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  Topic Review (Newest First)
11-03-2020 09:57 AM
Hoover7 Interesting results, John, thanks for posting those up. Look forward to seeing how the Omix compares.

Although the clock repair was pretty amazing, I was sorely disappointed in the their work 'refurbing' the tach. Costly mistake, but now I know better.

Glad you are tinkering around with it, and yes, the needle moving to 2000 when the power is off is extremely annoying. Hoping my current OEM tach has a long life.

Hoov
11-03-2020 07:30 AM
John Strenk
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoover7 View Post
I spent time yesterday trying to get my gauge issues put to rest. The clock is now complete. It looks fabulous, and seems to keep perfect time (24hr battery test). However, I remain completely dissatisfied with the tachometer with respect to resting needle position, and after testing in a side by side comparison yesterday, with accuracy. :thumbsdown:

Good news first: As I imagined, using a drill press to cut the grommet 'blanks' was far superior to hand cutting. I had to resharpen the borer twice with a small file, but the plugs came out perfectly round. However, the next issue was creating a centered hole for the shaft, and had to use a combination of the suggestions above to get the result I wanted. First, I tried to drill the cut plugs, but couldn't keep the bit centered to begin the hole. Then I tried the John's 'heated rod' suggestion, but the rubber cooled the glowing end quickly, and after four tries on the same plug had no luck. At that point, I tried pre-drilling the small diameter hole, then cutting the plug out using the borer, but achieving a plug that was perfectly centered with the smaller hole proved impossible. Perhaps some of you guys would have had success with that approach, but I obviously lack that skill-set. So, I ended up using the heated rod to 'start' the hole in a cut grommet plug, and that allowed me to keep the bit centered as I drilled it out. The plug got pretty hot in the process, but happy with the result.

Removing the adjustment knob from the shaft was relatively easy, just remember to use a pair of pliers to hold the shaft behind the knob, rather than exerting pressure on the small pressed-on gear on the opposite end. I found that out the hard way yesterday morning while testing that procedure on another clock. Took forever to find the gear when it shot out of the clock, and re-attaching the gear, spring and shaft tested my patience.

All this being said, I now have a grommet behind the adjustment knob on my refurbished clock. The only difference from OEM is that I did not attach/glue the grommet to the lens. Since the knob and lens face is effectively sealed by the shaft spring pressure, I'm perfectly happy with the grommet remaining against the knob when adjusting the clock. Seals nicely when released.

As I cut quite a few plugs, if anyone needs one, PM me and I'll happily send one your way. However, Keith's idea of using a vacuum line might be even easier, and look forward to seeing his result.

Attachment 3610538

The tachometer saga, however, continues. In retrospect, I removed my Crown tach much too quickly yesterday. I should have left it in place, but I was optimistic. Once removed, I connected the refurbed tach and turned the key to the 'on' position. The needle immediately smacked down to the resting pin on the face. I cranked the engine, and noticed that the needle was in the neighborhood of where it had always idled, but was not nearly as quick to respond to changes in rpms as the crown was. I then decided to rev the engine a few times, and the tach did not seem to display the same rpms as I'm used to seeing. Granted, I'm comparing this to a Crown tach, but I know what 3000 rpms sounds like.

Upon turning the system off, the tach needle jumped back to the 2000 rpm position. Maybe I misunderstood, but was expecting the resting position to reset to the 0 position after initial cranking. Perhaps some might consider me picky, but I expect gauges to rest at 0.

At that point, I reconnected the Crown tach along with the 'refurbished' tach, and did a series of side-by-side comparisons. Crown on the left, 'refurbed' on the right.

Key in the off position.
Attachment 3610546

Key in the ON position.
Attachment 3610554

Fast idle, choke engaged.
Attachment 3610562

Baseline idle.
Attachment 3610570

2000 rpms (as per Crown)
Attachment 3610578

And 3000 rpms.
Attachment 3610586

The disparity between the gauges at higher rpms is obvious, and have no faith in the refurbed model. But in the spirit of data proving, I will test the accuracy of the Crown gauge. Need to source a timing light with an rpm indicator, but have little doubt that the Crown is very close based on the tire size/rpm/ratio calculations from GrimJeeper. There is the chance that the tach was refurbed using 4-cyl or V8 electronics, which supports why the disparity in readings seem to increase dramatically at higher rpms, but confused as to why the refurbed tach shows higher readings at idle. And I absolutely hate that the needle will not rest in the zero position.

