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  Topic Review (Newest First)
10-15-2018 09:04 AM
nanotec
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tango. View Post
#2 in that diagram is what I was remembering, however it's #1 is what I have in my notes and receipt:
Bosch Fuel Injection Pressure Sensor fits 03-09 Dodge Sprinter 2500 #0061536528

Paid 108 .. MB same part is 190

Hi tango.
I apologize you for any inconvenience. I need to make you a question about pump sensor.
That reference (#0061536528) is for number #1 sensor or #2?
Is it easy for change? How did it?
Thanks a lot.
10-06-2018 01:11 PM
Sandib210
Quote:
Originally Posted by nanotec View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sandib210 View Post
I’m trying to find out more about the leak of test just doing the cranking for 10 seconds version rather than letting it actually start. Do I have to unplug a sensor or something so that it just cranks and won’t turn over?
I'm very interested in this test.
While waiting answer to your question, i have a request to you: what's the diameter of the tube you used in the test? Definitely, i'm going to buy it to try.
Very very long starts are desappear with new cps, but i need 3 or 4 turns to start, yet.

Ok somewhere I went wrong but do my result still count?
I bought 3/8ID tube as instructed but it actually required 1/4” ID so I used some water line I had kicking around
I unplugged the cam sensor. But the Jeep started anyway. What didn’t I unplug?? (See picture)
Husband cranked and we almost got to 10 second shot before it surprisingly started.
Here’s my video.
https://youtu.be/5wVdtCBG_MQ

So I have a lot of diesel in 3 tubes but given that it started, are the results true?
10-06-2018 10:45 AM
smshort
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sandib210 View Post
Iím trying to find out more about the leak of test just doing the cranking for 10 seconds version rather than letting it actually start. Do I have to unplug a sensor or something so that it just cranks and wonít turn over?
Here are the instructions I followed from sprinter source. I unplugged the cam sensor and counted down 10 seconds, but mine was so bad that it wouldn't start anyway.

1. Purchase 3/8" ID clear tube from home depot- 2ft

2. Cut it in 4" lengths.

3. Take injector cover off

4. Pull clips off of each of the return fittings on top of the injectors

5. DON'T LOOSE THEM (I keep a clean peanut butter jar with lid around just for this purpose- they store the cut sections of tubing in them when not holding the clips)

6. Carefully pull the return line plastic fittings up and off the injectors (they can break- I've never broken one, but I have read on the forum that the only source for them is Andy)

7. Unplug the Cam sensor (next to injector #5)

8. Fit one tube over each injector head

9. Using a vice grip and cardboard, pinch the fuel return line BEHIND the "T" for #5 injectorfuel can come backwards out the fittings and you can have a mess on your hands.

10. Crank the engine for a full 10 seconds- it won't start because you have your cam sensor unplugged.

11. Check for one or more tubes that are overly full. Andy told me that 2.5ml or more fuel in the tube meant that it was time to replace the injector. I just measured this and in that 3/8" tube on the injector, that would be right at 1 and 1/2" or 37mm for the rest of the world.

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
10-06-2018 10:22 AM
nanotec
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sandib210 View Post
Iím trying to find out more about the leak of test just doing the cranking for 10 seconds version rather than letting it actually start. Do I have to unplug a sensor or something so that it just cranks and wonít turn over?
I'm very interested in this test.
While waiting answer to your question, i have a request to you: what's the diameter of the tube you used in the test? Definitely, i'm going to buy it to try.
Very very long starts are desappear with new cps, but i need 3 or 4 turns to start, yet.
10-03-2018 10:43 AM
Sandib210
Quote:
Originally Posted by smshort View Post
How long did you run the test for? When I did it, cranking for 10 seconds, I only had fuel in the two bad injectors
I’m trying to find out more about the leak of test just doing the cranking for 10 seconds version rather than letting it actually start. Do I have to unplug a sensor or something so that it just cranks and won’t turn over?
10-03-2018 05:33 AM
Sandib210
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tetto View Post
Update and pro-tip: I'm starting injector replacement tomorrow, after letting things soak overnight. I discovered that the little plastic retention rings on the fuel return lines come off with almost zero effort if you use an 11mm open-end wrench to pop it up from underneath. Hopefully this info saves the next person much time and frustration [IMG class=inlineimg]/forum/images/JeepForum_2016/smilies/tango_face_wink.png[/IMG]

smshort: I left all sensors connected, so the engine started. I had it running for about 40 seconds.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tango. View Post
There is a pressure solenoid attached to the high pressure injection pump with like 3 screws.
I see 3 sensors in the HP pump, photo link below. Which of the 3 are you referring to?
http://drive.google.com/file/d/1eE0y...ew?usp=sharing

In taking a look at the HP pump, there's residue covering my turbo resonator. It was clean when I worked on it a few months ago - I'm not sure if it's fuel or oil residue, but something is definitely leaking. The location matches up with fuel coming out near the high pressure fuel pump.
Can you tell me what resolved your issues? I will order a fuel sensor pressure if need be and do a leak off test to my 08 WK CRD doing the same thing
04-18-2018 05:34 AM
Tango.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tetto View Post
...


