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  Topic Review (Newest First)
09-24-2019 08:19 PM
Rob K So I just figured out what the droning noise is from the front passenger foot well area. There's maybe an 1/8" up and down play where the cv axle enters the axle housing. Apparently it's fairly common for the splines to wear out prematurely on the intermediate shaft. The solution is to replace the cv axle and intermediate shaft. Might as well get an axle housing bearing and seal just in case. I must have knocked loose the crud or rust that was in the splines, plus the drippy paint on the cv axle makes it wobble a little more. That's why I started noticing the droning after working on the that side.
09-24-2019 05:26 PM
Rob K Maybe it all doesn't pressure wash off which is why it appears darker. Probably a good thing. Might have to use soap or chemicals and scrub if you ever wanted to get it all off.
09-24-2019 02:22 AM
Ralph77
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob K View Post
I've used similar rust converting products over the years. They help a lot, but the rust would eventually come back in our heavy salted road environment.



Mine was doing the same thing. Rust was forming in the seams and such. Spraying Fluid Film in the cavities seems to have completely stopped the rust inside the cavities and no more rust creeping out the seams. The Fluid Film continues to creep out of the seams and picks up dirt, but it cleans off real easy. I'm so happy the members here helped me to learn about such product. i love that it's non toxic. I won't have to worry about a rusted out body on a vehicle again, unless I buy it that way already.
Big fan of Fluid Film. As a matter of fact getting close to my yearly application of it for the winter.
One thing I like about it is how it appears to "condition" metal.
First year I used it I noticed that my front diff, knuckles, etc were a little rust red in appearance. Nothing crazy rust wise.
Well figured when Spring came I would neaten up under there a little.
So when I power washed off all the Fluid Film in April I noticed instead of it looking rust red it had become more of a mud brown in appearance.
Never did do any "housekeeping" there. LOL.
09-23-2019 04:57 PM
Rob K I've used similar rust converting products over the years. They help a lot, but the rust would eventually come back in our heavy salted road environment.



Mine was doing the same thing. Rust was forming in the seams and such. Spraying Fluid Film in the cavities seems to have completely stopped the rust inside the cavities and no more rust creeping out the seams. The Fluid Film continues to creep out of the seams and picks up dirt, but it cleans off real easy. I'm so happy the members here helped me to learn about such product. i love that it's non toxic. I won't have to worry about a rusted out body on a vehicle again, unless I buy it that way already.
09-23-2019 09:59 AM
Chereveco Hi, Rob

I took the Jeep to a Sandblasting facility, so they removed all visible oxide, then a clean up with high pressure air, then applied a coat of "high holding" Premier, allowed to dry like for 3 hours, then the product in the can "Corrostop", wich is supposed to be the best one down here in Costa Rica.

Then, couple of weeks later took the Libby to a car wash where they pressure washed all the possible holes in the "chassis", After a couple of days with all dried up applied the other "Corrostop" product, the one in the galon, it is supposed to kill corrosion by converting back oxide back to metal, like giving back to the metal the molecules that are lost by corrosion... Oxide changes color dark blue...

So far, three years later it still looks fine, just little corrosion stains coming out from the seams or places where the metal sheets join...

Perhaps next year I'll do a retouching, both into the holes and metal sheets joints...

At the moment, no peeling or paint fall off...

Sent from my SNE-LX3 using Tapatalk
09-22-2019 07:41 PM
Rob K Next time I'm going to copy you and paint the drivetrain a light color. So did you scuff the paint before spraying? How's it holding up? I feel like I've spent a stupid number of hours under the Jeep cleaning, sanding and painting.


I was talking to my neighbor that has worked in auto parts his whole life. He said to by the premium brake parts since they are coated very well these days and should last a long while. He also has been to paint school for his job. They tested POR15 and Chassis Saver and found them to have similar performance.
09-22-2019 12:38 PM
Chereveco It looks like my KK when I did the major maintenance three years ago...

Paint before installing is wise.

Painted removable parts are all brand new... Including the transmission support...

Sent from my SNE-LX3 using Tapatalk
09-20-2019 08:30 PM
Rob K Next year will be driveshafts, gas tank skid, oil pans and stuff like that. And probably some more touch up.
09-20-2019 08:24 PM
Rob K Rear brakes done. That should get me by for several more years until things are closer to being worn out and in need of replacement. When that time comes everything will get painted before install so the parts will live a long life and wear out instead of being killed by rust.


With the rear brakes I sprayed on 4 heavy coats of the VHT Caliper paint. A lot more than they recommend on the can. Paint seems a good deal more durable and I believe it could use several more coats. I think next time I'll look for a brush on paint that I can lay on thicker for a more durable coat. Sandblasting is going to be a better option also. I guess the new parts would need sandblasting also if I'm going to put a good coat of paint on them before install. Would be nice if you could buy them already done.
09-09-2019 09:33 PM
Rob K Thanks, but my luck has already run out. lol I thought the front was done, but the bearing is a little noisy now after using the slide hammer on the hub. The bearing grease might have cooked when the caliper seized also. I rotated wheels and swapped the rotors/pads from one side to the other and still getting a little rumble from the front passenger side. Had to order a new hub.
09-09-2019 02:36 PM
Chereveco
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob K View Post
Sprayed fluid film in the cross members and such. Front is done. Will start on the back brakes in a week or so.
Good luck with it!!

Sent from my SNE-LX3 using Tapatalk
09-04-2019 10:26 PM
Rob K Sprayed fluid film in the cross members and such. Front is done. Will start on the back brakes in a week or so.
08-31-2019 10:25 PM
Rob K All the body work I did two to three years ago with silver seems pretty good so far except this one fastener.
Apparently fasteners have a lot of edges that have a thin coat of paint. Obviously they need several coats. Then I suppose you'll have to wire wheel the paint off for repairs. Should be a lot easier than dealing with completely rusted ,seized bolts with rounded off heads. You know the drill.
08-31-2019 10:09 PM
Rob K Also did some touch up on a bunch of rusty drivetrain fasteners that were painted just last year. Also touched up the bottom of the diff that drags in the sand dunes and takes a beating. I'm thinking touch up will be less frequent after several coats.



By the way, when it's fully cured, Chassis Saver doesn't stick to itself very well. My touch up areas are peeling off a year later. You need to scuff every time you want to touch up.

Rear suspension arms are quite rusty after painting them last year. Will do them again when I paint the back brakes.


I've been having to repaint the spare tire and tire carrier every year. Rust keeps coming back a little.
08-31-2019 09:48 PM
Rob K Here it is, my runny and bubbly finish. Kind of wish I did the brakes in something other than silver, but they didn't have any colors I thought would look good.



I'm thinking the VHT caliper paint is not going to last to long. They should have been sand blasted instead of wire wheeled. Also I should have bought more cans and sprayed on a bunch of coats instead of two medium coats. Instructions say two light coats and one medium coat, but I'm thinking they need several more since the finish is not as durable as I would have expected. Might just be my prep work.
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