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  Topic Review (Newest First)
11-12-2021 08:59 PM
Louie4
Louie4's YJ

Rear driveshaft has new spicer u-joints.


I just need a flange adapter for my spare.

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11-12-2021 08:40 PM
Louie4 Good eye.

It was used to widen the other spring hangers. The poly bushings are about 3/16” thicker on each side versus the OEM spring eyes. I went from OEM bastard packs to the RE with poly bushings.

Links are a dream when I have time…I don’t have time. I feel like Im spending time at my actual house with my jeep like a mistress

And then return to my rental to my family.


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11-12-2021 04:59 PM
bruinjeeper What was that bat used for is what I'm curious about?
11-12-2021 04:29 PM
shaggyjim Mine were doing the same thing and would clunk badly changing speed. You might want to weld a 9/16 washer to the outside of the new hanger to beaf it up a little bit and keep it round.



Or links.... links don’t do that.
11-12-2021 03:33 PM
Louie4 I got three springs on until I got to the drivers side. The holes were just too wallered out and oblong. The 9/16” bolt moves way too much. Luckily I have a spare spring hanger ready to go on…I just need to cut the old one off and weld new on.



The side shot is deceiving because the hole is pretty large but the other hole mask it.


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11-11-2021 12:21 PM
Louie4 Got my rear springs on and I’m pleasantly surprised. I thought they would be really tall but it seems reasonable and they will settle. Just need to do the front now and rebuild my rear driveshaft.





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11-07-2021 12:42 PM
Louie4
Quote:
Originally Posted by fishadventure View Post
I think the ball yoke is available as a complete? A few more bucks maybe but it would cure it, right?

Pull out the welder and run a QUICK bead around the inside about a third of the circumference. It will shrink and come out. Gotta be quick so it doesn’t penetrate cuz then, well, it ain’t coming out, is it?
A new yoke and centering ball is about $92 + tax. last time I bought a new one (Spicer) it was maybe $45. The rebuild kit is $30 and it's a Spicer part. I thought it would be simple but alas...it's not. I may try putting bead on it.
11-06-2021 09:48 AM
fishadventure
Quote:
Originally Posted by Louie4 View Post
pulled the ball out of the u-joint holder but could not get the little race out. I broke two chisels trying to remove it. Still haven’t gotten it out
I think the ball yoke is available as a complete? A few more bucks maybe but it would cure it, right?

Pull out the welder and run a QUICK bead around the inside about a third of the circumference. It will shrink and come out. Gotta be quick so it doesn’t penetrate cuz then, well, it ain’t coming out, is it?
11-04-2021 08:02 PM
Louie4 Yes. The delivery box was 8”x8”x6” and I gave it to my wife because I thought it was hers. I was surprised to find out it was the kit.

I pulled the ball out of the u-joint holder but could not get the little race out. I broke two chisels trying to remove it. Still haven’t gotten it out.


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11-04-2021 03:44 PM
bruinjeeper It's great when rebuild kits fit in a little baggie eh?
11-03-2021 09:59 PM
Louie4 That’s what I’ll do, just flip the bolt. Never had an interference issue with my OEM box, but this one has a bigger bore.

Got my rebuild kit today.



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11-03-2021 07:38 AM
grandboost98 I have one of those steering box relocation brackets too. I was able to get away with flipping the bolt around so that the head could squeeze by the box
11-02-2021 07:20 PM
shaggyjim Yikes! You might need to change to a carriage bolt or something.
11-02-2021 05:11 PM
bruinjeeper No tow shackle interference?
11-02-2021 02:26 PM
Azhunter1 So that bracket makes it sit forward just a little bit? That would probably cure mine from the rub on my tie rod.
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