:28 PM|
I had issues like this when I did my DPF delete. One of my taped ends on the pressure differential tubes came loose and it caused an error since there SHOULDNT be a differential reading.
I also had something similar that was my computer wiring running across hot coolant lines that would superheat and shut off my engine totally. Zip tie any electrical lines running across the coolant lines for good measure. They're usually around the battery area.
|03-27-2020 09:53 PM|
|Brizzzle||Anyone following thia should know, since my last post i decided to juat buy a new throttle body and try another reset, e.t.c light still came on again. I was talking to a friend and he mentioned maf sensor again i said no ita not that it looks good etc. But i went to look at it and on the plastic grill oart of it on the intake side i touched it and my finger was black i said wtf ... and i got to thinking. The first chrualer dealer i went to guy said moat common thing ia air folter check your air filter he said, " have an aftermarket one" i said no thinking like knn or something i told him ita a fram which i thought was pretty standard he said well thats aftermarket and o kinda juat shrugged an never thought twice about possibly being the air filter. So now to the point... i decided to buckle up and order a mopar air filter after my wife insisting " well maybe it is the air filter". I told her theres no way a different filter will cause this but possibly it can and heres why: the fram sits in the box a little poorly and i belive i necer had my intake filter box lid clipped in properly with the fram. When i got my mopar filter today i went to out it in and i could clip the clipa to awcure and i thought whats going on here this is how i do it and its not clipping. For the mopar which is nice and snug btw, you have to push the lid ALL THE WAY BACK IN THE SLOTS AND THEN THE LID PUSH DOWN IN THE FRONTAND HOLD IT AND CLIP IT, TIGHT! Allso i decided to buy m.a.f sensor cleaner and i got a decent amount of black runoff out of it, and i put 2 + 2 together and here it is. Lid wasnt closed properly with the fram, dirt grime engoil oil leak mist whatever by passed the filter and straight through the m.a.f dirtying it up . 2 things happend: maf is on now readings are slightly out due to the grime aswell the air intake wasnt sealed fully and that was affecting the sensor readout aswell.... I hope this problem is gone. I dod a reset again and took it for a hard 30 min ride and so far so good. I parked and restarted it again about 20 minutes of rest and normally this is when it would be back on but it wasnt. So time will tell i will keep this thread going to help anyone through the processes. I think im starting to get a good sense how all this works. My problem may have been so simple it was overlooked completely as next thoughts before this was turbo sctuator and stuff like that, not fram air filter and dirty m.a.f..... lets see how it goes!|
|03-20-2020 08:50 AM|
O2 sensor is now changed and i still have the light on FML. No more o2 sensor code but the throttle problem has not been fixed. I reset the computer and everything. So heres what im thinking, i bought the blue driver code reader and it reads live data and the only thing ive noticed is even at idle it shows my absolute throttle position at like 90- 92% and during driving this does not change. Also command throttle actuator sits around 98%. I would assume these should be in the lower range and fluctuate as driving. Im thinking it is the throttle position sensor which is built in the throttle body, any thoughts?..
I notice the live data shows pedal sensors fluctuating as they should so i think its down to the throttle position sensor it self.. im gonna have a look at the connector itself ive read a few posts about just zip tie it in better but im thinking the whole throttle body should be replaced. Last thing is last summer i had pulled everything off to get a look in my throttle body and it was alarming to see it wide open with the car off?. There was some black and brown build up on the sides of the plate it didnt seem that bad ive seen way worse like soot build up mine you can see metal still but ya and i know i get a lot of oil blowby still so im thinking it could be stuck open. Will this cause random e.t.c lights im sure it could. What bothers me is this light comes on and off whenever it wants. I wish ot was on and stayed on until the problem was fixed and then stayed off. One dealer said air filter it has to be the stock air filter im thinking illl get the mopar one just to see but i dont buy it that this vehicle is that sensitive a wix or mann air filter can cause a problem like this can it? Also the light can be on right at vehicle start up no driving sometimes after a night it wasnt on or else during a drive it could be off at start up but come on during driving. Hot or cold outside sunny or rainy . Frustrating
|03-08-2020 09:56 PM|
|Brizzzle||So after all this some or anything in my previous post could have been related and doing the fixes i ha e done may have halped aswell. Bjt now i got the the e.t.c light come on randomly still here and there like once a month sometimes a few months without. Most recently it was coming on right when i first start the vehicle early in the cold morning.. anyway 2 days ago the light was on and wouldnt go off no matter what. Befor ei could turn key off open door restart and it would be gone till whenever. Past 2 days it had been on constant no matter what. Tool it to the dealer again this time whole running and with the light still on and YES they say o2 sensor bank 1 sensor 1 is an active fault. That is the absolute reason for the light to be on currently. I always had a huntch this sensor had some sort of issue as when i got the vehicle if you ever read my other earlier pists i had a low voktage fault which was stored for this particular sensor. But whenever i scnaned the jeep it was only a stored code so i presumed it was fixed or working again. I think it was the o2 sensor all along just acting up now its failed completely. Hope this helps anyone. But bottom line is : failing o2 sensor will cause a throttle light hope thats all it is tho. These sensors are about 120 CAD each for me shipped! Im going to do both upstream|
|07-30-2019 11:10 AM|
Please keep us updated. I just had something very similar happen. The Dealership looked at me like I was crazy when they ran the codes and nothing showed. The history was there going back 2 years but nothing about the limp mode. I found this on search despite having a different model. Please do not think I am hijacking this but I did not want to start a new thread. If I was wrong, by all means move, just seems relevant.
