How much lift before you need adjustable trackbar? - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 14 Old 12-25-2009, 12:34 AM Thread Starter
crashtom
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How much lift before you need adjustable trackbar?

I have a 2" suspension lift on my 09 unlimited. To get the front and the rear the same height I'm putting a 3/4 inch coil spacer in the front. With the 2" lift I haven't had to touch the trackbar but by putting an additional 3/4 inch lift will I have to go to an adjustable Trackbar or can I get by with the stock? I've read that people go to the adjustable trackbar at 3" and above.

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post #2 of 14 Old 12-25-2009, 08:57 AM
MattJK09
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crashtom View Post
I have a 2" suspension lift on my 09 unlimited. To get the front and the rear the same height I'm putting a 3/4 inch coil spacer in the front. With the 2" lift I haven't had to touch the trackbar but by putting an additional 3/4 inch lift will I have to go to an adjustable Trackbar or can I get by with the stock? I've read that people go to the adjustable trackbar at 3" and above.
I don't think you will HAVE to have an adj track bar, but it depends on how much your axle shifts. It is usually not noticable by most, but I just ordered one for my 2.5" lift. Just for peace of mind and I already used a trackbar relocation bracket for the rear.

09 X 23S Flame Red 2door, tinted, Black Rock 997's, BFG 32" MT's, grab handles, RR XHD front bumper,BW trail armor,4door springs up front, KC's
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post #3 of 14 Old 12-25-2009, 09:08 AM
RacingRandie
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I have not changed anything. Put in the lift (2.5") and thats it other than relocating the rear brakeline. I'm afraid to change to much cause it looks good and drives good right now. Start changing to much might get DW and don't want that.
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post #4 of 14 Old 12-25-2009, 09:19 AM
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ANY change in height will result in axle shift. If you do it right, centering the axles will only make it drive better.

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post #5 of 14 Old 12-25-2009, 09:22 AM
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Any lift at all will start to move the axles off center. I had a 2.5" BB and additional .75" for winch and bumper for over a year with no issues at all. Front axles were 1/4 " to one side more than the other, which means it's only 1/8" out. So I re-centeresd the steering wheel and moved on.
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post #6 of 14 Old 12-25-2009, 10:04 AM
Xtremjeepn
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You should never need an adjustable track bar. Adjustable track bars have become a pet peeve of mine. They were created by lift fabricators that can't do math or geometry.

"X" amount of lift height should require a BRACKET in "Y" location to get proper geometry and handling. Fab guys found it easier to just make an adjustable rod to connect two points, over moving the mounting locations to the proper place.

The other issue with adjustable track bars is this. You lift the jeep, then "center" the axle at rest. that mean a longer track bar was used. So at full stuff you axle is off center again and can miss it's bumpstop target. Not to mention what the steering geometry is doing at full stuff. I would almost rather have my axle off center at rest than at compression!!!! A slightly off center axle going down the road is fine. (twisted axle will steer funny, offset is fine).



FWIW I am at 4.5" of lift and my track bars are a "fixed" length. Why? Because the geometry was done correctly by AEV.

Cole Ford
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post #7 of 14 Old 12-26-2009, 12:09 AM Thread Starter
crashtom
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Thanks for the help. After my 2 inch lift the front is still even and the rear is 1/8 to the right. Would the rear relocation bracket take care of this and which one?

Thanks
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post #8 of 14 Old 12-26-2009, 08:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crashtom View Post
Thanks for the help. After my 2 inch lift the front is still even and the rear is 1/8 to the right. Would the rear relocation bracket take care of this and which one?

Thanks
I went with the Teraflex rear bracket for like $30 and it did the job for me. Sturdy design, bolts to the frame.

09 X 23S Flame Red 2door, tinted, Black Rock 997's, BFG 32" MT's, grab handles, RR XHD front bumper,BW trail armor,4door springs up front, KC's
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post #9 of 14 Old 12-26-2009, 07:23 PM
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While I won't ( and cannot) argue with xtremjeepin, almost 95 percent of my miles (personal driving habit and style - not a lot of offroad) miles are done at highway or normal road speeds - the remaining 5 pecent off-road are at a very low, reduced speed where having an adj track bar that creates the geometry issues at full compression or full extension is just not an issue for me regarding handling... - they work fine at my normal driving speeds and do not create stress issues like brackets at very low off road speeds. just my 2 cents on adj. track bars

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post #10 of 14 Old 12-26-2009, 07:59 PM
Xtremjeepn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RockyClymer View Post
.....almost 95 percent of my miles (personal driving habit and style - not a lot of offroad) miles are done at highway or normal road speeds - the remaining 5 pecent off-road are at a very low, reduced speed where having an adj track bar that creates the geometry issues at full compression or full extension is just not an issue for me regarding handling... -
The full compression was only part of the issue.

You should read this.

http://www.aev-conversions.com/12thi...lve_things.pdf


With a lifted suspension you really need to lift the "roll centers" front and rear to at least match what you changed with the added lift height. So the 2.5" springs should require *AT LEAST" a 2.5" raise in the axle end mounting location front and rear just to return the roll centers back to stock. Keep in mind you also added larger tires, which move the COG farther away from the pavement so the chance should compensate for those too. So a 35" tire lifts the Jeep about 1.5" over a 32" tire. So you should have a bracket that raises the axle end mount by about 4" over stock to make it handle right at road speeds. This will make a HUGE difference in the way it handles and how the ESP reacts to it. It will also make it LESS PRONE TO ROLLING on the road.

Cole Ford
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post #11 of 14 Old 12-27-2009, 08:26 PM
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I've read it many times and have no beefs with what is said - and my opinion remains the same given my situation - if you want to pick the flysh!t out of pepper - then do it...

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post #12 of 14 Old 12-27-2009, 09:36 PM
Xtremjeepn
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If you are okay with **** in your food, or don't know any better. Then I guess it works for you.

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post #13 of 14 Old 12-27-2009, 10:12 PM
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I've read a few of these threads. The basic gist I get is that the more money you spend on a lift, the better off you are. So are budget wheelers really taking that much of a risk using something that is not an expensive, custom engineered system?

Are there any published accident rates or documentation that say that a particular brand or method of lift is inherently more dangerous?
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post #14 of 14 Old 12-27-2009, 10:21 PM
Xtremjeepn
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Money really has nothing to do with it. There are some very expensive lifts with poor engineering.

I actually took off a $3,000 set up to put on my AEV set up and am much more impressed with the handling of the less expensive set up.

I think there are a lot of fabricators out there just making jeeps tallere with no real understanding of the engineering.

When you do an apples to apples comparison of the AEV lift cost it really is no more expensive than other suspensions, it just completets the package to make it work right. Some cheap lifts are just parts, not complete systems.

Cole Ford
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