Just looking for a little feedback here, but am I expecting too much? Although successful with the replacing the grommet myself, I feel like I had to spend my time to do the things I paid to have done the first time. I looked back at my 'pre' work pics, and the clock I sent clearly had the grommet. And given that the cost associated with refurbishing the tach was in the neighborhood of $275 bucks (not including original purchase price), I feel my expectations are warranted. Feeling burned on this tach deal, fellas.

Hoov

Hoove sent me his tach and I did a little test on the accuracy.

Ran a check on the accuracy of the tach this morning.

RPM......4 Cyl..... 6 Cyl..... 8 Cyl
500 ........600 .......625 ......500
1000 .....1125 .....1150 ....1050
2000 .....1950 .....1950 ....2000
3000 .....2800 .....2750 ....2800
4000 .....4050 .....4000 ....3950
5000 .....5450 .....5500 ....5400
6000 .....6300 .....6300 ....6400

Seems they calibrate it at 4000 RPM and let the rest fall were they may.
Interesting no matter what # of cylinders you sellect, it's off the same amount

It still jumps to 2000 RPM with power off. Very annoying.

I have both a Crown and Omix tach and will test those tomorrow.

I'll have to figure out a way to test the OME tach.
12-09-2019 03:46 PM
cpadget Given that the clock works great, I would like try to fix the pin that changes the arms. As of now, my only way to set the clock is to pull the battery cable till it reads correct. So anytime I do work where I remove the battery cable, it screws me up. Maybe I will give them a ring since they are local. Thanks Walker
12-09-2019 01:46 PM
walkerhoundvm
Quote:
Originally Posted by cpadget View Post
Iíve posted a pic, just to say I was surprised at how well mine has held up over 36 years. Having said that, I cannot adjust the time anymore. It keeps time perfect, as it always has, but when I pull the pin out to set the hands, it doesnít turn them. It acts like it wants to grab them, but doesnít do it.

Matt, I saw that you tore yours apart initially. Any thoughts on what my issue might be? I certainly donít want to send mine in on looks alone, as Iím ok with how it looks.
There's a company in Scottsdale/Mesa I would trust if you ever need to send the clock or any gauge in - Dick's Speedo-tach. They have a very quick turnaround time and are reasonably priced - if you want to stick with originals. If not, I highly recommend Speed Hut. They are very close to original and work like a charm.
12-09-2019 10:18 AM
Matt1981CJ7
Quote:
Originally Posted by cpadget View Post
Iíve posted a pic, just to say I was surprised at how well mine has held up over 36 years. Having said that, I cannot adjust the time anymore. It keeps time perfect, as it always has, but when I pull the pin out to set the hands, it doesnít turn them. It acts like it wants to grab them, but doesnít do it.

Matt, I saw that you tore yours apart initially. Any thoughts on what my issue might be? I certainly donít want to send mine in on looks alone, as Iím ok with how it looks.
IIRC, that adjustment pin has a tiny gear at the end of it. When you pull the pin, the small gear engages with a larger gear that turns the hands. My guess is that small gear has either come loose from your pin, or the teeth are stripped.

Good luck,

Matt
12-09-2019 10:04 AM
cpadget I’ve posted a pic, just to say I was surprised at how well mine has held up over 36 years. Having said that, I cannot adjust the time anymore. It keeps time perfect, as it always has, but when I pull the pin out to set the hands, it doesn’t turn them. It acts like it wants to grab them, but doesn’t do it.

Matt, I saw that you tore yours apart initially. Any thoughts on what my issue might be? I certainly don’t want to send mine in on looks alone, as I’m ok with how it looks.
09-11-2019 11:48 AM
keith460
Quote:
Originally Posted by scottyDive View Post
I just cant get the fogginess out of my clock lens

And you won't either. I tried several failed attempts to scrub or chemically clear the UV damaged clear cover but it had remained yellowed over from years of being exposed to the sun.

