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Thread: LJ Savvy Tummy Tuck - What do I need? Reply to Thread
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  Topic Review (Newest First)
06-08-2017 10:47 PM
Knuckelhead



I did my BellyUp before the Savvy skid came out. I used the BellyUp along with the Currie triangulated 4 link with their J arm set up and a shaved 9". It works for me...
06-08-2017 09:00 AM
NotURMailman In the front you will likely have to bumpstop for track bar / tie rod to diff cover clearance and just to keep things from colliding in general. Same procedure. I wouldn't even buy shocks until you get everything else set up and can measure for compressed and extended lengths.
You will probably want to trim the front axle end LCA mounts to allow enough droop to allow the spring to expand to it's full length, but you don't want it unloading and getting loose either.
06-08-2017 08:46 AM
uhohthe50 Another thing I forgot to ask about... what about the front axle? Should I be looking for any issues with that? Driveshaft clearance?
06-08-2017 08:09 AM
NotURMailman
Quote:
Originally Posted by uhohthe50 View Post
Do I test the clearance and axle position with the wheels off and rear springs out?
Yes, exactly. Remove the springs and shocks and the rubber bump stop jounce bumpers and set the axle at full bump with the steel bump stop cup against the spring pad. Then you will see what interference issues you have and how much bump stop you need.
06-08-2017 06:37 AM
uhohthe50
Quote:
Originally Posted by Unlimited04 View Post
You'll also need to check full bump in the rear to make sure the rear track bar clears and the axle position is good.

I have the 2.5" OME setup and found 1.375" bumpstop extensions required in the rear and front. Again, I had to fabricate my own rear track bar to clear with this setup - so be prepared to identify tons of issues along the way.

It's a Jeep...a tummy tuck isn't an easy mod...you'll always have to dump more money into it when modifying stuff...Just Empty Every Pocket.

One of the best mods you can get for your Jeep is a welder. My Millermatic 211 Auto-set and the 220V plug I installed in the garage has paid for itself many, many times over.
Do I test the clearance and axle position with the wheels off and rear springs out? I'm used to dealing with YJ leaf springs so this is all new to me.

I'm jealous of your welder . A welder is definitely on my wish list. I would need to install a 220 plug in my garage as well
06-08-2017 06:14 AM
Unlimited04
Quote:
Originally Posted by uhohthe50 View Post
This is some great info, thanks a lot. It's along the lines of what I was thinking, I was just hoping I wouldn't have to dump anymore money than I already am to buy the skid, SYE, DS, control arms, etc. I just got the shipping notice that I should get the skid on Tuesday. I have a wheeling trip planned on the 24th and I'm debating whether I wait until after that to tear into it. Otherwise I basically just have one weekend to do it and hope that I don't need to order any additional parts. I think there's a good chance I will need to order something else.
You'll also need to check full bump in the rear to make sure the rear track bar clears and the axle position is good.

I have the 2.5" OME setup and found 1.375" bumpstop extensions required in the rear and front. Again, I had to fabricate my own rear track bar to clear with this setup - so be prepared to identify tons of issues along the way.

It's a Jeep...a tummy tuck isn't an easy mod...you'll always have to dump more money into it when modifying stuff...Just Empty Every Pocket.

One of the best mods you can get for your Jeep is a welder. My Millermatic 211 Auto-set and the 220V plug I installed in the garage has paid for itself many, many times over.
06-08-2017 05:50 AM
uhohthe50
Quote:
Originally Posted by Unlimited04 View Post
You'll need adjustable uppers and lowers. Set the lowers at 15.5" eye to eye and set the uppers to whatever you end up with to get the right pinion angle. You'll need a better rear track bar - I had to fabricate my own using an oxy-acet torch, the stock bar and the heim end harvested from a RE bar. I also redid my entire exhaust from the oil pan back to 2.5"...added flex coupler, flange between downpipe and rear cat, ground/cut the center crossmember to clear the rear cat, installed new muffler & extended the cat-to-muffler flange to clear the crossmember, reworked all exhaust hangers, reworked rear tailpipe to hug the frame and dump earlier at an angle to keep it off the rocks.

My Savvy tummy tuck is the older version with the motor mounts being the engine skid mount. I ditched that setup since I already had my own MML. I fabricated a new front engine skid mounting bracket that mounts to the underside of the frame. I also drilled a drain hole for the oil pan and welded in a support across the center of the engine skid, between the engine and the trans.

