Thoughts/inputs/forsee problems? - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 13 Old 04-22-2014, 03:11 PM Thread Starter
JohnnyWhitehead
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Thoughts/inputs/forsee problems?

I am new to the JK and not familiar with what works and doesn't. I just purchased a 2011 Rubi with auto. Thinking about putting Metal Cloak fenders on and run 35's with no lift. A steering upgrade is in the plans as well, but not sure which one, probably a Currie. I know a TJ would need a brake upgrade, but what about the JK? Are the brakes good for 35's, or would I need to look at an upgrade for them as well? What about bump stops? Anything else I am missing/over looked?

Also, what is preferred, an evap skid or relocation?

School me please, trying to learn as much as I can about this JK so I buy the right stuff once.

Thanks,
JW


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post #2 of 13 Old 04-22-2014, 04:37 PM
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Brakes are fine. Not sure on bumpstops with that set up but measuring is simple. Why upgrade steering? I'd just relocate the evap... I had mine skidded and never hit it. I now don't run one but if i did I'd just tuck it away some where, there all low pressure lines and easy to move.

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post #3 of 13 Old 04-22-2014, 10:25 PM Thread Starter
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Well I was under the impression the stock steering components are week and need upgraded to better quality parts just like on a TJ.

Also, what back spacing on wheels are suggested for 35x12.5?

I am debating on whether or not to get rid of the swaybar disconnect and just put an anti rock on there. But can a non lifted Rubi run an anti rock?

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post #4 of 13 Old 04-23-2014, 08:57 PM
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that auto and 35"s will want gears. 4:10 will be sluggish and it wont stay in 4th. most the guys with that auto run 4:88 -5:13. it will over heat the trans too, get a cooler.

in time the 35"s will tend to kill ball joints tie rods and drag links depending on use.

most run 4.5 back space. No idea on the anti rock no lift. off hand its a matter of link length.

brakes are ok. mine seems to stop very well for a lifted on 35"s. any bigger though and then the list grows the wallet gets light.

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post #5 of 13 Old 04-23-2014, 09:34 PM Thread Starter
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Ah yes, the gears... I am planning on dropping in some 5.38's. I don't wanna mess around with sluggish.

Can 15" wheels fit and work on a JK? 15" wheels and tires are so way much cheaper than 17's. Will it clear the brakes?

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post #6 of 13 Old 04-23-2014, 09:43 PM
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15" wheels sometimes/usually (take your pick) require some grinding of the brake calipers to clear the wheels. 17" wheels may be more expensive, but the tire selection also seems to be more plentiful. It's a case of pay me now, or pay me later.

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post #7 of 13 Old 04-24-2014, 12:40 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HappyTrails View Post
15" wheels sometimes/usually (take your pick) require some grinding of the brake calipers to clear the wheels. 17" wheels may be more expensive, but the tire selection also seems to be more plentiful. It's a case of pay me now, or pay me later.
Yeah I am not to keen on grinding on my brake calipers. But I can get a Goodyear MT/R in the 35x12.5x15 variety for $210 a tire. The 35x12.5x17 is $311. I am no mathematician, but that comes out to about $500 per set of shoes if I did my ciphering correctly. Over time that adds up.

Now, someone explain bead lock wheels to me. I know what they are and what they are for, I just don't understand this one thing. The bead lock only comes on the outside of the tire. But what about the inside? Is it not just as likely to unseat at low pressure as the outside? If so, then is there really a benefit to having bead locks?

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post #8 of 13 Old 04-24-2014, 07:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnnyWhitehead View Post

Yeah I am not to keen on grinding on my brake calipers. But I can get a Goodyear MT/R in the 35x12.5x15 variety for $210 a tire. The 35x12.5x17 is $311. I am no mathematician, but that comes out to about $500 per set of shoes if I did my ciphering correctly. Over time that adds up.

Now, someone explain bead lock wheels to me. I know what they are and what they are for, I just don't understand this one thing. The bead lock only comes on the outside of the tire. But what about the inside? Is it not just as likely to unseat at low pressure as the outside? If so, then is there really a benefit to having bead locks?
Yes both beads can go out. Its typically the outters and thats what most beadlocks "help" with. There are a few double beadlocks that do both inner and outer . For most people a poor mans beadlock (narrow rim) is good enough. Its really sucks to blow and inner bead or any bead when a beadlocks on though as its a pain tp get reseated as you have to take all the bolts off and such.

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post #9 of 13 Old 04-26-2014, 12:09 AM Thread Starter
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Guess I will stick with 17" wheels most likely non bead locks. Now, what BS is suggested for the JK? What BS is the stock Rubi wheels?

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post #10 of 13 Old 04-26-2014, 04:13 AM
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6.75" BS is OEM/stock.

You will want 4.5" BS or less.

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post #11 of 13 Old 04-26-2014, 08:45 AM
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I would do a little more homework on the 15's before you write them off. Most I have looked into fit without a problem, myself included (4 BS). From what I read most that had to grind was related to the back spacing they had. If you were to have to grind them a bit. It is a very small amount left over from the mold imperfections. In my opinion well worth the money saved every time I need new tires.

I also didnt have any problem getting the tire I wanted at nearly $150 less a tire. I was in the same boat as you are and wanted to save a bit of money for additional upgrades and 15's fit the bill. I would also look around and see if someone will let you drive their jeep on 4.10 and 35's and see if it is too "sluggish" for you. I for one didn't think it was that bad and I have 3.21's (manual) but its all a matter of opinion. Its not a vette or ricer but I can get into and around traffic just fine.
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post #12 of 13 Old 04-26-2014, 02:37 PM Thread Starter
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Has anyone running 15's ran into a problem with the amount of clearance between the inside wheel and calipers with debris? Small rocks or sticks or anything. I ask because I have a 4 wheeler and I had that exact problem. The stock aluminum wheels had about a 1/4" or less spacing between the wheel and calipers, and twice a rock got caught up in between and broke the caliper and once punched a whole in the aluminum wheel. I bought bigger wheels and never had another problem.

I do play in the rocks a little and well as forested trails and such. I would hate to create a problem by trying to save a few bucks.

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post #13 of 13 Old 04-26-2014, 02:53 PM
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no i have note. But no matter what size rim it is possible, just takes bigger rocks with more rim.

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