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post #1 of 10 Old 09-29-2019, 07:03 PM Thread Starter
Bizzyj
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New to me jeep

Hey guys and girls. I recently purchased a 2016 Jeep 4 door with a manual transmission. I would like to lift it. I’d like to do 6in and 37s.
What kit does everyone recommend and are 37s to big without a regear?

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post #2 of 10 Old 09-29-2019, 07:47 PM
Kruzin
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6 inches is waaaay too much and yes, you'll want to re-gear for anything over 35s.
I'd suggest a little reading. There are literally hundreds of this very same thread already in this forum. I'm sure you'll glean a lot of good info with a little time.

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post #3 of 10 Old 10-01-2019, 10:12 AM
cranbiz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bizzyj View Post
Hey guys and girls. I recently purchased a 2016 Jeep 4 door with a manual transmission. I would like to lift it. Id like to do 6in and 37s.
What kit does everyone recommend and are 37s to big without a regear?
How is your budget?

6" lift on a JK is way too much and very expensive. Running 37's is also very expensive. You absolutely have to regear for 37's. 3.21 gears won't cut it. You need 4.56 at a minimum, 4.88's is close to ideal and 5.13's is performance gearing. 37's also require beefed up axles, Big brakes and either a HD steering box or hydro assist.

If you are determined to do 37's, go 3 1/2" of lift by a quality vendor who includes everything (just about) that you need. That's going to cost upwards of $2500.

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post #4 of 10 Old 10-01-2019, 10:51 AM
222Doc
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37s on a d30 is a bad idea. 37s no lockers is silly. a d30 for 37s will end in failures of the d30 axles and ring. d30 for best reliability on a JKU that is rather heavy is 35s. they will need gears too, even with 3.21<forget it. 3.73 is still not enough for street. IF IF< it was a rubi with 4.1 it would get buy, forget towing. But a Rubi has a lower low range so it makes up for that. But on any other JK its 3.73 at best if they optioned it that way. They would be the JKs that have Max tow. Even auto rubicon it is an option for 4.1. so you need to know you gears. since that will cost more then the "average" lift cost.

6" on a jk is well past the control arms roll centers. You wont have any caster angle so you need a axles Clocked correctly. So NO average kit will be any good here. to be done RIGHT. in the money is no object area. This should be the point you ask your self why build a JK to this extreme? It would be close to cost to just BUY a used Buggy. That will be better then a Jk off road hands down.

6" to me would be. first must relocate the fuel tank on any jk to do the rear correctly. No one but Genright has the parts to even start this job and like i said $$$$$$$$ is no object. Once that tank is out of the way you can do a correct long arm 4 link and FLAT belly a JK. Unless you can weld you just spent about 10k in parts alone and you have no axles since NO one does this on d44s or a d44/30 its D60 time and a 14bt in back and now 37 is no issue you can run 40s coil over.


go 3.5-4.5max for 35s< past that the control arms are getting steep and that is the roll center issue. Drop brackets suck off road they take up 3" of belly. Long arm kits are nothing but more hanging down bolt on box of COMPROMISES.

3.5+ you need all control arms, track bar adjustable. To set the track and angles. stock fenders you need 3" bumps on 35s to clear for 11" travel shocks and fenders. though this bump is really for the shocks. they are 3" longer then stock in most cases. steering gets vague at 3.5+ this is do to the angle of the drag link. here is where a raised by flipping the drag link to the top and then raising the front trackbar mount up on the axle +3 to match the new drag angle that is as well 3". makes a huge change on steering input "feel". I would as well raise the rear axle track bar mount. they sell these mounts in bolt on or weld up.

for street use 35s is as big as you really want to go. Ball joints on 35s fail soon. on 37s they are about a maintenance item. Daily drivers/ tow? 35s kill towing with stock gears and kill mpg 37s you are in the under 14mpg club.

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post #5 of 10 Old 10-08-2019, 07:50 AM
wtjohnso
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I'd listen to people here. I had big dreams too and now more realistic. I went with 2.5" and 35's and it's awesome. I do plan to do a big brake kit, the brakes are a little soft with 35's.

Also, my personal observation, admittedly with the cumulative experience of installing one (1) lift kit... buy a high quality kit with all of the pieces, make sure to get adjustable control arms, trackbars and all of the other pieces you'll need.
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post #6 of 10 Old 10-08-2019, 02:01 PM
jeep63
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I came from 30 years of driving, wheeling and building YJs, so I was used to 6" of lift to run 35s.

The JK/JKU world is very different.

When I got my JKU, I realized how easily 35s fit. I mean you can do a LCOG build with just flat fenders and spacers. Or, you can lift it 2.5" and have a decent riding Jeep with enough room for 35s on stock flares. I really like the performance of my JKU offroad with 2.5 & 35s.

Do your research on 2-2.5" lifts and get what works best for your plans. There are all flavors from mall crawler ones to overlanding ones.

I ended up with a TeraFlex 2.5" and their 9550 shocks; you can pair whatever shocks you like with this left. I also run all 8 TF Sport Control arms and a TF Monster adjustable front track bar. Jeep rides great on and off road.

My recommendation is 2-2.5" lift and 35s; this will work well for you for a very long time; imho.


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post #7 of 10 Old 10-09-2019, 09:55 AM
Rob1999TJ
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It depends on what you are trying to do with it. What is driving the need for you to put on the 37's? Up to 35 ok without regear but 37 is a must . I have had several with 35s and no issue both auto and manual without a regear.
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post #8 of 10 Old 10-09-2019, 05:12 PM
Naddan
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Would you have to truss the axles for 35’s and this setup
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post #9 of 10 Old 10-10-2019, 07:44 AM
cranbiz
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Originally Posted by Naddan View Post
Would you have to truss the axles for 35s and this setup
How are you planning on using it?

If it's not a Rubicon, I wouldn't put any money into a Dana 30 axle. Save up for an aftermarket Dana 44. Start that fund with the money you save from not trussing and gusseting that Dana 30.

I ran a D30 on 35's. What I broke were the axles and the carrier, not the tubes or C's. Gussets and a truss wouldn't have saved me. The axle housing and C's were fine.

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12 JK, 2.5" Teraflex lift, Bilstein 5100's, BFG KM3's 37x12.5/R17
17 WK2 Trailhawk
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post #10 of 10 Old 10-10-2019, 03:36 PM
Naddan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cranbiz View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Naddan View Post
Would you have to truss the axles for 35’s and this setup
How are you planning on using it?

If it's not a Rubicon, I wouldn't put any money into a Dana 30 axle. Save up for an aftermarket Dana 44. Start that fund with the money you save from not trussing and gusseting that Dana 30.

I ran a D30 on 35's. What I broke were the axles and the carrier, not the tubes or C's. Gussets and a truss wouldn't have saved me. The axle housing and C's were fine.
Thank you that’s really good advice
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