I've painted it black since this pic:

This is some great info, thanks a lot. It's along the lines of what I was thinking, I was just hoping I wouldn't have to dump anymore money than I already am to buy the skid, SYE, DS, control arms, etc. I just got the shipping notice that I should get the skid on Tuesday. I have a wheeling trip planned on the 24th and I'm debating whether I wait until after that to tear into it. Otherwise I basically just have one weekend to do it and hope that I don't need to order any additional parts. I think there's a good chance I will need to order something else.
06-08-2017 05:35 AM
Unlimited04 You'll need adjustable uppers and lowers. Set the lowers at 15.5" eye to eye and set the uppers to whatever you end up with to get the right pinion angle. You'll need a better rear track bar - I had to fabricate my own using an oxy-acet torch, the stock bar and the heim end harvested from a RE bar. I also redid my entire exhaust from the oil pan back to 2.5"...added flex coupler, flange between downpipe and rear cat, ground/cut the center crossmember to clear the rear cat, installed new muffler & extended the cat-to-muffler flange to clear the crossmember, reworked all exhaust hangers, reworked rear tailpipe to hug the frame and dump earlier at an angle to keep it off the rocks.

My Savvy tummy tuck is the older version with the motor mounts being the engine skid mount. I ditched that setup since I already had my own MML. I fabricated a new front engine skid mounting bracket that mounts to the underside of the frame. I also drilled a drain hole for the oil pan and welded in a support across the center of the engine skid, between the engine and the trans.

I've painted it black since this pic:

06-08-2017 05:30 AM
NotURMailman They also may have changed something with the design after they realized this was happening, I'm not sure. Like I said, mine was not the final production version.
06-08-2017 05:07 AM
uhohthe50
Quote:
Originally Posted by joe_jeep View Post
it might not be a problem, but my lj muffler is HUGE!
the tj muffler might be the same though, i forget.
The previous owner of my LJ put on an aftermarket muffler... I think its a magnaflow. Hopefully its smaller than the factory muffler
06-07-2017 05:12 PM
joe_jeep
Quote:
Originally Posted by NotURMailman View Post
I installed the early "B prototype" version of the SUA on my TJ and my muffler was trying to share space with the crossmember. I just added a small piece of pipe and a shorter muffler. But, I believe that may be a non issue with an LJ.
it might not be a problem, but my lj muffler is HUGE!
the tj muffler might be the same though, i forget.
06-06-2017 01:05 PM
NotURMailman I installed the early "B prototype" version of the SUA on my TJ and my muffler was trying to share space with the crossmember. I just added a small piece of pipe and a shorter muffler. But, I believe that may be a non issue with an LJ.
06-06-2017 12:33 PM
uhohthe50 This thread has an example of what I was thinking about with the tailpipe hitting. Maybe the difference is that it is the older version of the skid???
https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/sa...te-up-1547005/


Regardless, I don't have a tailpipe anymore. It sounds like I could run into issues with the exhaust further upstream though
06-05-2017 03:40 PM
JEK3
Quote:
Originally Posted by uhohthe50 View Post
Thanks for the info. It sounds like I need to install the skid and just determine what I need as I go. I was hoping I could get all parts on hand and ready to go so I could install it all one weekend and be done with it.

So should I just plan on biting the bullet and buying a full set of control arms while I'm doing it?
I bought everything I "thought" I would need, then sold off what I didn't use. I took a slight loss, but I figured it was worth it because I didn't lose any time waiting for stuff to ship. You might as well get the full set of CAs, as you don't want to find out the hard way that you need just a little bit more adjustment.
06-05-2017 02:04 PM
uhohthe50
Quote:
Originally Posted by biffgnar View Post
An LJ is a bit more forgiving as to amount of pinion rotation so could you get away with only uppers? Probably, but its not the best way to do it. Will you need angled TB bracket? Maybe. Don't even consider the shock relocators. If there is contact with the spring pads just grind down the back of them.

Many also choose to go to cable shifter when they tuck the tummy up tight.
Thanks for the info. It sounds like I need to install the skid and just determine what I need as I go. I was hoping I could get all parts on hand and ready to go so I could install it all one weekend and be done with it.

So should I just plan on biting the bullet and buying a full set of control arms while I'm doing it?
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