2007 WK, 4.7. 2WD about 69,000 miles, everything stock.
2 consecutive days, was stuck in 4th gear. I tried cycling the shifter, nothing. Multiple shut down / restart attempts. I did not even know about limp mode, I just noticed it had no power and saw it stuck in 4th gear as per the shifter window. It disappeared on the day I brought it to the Dealership to diagnose, and the dealership is saying they cannot find any problems. I expect to get it back today from the Dealership with no major service performed so I am suspecting seeing the problem again. I am the original owner and no problems to date, and all maintenance performed at required intervals.
I hope your problem doesn't come back. I searched for "Limp mode" and "No Code" and this looked like the best place to start.
|07-16-2019 07:26 PM|
|petzlkong||If you don't find the problem. You might want to look at this. Wire harness over swirl motor.|
|07-16-2019 05:29 PM|
I think its solved. I cant say for sure yet as only time will tell but i beloeve the bottom line factor was my PCM likely needed a reset after changing some performance parts. Ive since installed the resonator delete pipe, maf sensor,
New air filter, transmission fluid change, without a p.c.m reset and possibly even my DPF delete pipe had gone in since ive reset it aswell. And then what was happening was air flow /exhaust flow rate were probly not reaching previous learned perameters.... so id say do a rest after any performance mod...... cant hurt anyway.... and while i do disconnect my neg batttery terminal when i work on any electronics. For a reset i take my battery out and connect a 3/4" copper pipe between my battery terminal clamps together to drain internals for at least 30 mins and it works... Thanks everyone involved. I will post next time i get the light on my dash and then the quest continues. But this does make sense why i waant getting any engine code faults... does this all make sense?
|07-12-2019 08:48 AM|
I had the elephant hose mod done for a few months and it happened with the mod. I have since taken the mod out as i wanted to try it and try without now , i was venting under the jeep and it was very strong odour all the time. A little blow by oil flowing through my system isnt a concern for me really as this jeep was used 180km and previously they never had the mod done so im sure my intercooler has a lot of oil in it anyway if i ever changed my IC id do the mod and keep it for sure. Anyway for me all my intake charge air hoses are tight i have a new aeal from pcv valve to intake and the upgraded black seal to turbo they all look snug... since ive played with my wiring under battery, zip tied and secured battery tightly , i have not noticed the limp mode yet its been almost a week... i think it may have more to do with the wiring and the heat , a.c lines rubbing hot power steering pump touching wiring and interfering... i want to get some high heat tape and wrap the wiring in the thses areas to further protect them.
P.s my jeep has chrome inserts throughout the whole front and air dam shield , im not getting as mich air through my bay as most users are... i wonder if for me its the wiring and heat.. maybe the pcm was getting hot and acting wierd aswell ? Im not positive yet but will see....
|07-11-2019 03:04 PM|
I had a ever so slightly loose battery connection once , like snug but could rotate the connection, and it caused her to stall and then wouldn't start.
I do them up pretty tight now...
|07-11-2019 01:07 PM|
Mine ended up being the elephant hose it had come loose from the clean air hose, mine still had the orange gasket and it was covered with oil.
The more I think about it the 1st time the Jeep went into limp mode all I saw on the dash was the red light above the temp gauge and no check engine light in the middle. Now the sun was behind me all the way home so I may have missed the center orange/yellow light.
The next day I did see the check engine light it was on all the time and the red limp mode light was flashing. When I read the code it came back as a PO243 Turbo actuator.
Pulling the engine cover 1st thing I saw was orange gasket at the end of the elephant hose exposed.
Could your hose be leaking? Have you checked around the clean air hose to see if anything is loose?
I just bought the Jeep 3 weeks ago and while test driving the 1st thing I noticed was a diesel smell in the cab when I was driving it.. Can you smell any diesel inside your Jeep?
I just did the elephant hose mod today and the 1st thing I noticed was no diesel smell in the cab while driving along with no more limp mode and flashing lights.
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