how to spend $3,000 on driveline/axle upgrades - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 12 Old 08-02-2011, 07:50 PM Thread Starter
Lynhalla
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how to spend $3,000 on driveline/axle upgrades

A little info: 2008 JK unlimited X, just upgraded to 6" lift, currently running 35" BFG KM2 but about to go to 37x13.5, stock axles with 5:13 gears, heavy duty adj. track bars, relocated brake lines, fox 2.0 shocks, etc..... My ride is a daily drive, dont do much rock climbing (live in florida) just a lot of beach riding, trail riding on sand and some water crossing.
I have about $3000 to spend and want to upgrade driveline and axles. I could buy a new dana 44 for front but that would use most of funds and I have already regeared. My question is, where is money best spent? Where are weakest points in driveline and suspension? I dont want to upgrade something just for sake of upgrading. So, should I upgrade axles with chrome moly axle shafts? Gussets? Should I replace drive shafts? Because I am now at 6" of lift should I upgrade to adjustable upper and lower control arms to get axles back in right position? steering upgrades? If I want to install lockers is it a waste to only do the rear axle and not the front axle at the same time?
Any feedback would be appreciated

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post #2 of 12 Old 08-02-2011, 08:29 PM
xplosivo1
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If your running 37's you need to upgrade your drive shafts they will fail sooner than later. I don't think its necessary to upgrade to a D44 if you are only on light trails, at most gusseting should suffice. I'm no expert, but that is what I would do if I were in your shoes.

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post #3 of 12 Old 08-02-2011, 10:02 PM
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Didnt say what lift kit you have, but I would get full adjustable control arms, track bars,tie rod, draglink and new brake lines. If you have an auto then chances are your front drive shaft is going to hit the tranny skid and limit flex, will need to do some cutting or get a new driveshaft. Could upgrade the ball joints, knockles, gusset the C's, sleeve the tube. I wouldnt worry about chromo axles tell you break the stock ones first. With your wheeling it sounds like a lunch box limited slip would work great, if not a detroit auto locker is bulletproof and works great in the rear.

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post #4 of 12 Old 08-02-2011, 10:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xplosivo1 View Post
If your running 37's you need to upgrade your drive shafts they will fail sooner than later. I don't think its necessary to upgrade to a D44 if you are only on light trails, at most gusseting should suffice. I'm no expert, but that is what I would do if I were in your shoes.
Driveshafts don't fail because of tire size, they fail because of increased pinion angles. The boot goes bad and then the grease escapes. They are plenty strong as far as torque capacity.

Your money is best spent sleeving and gusseting your front axle tube. Anything else that fails can be upgraded WHEN fails pretty cheaply. If you bend the axle tubes you're in for some $$.

Hopefully, as the guy above me said, you already have 4 adjustable control arms and new driveshafts because you did the lift correctly. Anything less is half finished job.

You can wait for the driveshafts to fail because if they go it won't be catastrophic.

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post #5 of 12 Old 08-02-2011, 10:46 PM
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You're at six inches of lift on stock steering, control arms and drive shafts?
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post #6 of 12 Old 08-02-2011, 11:02 PM
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Really need to know what lift you are running to answer this correctly but I would definetly toss a Currie steering setip onto the top of your list.

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post #7 of 12 Old 08-03-2011, 07:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ncb View Post
You're at six inches of lift on stock steering, control arms and drive shafts?
X1000


Unless you are running a very basic 3 in lift with another 3in body lift I have not seen any lift over 3.5ins that does not come with control arms already.

Also if you are at 6in lift you are also the only person that I have heard of that did not need to replace driveshafts after 2000 miles or so due to the angle and stress that is put on the driveshafts.

For what it sounds like sleeving and gusseting your axle will be almost top on the list espeically if you want to run 37's.


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post #8 of 12 Old 08-03-2011, 09:59 AM Thread Starter
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sorry guys, should have given you more lift info. Original lift was a procomp 4" spring lift. lift included 4" springs, brake line relocation brackets, extended bump stops, reat trac bar relocation bracket, shocks, and longer front sway bar links. I have since added fox shocks for 6" lift and tereflex adjustable front trac bar. I am not convinced that I ever had 4" of lift. When my jeep was next to other JK's with 4" lifts, my jeep sat noticabley lower. and after a couple thousand miles, the front sagged and i had a rake similar to stock. I then added 2" teraflex spacers to front and 1" teraflex spacers to back to give me more lift and correct the rake issue. a month ago I ran into a guy who had 6" procomp springs and wanted to trade for some other stuff I had so i just installed those. So theoretically, I have 6" lift in back and 6" in front but not convinced it is truely 6". I knew by going to 6" i would need to upgrade other components which is my reason for this thread. Not sure I can get everything I need so wanted to prioritize and get the most critical upgrades first. thanks
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post #9 of 12 Old 08-03-2011, 08:51 PM
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Want to take a photo of it? Just so we can see how tall it actually is?
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post #10 of 12 Old 08-04-2011, 05:28 PM Thread Starter
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heres a photo
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post #11 of 12 Old 08-04-2011, 05:47 PM
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heres a photo
1st cool stickers.

2nd measure between center of axle & bottom of stock fender flare. I believe that stock that distance is about 21.5" on Rubicon 4-door. If you are at 27.5" then you have a 6" lift.

I can't believe that I'm saying this; but, 6" is a lot bigger than most people think. Be kind.


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post #12 of 12 Old 08-04-2011, 08:23 PM
jrmandryck
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Address steering a new driveshaft and sleeve/gusst IMO

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