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post #1 of 19 Old 02-27-2020, 07:36 AM Thread Starter
marshdrummer
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Lift Advice

Hey there! New jeeper and I know this has been beaten to death, so sorry in advance....2018 JK Sahara 2 door. Daily driver/Mall Crawler with occasional curb checks..possibly easy fire roads down the road. I am looking for a good on-road ride but a little stiffer than stock. I am putting on 35x12.50x20 which I have already bought. I am leaning towards the teraflex 2.5" budget boost with rancho 9500xl adjustable shocks. My second choice is the rubicon express 2.5" also with the ranchos.... No heavy bumpers or aftermarket accessories. Pros/cons/advice?
There's so much information out there, it makes it even more confusing at times....Thanks for all your help!

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post #2 of 19 Old 02-27-2020, 07:56 AM
cranbiz
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Good choice on the Teraflex lift. Same one I have, it's been excellent. I didn't go with the Teraflex shocks, I went with the Bilstein 5100's but for your use, the Teraflex shocks will be fine.

Your other option would be to get the kit without shocks and go with the Rancho 9000X shocks. Those are adjustable so you could fine tune the ride.

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post #3 of 19 Old 02-27-2020, 01:07 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the reply Cranbiz!
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post #4 of 19 Old 02-28-2020, 08:34 AM
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sure its a jk? what gears? 35s min. is 4.1 gears. stock they have 3.21, max tow option had 3.73.

many people toss on 35s, never consider gears . after they find on the street its lost its get up and go and mpg. over drive is about useless. the autos will go into a gear hunting as they are designed to always get in to 5th as fast as they can.

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post #5 of 19 Old 02-28-2020, 10:12 AM Thread Starter
marshdrummer
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sure its a jk? what gears? 35s min. is 4.1 gears. stock they have 3.21, max tow option had 3.73.

many people toss on 35s, never consider gears . after they find on the street its lost its get up and go and mpg. over drive is about useless. the autos will go into a gear hunting as they are designed to always get in to 5th as fast as they can.


Yes, its def a JK. It does have 3.21's.... I have researched and am in the mindset that I will most likely re-gear, and that it'll be about $2k to have it done...Thank you for bringing that point up! I didn't come across that info for quite a while into my research..along with reprogramming for tire size....


One more question....even with a budget boost, will I need a rear track bar bracket? If so, I may go with the rubicon 2.5" spring lift instead. I like their bracket much more than the teraflex add-on bracket....


Thanks again!

Last edited by marshdrummer; 02-28-2020 at 01:08 PM.
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post #6 of 19 Old 02-28-2020, 10:31 AM
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no. not needed at all at even 4"lift. The DP brackets lose 3" of belly at the frame. they get hung up on shelf's like a Bulaga whale. what happens is this say you are climbing up a steep shelf/ dry water fall. you cant make it then backing off to try again now you are hung up on the DP brackets. Its a hard beach too. if you try to get pulled off those brackets tend to bend or you will be just hung there. now you have to use say a high lift to be pulled back off.

I had those once and mine snapped and taco'ed( AEV POS). i even tried to make them much beefier, added .25x2" dom rings around the bolts welded into to a figure 8. it made then so the would not bend but and more over the bolts were protected< the lower bolts being 3" lower get roasted by rock. But they in the end broke in half.

street it wont matter as far as the down sides, but off road its like lifting it 2.5 to then lose 3". makes no sense to me. My opinion worth less then 2 cents to day....

another BS marketing scam. dont by a dual steering stabilizer.

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post #7 of 19 Old 02-28-2020, 11:04 AM
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I installed TeraFlex's 2.5" lift (not the BB) and instead of drop brackets, I installed the TeraFlex sport front lower control arms. They are slightly longer and help to restore caster; they made a noticeable improvement. I run the TF shocks too; I ran them on my YJ and had no issues with them.

Good luck.


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post #8 of 19 Old 02-28-2020, 01:07 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys! But sorry....I meant the rear track bar bracket.....
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post #9 of 19 Old 02-28-2020, 01:51 PM
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Most of what i will recommend is off road and hard use. Adding a taller bracket to either the front or rear axle brackets and OR to the frame one in front. Leads to the stock bracket failing. Since its made with 1/8 steel. The added leverage can make these rip right off wityh big tires in a high flex. As well known these can rip off even with just stock. might be more to shoddy welds from the factory as well and thin metal being worked against 35+ tires. Jls had this issue real bad first year when the robot welder missed the mark.

rear axle track bar mounts that raise it up higher. the GOOD geometry wise. it brings the roll center closer to neutral. can as well make the stock track bar fit. BUT the bad is its fixed so you can not adjust it, if its perfect; works. if its off say 1/8" nothing you can do. is 1/8" a big deal not really. Im kinda OCD so yea it bothers me.

