JeepForum.com - Reply to Topic
Thread: Broken Axle Reply to Thread
Title:
Message:

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the JeepForum.com forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid e-mail address for yourself.



Email Address:
OR

Log-in










  Additional Options
Miscellaneous Options

  Topic Review (Newest First)
07-29-2011 10:23 PM
fratis
Quote:
Originally Posted by cbloyer81 View Post
If he's going to go that route then he may as well stay stock. The U-Joint is the problem, not the shaft.
keep in mind you are comparing an rcv shaft to stock units. there is more difference there then just ujoints. there is nothing wrong with ujoints. many people have no problems with their chromo shafts with 300m ujoints. which is a more fair comparison.
07-29-2011 08:43 AM
Dynatrac The problem here isn't the u-joint, it's the axle shafts. The axle shaft ears are weak and they are flexing. This flex causes the clip to pop which, in turn, allows the u-joint to move and eventually fail. I'll agree that the clips aren't the best design but they have been around for decades. If you have properly forged axles you'll see very few issues with them.
07-29-2011 08:17 AM
SlvrJK08 If your gonna make the upgrade go rcv's. I blew up the yoke and ujoint in my d30 w/ the stock axles. Replaced them with some pretty expensive chromolly shafts, and twisted the splines on one shaft and blew up my spider gears at the same time. Mind you this is all with open diff's and 33's Long story short said company really dropped the ball on the warranty and I didn't get replacements. So now i'm back to some stock shafts I picked up from another jeeper and an aussie locker, jsut so I can use the jeep as a jeep again, lol.

I am however getting a pro-rock 44 with rcv's in the next few months b/c I'm sick of the weaksauce factory junk that is the d30.
07-28-2011 11:30 PM
Warlord2
Quote:
Originally Posted by cbloyer81 View Post
The housing is the same on the 30 and the 44 including the knuckles. The shafts and diff guts are what's different. That's why he should just get 44 RCV shafts and diff guts (ring and pinion, carrier, and locker) and keep on rolling. If he sleeves and gussets the housing he has now it will be almost as good as a 60 and he can do it all pretty cheap.
The tubes and C's are the same, the differential is completely different. Cant just gut a d30 and through d44 parts into it.....
07-28-2011 09:08 PM
Charles
Quote:
Originally Posted by Warlord2 View Post
If you EVER want to go larger then 35s and have a locker up front then I would save up for a d44 or d60.
The housing is the same on the 30 and the 44 including the knuckles. The shafts and diff guts are what's different. That's why he should just get 44 RCV shafts and diff guts (ring and pinion, carrier, and locker) and keep on rolling. If he sleeves and gussets the housing he has now it will be almost as good as a 60 and he can do it all pretty cheap.
07-28-2011 09:03 PM
McKBrew
Quote:
Originally Posted by Warlord2 View Post
its hard to actually break an axle with a open diff unless you really pound on it.
Not always the case.
07-28-2011 08:10 PM
Warlord2 Cheapest would be to just buy some stock used shafts...tack welding the U joint ends on.. Next cheapest would be upgrading to chromo and use some full C clips to hold the U joints in place, or tack weld. Next best way would be to go with RCVs (love mine) and sleeve/truss the housing. After that is gets really expensive.
If you EVER want to go larger then 35s and have a locker up front then I would save up for a d44 or d60.
I dont think I would spend $1200 on RCVs for a open diff D30......
The half moon C clips they use on the stock u joints are just horrible. I bet that one just fell out and it bound up, its hard to actually break an axle with a open diff unless you really pound on it. I would try and find a used set. Had to drive around with a rag in the tube for atleast a few months before I decided what I would do, so its not something you need to rush to replace.
07-28-2011 07:52 PM
Charles
Quote:
Originally Posted by allibaster View Post
What about welding the u-joint caps? That's a pretty weak spot, right?
Absolutely. The guy sounded like was about to drop some coin on an entire new assembly. This suggestion was as good if not better. Plus, he'll be RCV'd.
07-28-2011 07:46 PM
allibaster What about welding the u-joint caps? That's a pretty weak spot, right?
07-28-2011 07:39 PM
Charles If he's going to go that route then he may as well stay stock. The U-Joint is the problem, not the shaft.
07-28-2011 07:36 PM
allibaster What about a good set of chromoly shafts? You can get a package, including u-joints, for about $600.
07-28-2011 07:14 AM
Charles The housing is the same on the 44 and the 30 all the way to the knuckles. The difference is the axle shafts and the splines inside the differential. Your best bet is to get 44 differential guts, RCV the shafts, and then gusset and maybe sleeve the shafts. It sounds like a lot but it will be much cheaper than buying a ProRock 44. IIRC, they are close to $6,000. What I just mentioned shouldn't cost more than $2,500.

The axle shaft breaking is very common especially with the U-Joints. Most of the time the bearing caps fall out and get bound up causing the ears to snap. It's happened to me twice. I have RCV shafts now and not only are they twice as strong, it drives smoother because they are constant velocity. RCV stands for Rzeppa Constant Velocity. You can see how they work with this picture and read more here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CV_joint. The RCV at 40 degrees broke at something like 6,430 ft pounds and it didn't break at the CV, the axle shaft twisted, the stock axle snapped at the u at like 3,500 ft pounds. Plus, there is a no questions asked warranty.

07-28-2011 01:18 AM
richnev I don't plan on going bigger than 35s, I might and it is a very small might go to 37s if I can sneak them past the wife hahah
07-28-2011 01:17 AM
richnev Basically I broke the u joint at the end of the axle that connects to the wheel, and by broke I mean sheared in half. I want to replace the whole front housing, basically I just want to buy a complete system if that is possible... now on the flip side I have a wife and kid and so I dont want to spend all my extra money lmao or should I say my wife's money
07-27-2011 01:05 PM
Charles Pro Rock 44 with RCV.

http://dynatrac.com/products/jk/pro-rock44.html

After that deployment you should have plenty of dough.
This thread has more than 15 replies. Click here to review the whole thread.

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome