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Hardwiring dash cam

3K views 8 replies 3 participants last post by  Prot 
#1 ·
After the recent incident of me getting run off the road and breaking a finger in the steering wheel as I jumped a high curb, I decided to get a dash cam.

First and foremost, I want a clean installation, hence not simply plugging it into the cigarette lighter. Yes, this will be in my 2014 JKU Sahara.

I have already picked two top contenders as far as cameras, but I am researching the installation prior to purchase. It is so mole enough that even my old useless *** should be able to do it.

The most common method I keep reading about involves using a fuse tap to power the camera. I am somewhat hesitant about tgat because I know how finicky the Jeep’s electrical system can be, so much so that if you don’t stack connectors in the right order on the battery posts, chaos ensues.

Another method I see advertised is a cable that either goes from the camera to the OBDII port or in some cases, an adapter that plugs into the OBDII port with the other end being a USB port that can be used to power a camera or whatever. Both types feature pass through connectors on the OBDII end so you don’t lose access to the port or have to disconnect it to access the port. I am hesitant about plugging anything into the OBDII port needlessly.

Any thoughts on these two methods? Perhaps another suggestion for power?

As far as cameras, I am going to get either a Blackvue DR900-X or a Thinkware U1000. Neither of these are cheap but they are feature packed and record in 4K which should let me see license plates clearly.
 
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#2 ·
I recently installed a backup camera using the existing Garmin head unit in my 2013 JKUR. I found a product called Positap that makes a clean power connection without cutting/splicing any wires.
You can tap into the cigarette lighter feed for switched power and use any of the multiple ground points in the kick panel areas.


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#3 ·
I decided I am going with fuse taps. It makes for a very clean installation. My hand is busted up right now and I am having surgery on it on Friday. Can someone confirm that a 2014 JKU takes ATO fuses? I see options for fuse taps fir two other types such as atx and mini something or other.

I am still looking at camera options. I am leaning towards Blackvue DR900X but also consider Thinkware U1000.
Neither are cheap.
 
#4 ·
Despite my hand being busted up, I did manage to open the hood and the fuse box to find that it uses mini fuses. I pulled one and replaced it to verify the way the blades were made.

I also managed to win an auction on eBay fir a new / never used open box Blackvue DR900-X single channel dash cam for $260. That is an excellent deal since that camera sells fir a lot more.

I also purchased a blend mount instead of sticking it to the windshield. While I was at it I ordered a polarized lens filter which is easily removed and installed to improve picture quality on bright days.

The camera comes with a 32Gb card which is ok, but with 4K video a higher capacity is preferable. They are quite expensive as the camera has problems using other brand cards which don’t have as high of a specification. So I ordered a micro SD card from Blackvue. They are available in 32, 64, 128, and 256 GB sizes. I ordered the 128 because there was a substantial price jump between the 128 and the 256, so much so that I couldn’t justify it.

My hand surgery is tomorrow and the follow up appointment is on the 11th, so by the time I am healed up everything should have arrived and I will be able to install it myself.
 
#5 ·
I bought a Garmin 66W for my '13 JK and wired it with a fuse tap to the under hood fuse box. I used an empty slot that's hot only when the ignition is on. I drilled a hole in the fuse box cover and inserted a rubber grommet for the wire to pass through in order to keep a water/dust tight seal. I routed the camera wire behind the plastic windshield panels and through the passenger firewall/cowling area where there's just foam.
 
#6 ·
On 9/20, I was finally released from occupational therapy and the pain is gone.

So I have all my stuff laid out including a pair of fuse taps. One is for continuous power during parking mode (the camera will not allow the battery to be drained) and one is regular operation. This coincides with the wiring harness for the camera which is labeled battery, accessories, and ground.

Using the fuse box diagram and a test light to verify, M36 is continuous power and has a 20 amp fuse in that slot, so this will be perfect for the battery lead of the harness.

My next task is to locate a suitable slot for the accessory lead.
 
#7 ·
I have determined M8 is for the heated seats. It has a 20 amp fuse. I verified it is only hot with the ignition on, so this is suitable for the accessory lead of the camera harness.
 
#8 ·
M36 proved to be unusable because of the way the fuse tap is made, with the fuses in them, the K9 relay was in the way.

I found M26 for the power mirrors always has power and there isn’t anything in the way. The power mirror fuse is only 10 amps but it is fine as long as you plug the original 10 amp fuse into the appropriate slot on the fuse tap to complete that circuit and not the fuse slot for the accessory you are installing. I tested this with the test light.

I will do pictures later, as I am just getting my work laid out.
 
#9 ·
I couldn’t mess with this yesterday because I was dealing with something. Later on today I have to go out of town, possibly spend the night but that still gives me some time today.

I located a home to route the two wires from inside the cab to the fuse box abd pushed a clothes hanger through it to verify where it comes out as.

As you can see, I like carefully planning out my work before actually doing it so I don’t end up with an unfortunate surprise.

My next thing is figuring out how to get wires out of the fuse box. Yes, everyone drills holes in the lid then seals it up with silicone. I suppose that works and if I need to take the lid off then just simply unplug the two fuse taps. Still, I am thinking about possible alternatives.

The power feed for the fuse box has the big wire exiting out the side going down, but that part is sealed off with the barrier and knife edge that prevents water intrusion into the rest of the fuse box.

It floods frequently in my area and I sometimes find myself having to drive through water, so that’s why water tight integrity is more important to me than some other people. Besides, I like a clean OEM appearance of aftermarket accessories and shake my head at sloppy installation work, particularly when it comes to electrical.
 
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