Why does RC 4inch lift require no Drive Shaft mods? - Page 2 - JeepForum.com
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post #16 of 25 Old 03-19-2014, 01:31 PM
Mickeylad227
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Quote:
Originally Posted by planman View Post
You were sold a kit by someone who doesn't know what they are talking about. RC kind of has a reputation for that. They do have some reps who actually drive jeeps, but most of them don't.

Until a couple months ago, they sold 1.25" body lifts to guys with 6 speeds when they knew it would cause problems--now they clearly state they are not for 6 speeds.

Until a few months ago, they sold 4" and 6" short arm lifts with fixed length control arms that they knew would not allow for proper suspension tuning.

Even now, RC sells a 6" short arm kit that they know will drive poorly and that most buyers will end up replacing.

Don't get me wrong, RC has some competitively priced stuff that, when properly supplemented, is a good deal. But, you will not get the correct answer from an inside sales rep who answers phones, doesn't even own a jeep, and has never done an install on a JK.


The rear driveshaft is short enough that with lifts at about 3"+ the rear driveshaft angles are steep enough that the CV joints will fail. It is not a question of if, but when. You might get 10-12k miles out of the rear driveshaft or 1k miles out of it, but it will fail at 4" on a 2 door.

It is just plain physics.

Then, when you replace the rear driveshaft with an aftermarket one, you will need rear upper control arms to adjust your rear pinion angle.

When you adjust your rear control arms for the correct pinion angle, your the angle will be steep enough that your rear passenger side spring will have clearance problems with the frame side trackbar bracket and/or the trackbar due to bowing springs. This can be fixed with lower perch wedges and spring retainers, and/or rear lower perch relocation with JKS brackets or cutting and welding.

Also at 4", you will lose wheelbase without rear lower adjustable control arms. Your axle will look funny because it will be located at the front edge of your rear fender well without longer rear lower control arms.

Unless you are going to run 37s or 40s, a 4" lift is unnecessary--especially on a 2 door.

Hopefully you bought the 4" that comes with all 8 control arms. That reduces the amount of missing parts you will need to supplement the kit over time.

Damn thanks for all the info. i might have to rethink getting the 4" lift then maybe go for something smaller

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post #17 of 25 Old 03-19-2014, 04:34 PM
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Originally Posted by MilitaryJK4455 View Post
Please dont come in the JK section and give advice on how stuff would work on a TJ, that is a good way to confuse newbs and start rumors.... Thanks for trying though.

I run the RC 4" and have not had any problems whatsoever with driveline vibes or any kind of driveshaft problems whatsoever... Do you have an auto or a standard?
Are you running aftermarket shafts? Usually, depending on the manufacturer/setup, a 3" lift MAY require a new driveshaft(s) . IMHO, a 4" lift definitely needs shafts. Unless you want your transfer case to eventually spill its guts out on the trail when your maxed-out stock driveshafts work to stress the housing and pull the sides out of it.

Also, most decent 3" kits net 4" of lift in the first place.
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post #18 of 25 Old 03-19-2014, 04:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Mickeylad227 View Post
Damn thanks for all the info. i might have to rethink getting the 4" lift then maybe go for something smaller
4" lift (proper) : full 4" lift with adj. control arms (8), brake lines, bump stops, shocks, springs, sway bar links; front and rear adj. trackbar; front/rear driveshafts... $4 000 min.
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post #19 of 25 Old 03-19-2014, 04:48 PM
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might want to add in a High steer drag and replace the tie rods. Ball joints. 4k+1k. no wonder my budget was so far off back in 2012.

2D has a rather short drive line as well. even at 3" it wont last. exception is mall jeeps. they tend to last longer.

My 3.5 still has a net 4.25 front with metal fenders, bumpers winch skid plates. after 2 years still sits the same. the only thing good about AEV was the springs. the rest i had to replace with stuff that cost more than that lift out of the box.

Go with Metal Cloak or Synergy, Currie(though the drop pit arms is a no no, unless you get a sector brace kit+400)

Rock crawler and Tera. are next along with others.

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post #20 of 25 Old 03-19-2014, 07:27 PM
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Yeah, then you're swinging at least 37s, plus wheels and axle upgrades to handle the meat. +$3500 to $9000 with an aftermarket front axle assembly... But I digress.
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post #21 of 25 Old 03-20-2014, 10:45 AM
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I would add to Planman's comments, that at 4 inches, even with the high pinion in the front, setting a reasonable pinion angle and proper caster will be a trade off IMO. Most assuredly, at 4 inches the Rzeppa joints will fail in the rear on a 2 door given a short time. Never lift more than needed for the tire/wheel combo you want to run, it raises the CG and roll center unnecessarily.
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post #22 of 25 Old 06-10-2016, 12:06 PM
jeisner
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Quote:
Originally Posted by planman View Post
You were sold a kit by someone who doesn't know what they are talking about. RC kind of has a reputation for that. They do have some reps who actually drive jeeps, but most of them don't.