I made one out of 1/4" thick polycarbonate that I had water jet cut from our fab shop and made several. First one that I drilled for the adjustment knob and the two locating pins was slightly off so I had to make another one. Not to hard but it is time consuming to get the old cover out from the bezel that surrounds it. It was included in a thread I started here: https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/c...l#post10794261
09-10-2019 07:09 PM
scottyDive Before i run to ISI for a $36 lens replacement, anyone stumble across a less expensive solution? I just cant get the fogginess out of my clock lens

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
06-05-2019 11:37 AM
raenglehart Sorry fellas, completely forgot to provide the update. After some back and forth with Lauri on how far I want them to do the restore, it was a basic refurb since I was able to get it working prior to send off to them. I got it back months ago and unfortunately due to some serious health issues, more surgeries, etc. the clock is still sitting in my shop and the Jeep is collecting dust. Everything went well with dealing with them (like everyone else), so once I get off my utt and am better enough, I'll get the clock back into the dash where it belongs.
10-02-2018 09:12 AM
Matt1981CJ7 Nice work repairing your clock, raenglhart.

Keep us posted.

Matt
10-02-2018 08:46 AM
raenglehart Keeping the thread alive........I let the clock run for over a week, kept perfect time. Packed it up, called Lauri this morning to ask about the JeepForum discount (if it still applied). Will drop the clock by the USPS today/tomorrow and await for their evaluation. I'll keep ya posted, but am optimistic everything will be great seeing as how everyone else's experiences have gone (well, except the Tach work that is ).
09-21-2018 01:25 PM
ScroungerLee Great thread, thanks. I don’t have a clock in my ‘86. I have always had old vehicles for fun and I find when I look at their clocks I then double check with my wrist watch anyway :-)
09-20-2018 03:34 PM
raenglehart Well, after reading over this whole thread this AM, I couldn't wait 'til the weekend to pull my OEM clock. Got it out relatively easy. Checked power and ground at the plug and full 12vdc, so it's getting power. Hooked it up to a bench power supply, and nothing. So I figured I'll be sending in for a full re-do. Curiousity got the best of me and, we'll frankly I enjoy solving my own problems or at least giving it a valiant effort[emoji57]

I was able to open it up no issues...just gotta take your time and be patient. Nothing looked broken/out of place other than the aforementioned missing set arm & knob. Cleaned up the spade contacts. Spun the gear by hand a little and lubed the gears while I was at it. While still out of its case, I hooked up power again and BAM! working like a champ. So, I may (and I say with caution....may) be able to get away with a cosmetic job if I send it in at all. Right now. I set the time and am going to leave it hooked up to power for say a week or so (checking daily). If it keeps time, Yay me!! If not, then I gave it a shot and will send it in for the full refurb.

Tick-tock now as I watch and wait.

Sent from my XT1635-01 using Tapatalk
09-20-2018 09:14 AM
raenglehart Alrighty.........2 hours well spent (read form end-to-end). Guess I need to get my clock hooked up to see if it even works (Quartz) and then give ISI a shout. Thinking back to all the CJ7's I've had over my years (5 going back to mid 90's), I wonder how many OEM gauges I threw away or gave away when I was forced to sell the jeeps off for one reason or another?

The only thing I cannot wrap my head around is there exaggerated shipping quotes. I can't stand when companies charge 2, 3, 4 times over actual shipping costs with no justification other justification other than padding profits.

I'm going to do a cost comparison of the two mentioned companies and see whats what.

Received a quote back from ClockWks
$179.95 (Qtz replacement, clean/polish, repaint hands)
+$10 (replace missing stem set)
+ $14 (shipping)
$203.95 (1 year warranty) [Optional rush job for +$20 - 24 hour quick-turn]

*I can say one thing, Jerry @ Clock Works is super quick with e-mail responses.....I mean within 5 minutes thus far.*
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Based on worse case scenario and prices y'all have been quoted from ISI:
$140.00 (Qtz replacement, clean/polish, replace bezel, repaint hands)
+ $ 19.36 (Set Knob)
+ $ 4.40 (Set Stem Pinion)
+ $ 12.05 (Set Stem)
+ $ .61 (Set Stem Spring)
+ $23.00 (Shipping)
= $199.42

* New Lens = $36 (Whoah!) = $235.42 (Don't think I'll need this add-on, but Worst Case, man, they are proud of the little bits for sure)

Due to everyone's clock re-do results, ISI is definitely looking like the way to go.............Decisions, decisions.

Now to get my clock out for a good inspection hopefully this weekend.
09-20-2018 08:14 AM
raenglehart Yup, you're right. That was Hoov.

Sent from my XT1635-01 using Tapatalk
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