Front Track bar mounts, the only time you can move the axle one up is for the drag link flip. then you must move that up 3" to keep it parallel to drag link that moved up 3" for the flip kits. Some lifts do it back wards( not recommended) these use a drop Pit arm and the lower the frame mount track bar down with an extension bracket. this does BAD things. it adds leverage to the frame mount. The drop pit adds leverage to the steering box. the effect is it makes both point more likely to fail.

I just ripped off the front axle track bar mount last week. It was a bolt on for the flip kit. It used the factory mount and a U blot and it as well mounted to sway bar tab for the link. Why, 37s hard use over 8 years made the factory mount fatigue and it snapped. left me with a jeep that would not be drivable . I just put on the Artic Ind. front raised track bar mount. can not even compare this to stock its 1/4 thick and is weld on. So after this event im all in on welding these type things as bolt on is just not a great idea, for real use. only cost like 70 bucks. But i do all my own welding so that saves me money .

I always have my Macgyver kit of things one might need for say a track bar fail or a suspension arm/mount fail. all you need is two, 2" heavy duty ratchet straps. basically you configure these into an opposition set up. It will get you back. short of a ready welder would be better but rather expensive. I have done this on my jeep now two times and other jeeps countless times. even leaf spring jeeps when they break U bolts or leafs.

for street use? brackets seem to be what is used a lot like AEV and others. box of brackets. near all of what i started with on this heep 8 years ago has failed from AEV. I should have researched more and not listened to the fan boys of anything. now i have a franken lift of parts that i have picked. from Curry ,Synergy Artic or i make it. still have the Nth degree springs they have done well from AEV< but they dont make those anyway....

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post #10 of 19 Old 02-29-2020, 02:10 AM
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@222Doc I would love to take a look at your setup! I agree, if you are going to use your Jeep for anything other than curbs spend the money and avoid the brackets, drop pitman arm, etc. My ‘13 came with the RC 2.5” garbage with brackets everywhere, drop pitman arm, and dual stabilizer and all the cheap that went into the lift initially is biting me now with failing steering box, bent brackets, and so on. Wish I knew how to weld
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post #11 of 19 Old 03-01-2020, 12:38 PM
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Lift Advice

TF 2.5 performance BB is a great start. We do this on all our Jeeps. Then as the factory springs age and sag or we add more weight, then we swap out to heavier lift springs.


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^^Jeff^^
2008 Black and Khaki Sahara Unlimited Trax-Lok rear diff. 3.5" Rock Krawler fr springs, rear TeraFlex 2.5 BB, D44HD/J8 w/ OX locker and RCVs, 37x12.50x17 Pitbull Rockers on ProComp 2635 Predator Alloys, AEV Prem Bumper, Smitty X2O 12K ETC..
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post #12 of 19 Old 03-02-2020, 07:27 AM Thread Starter
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TF 2.5 performance BB is a great start. We do this on all our Jeeps. Then as the factory springs age and sag or we add more weight, then we swap out to heavier lift springs.


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I have the chance to score some free JKU 70th (I think) anniversary springs...If I add those along with the BB, will I need to do the rear geometry correction seeing that it will add an extra 1" to the lift?


And thanks all for the replies...I know I'm overthinking, but I'd like to just do it once and be done...correctly.
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post #13 of 19 Old 03-02-2020, 09:33 AM
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Get the numbers off those springs. They might give you close to 2" of lift depending on what they are and on what you currently have.

06 KJ
12 JK, 2.5" Teraflex lift, Bilstein 5100's, BFG KM3's 37x12.5/R17
17 WK2 Trailhawk
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post #14 of 19 Old 03-02-2020, 10:32 AM Thread Starter
marshdrummer
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Get the numbers off those springs. They might give you close to 2" of lift depending on what they are and on what you currently have.
They came off of a 2007 JKU Rubicon. Front Part# 52126318AB, rear part# 68004458AA. He doesn't remember if he had the tow package. I tried looking them up, but I couldn't find anything that specified 'Heavy Duty'. I did find the 'Heavy Duty' part number which is 68004459. and I did read that the higher the part number, the stiffer the spring. But haven't found any other info about how high it will actually lift my JK. I may just grab them and hold onto them for the future.
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post #15 of 19 Old 03-02-2020, 02:03 PM
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18/58's are a bit longer than what usually came on a stock Sport 2 Dr. It's going to depend on what you have in yours.

The ideal springs for maximum lift on a stock suspension are 19/59's. A 16 hard rock has different numbers, the rears are like 60 or 61. Those give maximum lift on a sock suspension. 18/58's will probably give s 2 Dr about a 1.75" lift.

06 KJ
12 JK, 2.5" Teraflex lift, Bilstein 5100's, BFG KM3's 37x12.5/R17
17 WK2 Trailhawk
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