Until a couple months ago, they sold 1.25" body lifts to guys with 6 speeds when they knew it would cause problems--now they clearly state they are not for 6 speeds.

Until a few months ago, they sold 4" and 6" short arm lifts with fixed length control arms that they knew would not allow for proper suspension tuning.

Even now, RC sells a 6" short arm kit that they know will drive poorly and that most buyers will end up replacing.

Don't get me wrong, RC has some competitively priced stuff that, when properly supplemented, is a good deal. But, you will not get the correct answer from an inside sales rep who answers phones, doesn't even own a jeep, and has never done an install on a JK.


The rear driveshaft is short enough that with lifts at about 3"+ the rear driveshaft angles are steep enough that the CV joints will fail. It is not a question of if, but when. You might get 10-12k miles out of the rear driveshaft or 1k miles out of it, but it will fail at 4" on a 2 door.

It is just plain physics.

Then, when you replace the rear driveshaft with an aftermarket one, you will need rear upper control arms to adjust your rear pinion angle.

When you adjust your rear control arms for the correct pinion angle, your the angle will be steep enough that your rear passenger side spring will have clearance problems with the frame side trackbar bracket and/or the trackbar due to bowing springs. This can be fixed with lower perch wedges and spring retainers, and/or rear lower perch relocation with JKS brackets or cutting and welding.

Also at 4", you will lose wheelbase without rear lower adjustable control arms. Your axle will look funny because it will be located at the front edge of your rear fender well without longer rear lower control arms.

Unless you are going to run 37s or 40s, a 4" lift is unnecessary--especially on a 2 door.

Hopefully you bought the 4" that comes with all 8 control arms. That reduces the amount of missing parts you will need to supplement the kit over time.
In your opinion, whats the best lift kit out there to fit 35 inch tires? My wishlist on RC's website has their 4 inch long arm kit and it says they recommend 35s with that. If 4 inches isn't necessary for a 2 door whats considered "normal"?
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post #23 of 25 Old 06-10-2016, 04:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeisner View Post
In your opinion, whats the best lift kit out there to fit 35 inch tires? My wishlist on RC's website has their 4 inch long arm kit and it says they recommend 35s with that. If 4 inches isn't necessary for a 2 door whats considered "normal"?
What 222doc said. But I wouldn't go over 3"
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post #24 of 25 Old 06-10-2016, 04:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nismosis View Post
Soooo, will i have issues or no? a little confuesed, lol
Yes you will

Quote:
Originally Posted by MilitaryJK4455 View Post
... No... if you have a standard tranny...
Yes. Front shaft. Replace it or it will over extend the boot, dry the grease, and seize the shaft.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Swagger View Post
Pushing 12K on my RC 4" lift w/ Auto Trans. No issues!
Again front shaft. It will break if you wheel. You might not wheel. OP might not wheel. The 4dr rear shaft is longer and not as affected by the lift, but my rear shaft on my 2dr 2.5" lift at full droop on a vehicle lift is damn near maxed out. Still okay. If you wheel... and disconnect... the front shaft will give you a problem at that lift height eventually. Matter of time. My front shaft boot tore the first time I had mine out after lifting...

4" lift, PR 44, PR 60, 5.13, 37 Toyo MT, ATX Slabs, Skids, PSC Big Bore, 2Way
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post #25 of 25 Old 06-10-2016, 04:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by planman View Post
The rear driveshaft is short enough that with lifts at about 3"+ the rear driveshaft angles are steep enough that the CV joints will fail. It is not a question of if, but when. You might get 10-12k miles out of the rear driveshaft or 1k miles out of it, but it will fail at 4" on a 2 door.

It is just plain physics.

Then, when you replace the rear driveshaft with an aftermarket one, you will need rear upper control arms to adjust your rear pinion angle.

When you adjust your rear control arms for the correct pinion angle, your the angle will be steep enough that your rear passenger side spring will have clearance problems with the frame side trackbar bracket and/or the trackbar due to bowing springs. This can be fixed with lower perch wedges and spring retainers, and/or rear lower perch relocation with JKS brackets or cutting and welding.

Also at 4", you will lose wheelbase without rear lower adjustable control arms. Your axle will look funny because it will be located at the front edge of your rear fender well without longer rear lower control arms.

Unless you are going to run 37s or 40s, a 4" lift is unnecessary--especially on a 2 door.

Hopefully you bought the 4" that comes with all 8 control arms. That reduces the amount of missing parts you will need to supplement the kit over time.
I was gonna say it, but planman has the rest....

4" lift, PR 44, PR 60, 5.13, 37 Toyo MT, ATX Slabs, Skids, PSC Big Bore, 2Way
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