I see 3 sensors in the HP pump, photo link below. Which of the 3 are you referring to?....

#2 in that diagram is what I was remembering, however it's #1 is what I have in my notes and receipt:
Bosch Fuel Injection Pressure Sensor fits 03-09 Dodge Sprinter 2500 #0061536528

Paid 108 .. MB same part is 190
04-14-2018 09:40 PM
Tetto Update and pro-tip: I'm starting injector replacement tomorrow, after letting things soak overnight. I discovered that the little plastic retention rings on the fuel return lines come off with almost zero effort if you use an 11mm open-end wrench to pop it up from underneath. Hopefully this info saves the next person much time and frustration

smshort: I left all sensors connected, so the engine started. I had it running for about 40 seconds.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tango. View Post
There is a pressure solenoid attached to the high pressure injection pump with like 3 screws.
I see 3 sensors in the HP pump, photo link below. Which of the 3 are you referring to?
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1eE0...ew?usp=sharing

In taking a look at the HP pump, there's residue covering my turbo resonator. It was clean when I worked on it a few months ago - I'm not sure if it's fuel or oil residue, but something is definitely leaking. The location matches up with fuel coming out near the high pressure fuel pump.
04-11-2018 05:29 PM
Tango.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tetto View Post
Fellow Jeeple, I come to you today because my baby (2007 CRD WK) is sick and I need your opinion. I'm at the point where I have to decide to potentially shell out for some expensive repairs, or sell her

Issue: Intermittent (probably 60% of the time) long crank on starting. When this happens, it cranks strong/continuously (doesnít seem to be a battery issue), just doesnít fire when it should. Sometimes it will fire after 2-3 cranks (like it should), sometimes it takes 15-30. Occasionally (probably once every 2 or 3 days), it will sputter like a tractor immediately after starting, but it idles smooth after a few seconds. Once it starts, it doesnít give any issues while driving aside from some vibration at specific RPM. After itís been run for a while and the engine is up to temperature, I can turn it off and it will start right away with no issues; it typically has a much harder time starting in the morning/after sitting overnight.- Verified HP pump pressure set-point
- Performed fuel quantity correction test (not even sure what this is)Can I get your thoughts and opinions?
I had the exact same problem and it took me a quite a while to figure it out.

There is a pressure solenoid attached to the high pressure injection pump with like 3 screws. It had gone out. Got the part number off Mopar Over Stock Parts and then found the Boche equal on eBay for about $130. There are 3 part numbers, mopar, MB, and Boche. same part and different prices. Boche is the lowest price.

The problem is overnight it looses the rail pressure.

There is also a 2nd pressure solenoid up on the driver side rail, that is not the one.
04-08-2018 07:25 PM
smshort How long did you run the test for? When I did it, cranking for 10 seconds, I only had fuel in the two bad injectors.

Oh and from your earlier question, I did not reprogram the ECU when replaced the two injectors. I have driven around 2000 miles since this repair and it has never failed to start, even into single digit temperatures.

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
04-08-2018 06:47 PM
Tetto Alrighty! Did the injector leak test and definitely have one bad injector, possibly two. Using cylinder numbering 1, 2, 3 from front to rear on passenger side and 4, 5, 6 from front to rear on driver side:
#4 is most definitely bad. What do you guys think of #2? The other 4 look fine to me.

https://youtu.be/GjDpRm4cI-g

I also noticed a surprising amount of air bubbles in some of the lines - I think I'll go ahead and replace all seals in addition to injector 4 and maybe 2.
04-08-2018 08:32 AM
Tetto
Quote:
Originally Posted by nanotec View Post
I'm interested in, because i have same problem than u, buddy.
Two hours ago i had buy a crankshaft sensor, but i fear that not resolve the problem.

P.D. I have an oil leak too, i don't know if both problems are related.
I'm still working on my issue, but here are some very useful threads I found:
- Similar hard-start issues, resolved, includes list of items
- Step-by-step replacement of injectors/injector seals
- Sprinter leak-off test. There is a helpful youtube video
), or two (
), as well.
04-08-2018 08:23 AM
badgerwithhands I would definitely check all of the ridiculous sensors, easy enough to get to anyway. Also, like others have said, check for air in the fuel rails.
04-08-2018 07:30 AM
nanotec I'm interested in, because i have same problem than u, buddy.
Two hours ago i had buy a crankshaft sensor, but i fear that not resolve the problem.

P.D. I have an oil leak too, i don't know if both problems are related.
04-07-2018 11:44 PM
underscore Someone on here in another thread said they just installed the injectors and went, no programming required. I could never understand why you would need to program the ECU for an injector swap anyways.
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