Death Wobble- need new shocks - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 17 Old 09-19-2016, 08:10 PM
Sheeks
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Death Wobble- need new shocks

I recently started experiencing the death wobble. I had my 2010 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon 2 door(stock) looked at and I was told it was because my alignment was thrown off which was caused by my shocks being worn out. I am having my alignment done and need to replace my front shocks(and steering stabilizer) soon.

My question is, what shocks would anyone recommend to a moderate off-roader that's on a bit of a budget? Also, I've been planning on lifting my jeep 2 inches or so in the near future. Does this make a big difference in what I should buy?

Although I don't have much knowledge on how to lift my Jeep, I am confident I can at least install the new shocks myself. If I bought new shocks to get me by for the next few months, would/should they be replaced when I eventually lift my Jeep anyways?

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post #2 of 17 Old 09-20-2016, 08:54 AM
Kruzin
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Shocks have nothing to do with alignment or death wobble.
Alignment is adjusted with other suspension components (tie rods, control arms, etc.). Shocks do nothing to change that alignment, they simply dampen the suspension.
Death wobble can be caused by any number of suspension issues, there's tons of threads about it.


If you plan to lift it, you will want to wait till then to do the shocks. The shocks need to be the proper length for the amount of lift you go with.

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post #3 of 17 Old 09-20-2016, 09:14 AM
Sheeks
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They can cause alignment to be thrown off due to off roading with bad shocks though(from lack of dampening) correct? So they caused my alignment issue therefore causing the death wobble in the end.

This is what I was told. Correct me if I'm wrong.
 
post #4 of 17 Old 09-20-2016, 09:25 AM
Ross
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shocks go up and down DW goes right to left, maybe left to right. You could run without shocks and not have death wobble.


You should be able to run without a steering stabilizer and not have DW. A brand new tight steering stabilizer may cover up DW for a while, but it isn't fixing it.

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post #5 of 17 Old 09-20-2016, 09:27 AM
Kruzin
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I don't see how that would be the case.
Shocks on these do not control the alignment. You could take the shocks off the vehicle, and your alignment would not change. No matter how worn they are, they will not cause the vehicle's alignment to go out of spec.
This would not be the case on say a passenger car with struts, where the struts are an actual structural part of the suspension's geometry.


And being out of alignment alone will not cause death wobble. There is something else worn out in there.

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post #6 of 17 Old 09-20-2016, 09:30 AM
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First, find a well regarded 4x4 shop or a locally owned old school frame, suspension, and alignment shop and have them work on your stuff. Retail tire stores that also do alignments and install parts are usually helpless and clueless with diagnostics and especially with 4x4's.

Whoever told you that story is among the helpless and clueless.

Buy some low mileage used shocks from somebody who just lifted their Jeep Wrangler Rubicon until you do your own lift. Fix the Death Wobble according to the numerous postings you find here on JeepForum. DW can be triggered by tire issues, but the root cause of DW is almost always worn out, loose, or damaged suspension and steering parts.

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post #7 of 17 Old 10-04-2016, 10:53 AM
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Thank you for your reply. Do you have any recommendations on the best place to buy used shocks by chance?
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post #8 of 17 Old 10-04-2016, 12:12 PM
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Thank you for your reply. Do you have any recommendations on the best place to buy used shocks by chance?
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post #9 of 17 Old 10-04-2016, 12:34 PM
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Bad shocks will not cause or have anything to do with the alignment possibly being off. Neither will a bad steering stabilizer ever be the cause of Death Wobble. There's more info you may find interesting in this post... https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f27/n.../#post36497689

And moved to the JK Technical forum where JK technical discussions take place and the JK gurus hang out.

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post #10 of 17 Old 10-04-2016, 07:22 PM
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Just my two-cents, but I recently removed the front track bar, loosened the fasteners on the upper, lower control arms and removed the sway-bar links to replace the front coils on my Jeep. During reassembly I was adamant about ensuring all fasteners were torqued to specifications so I ordered a new CRAFTSMAN 20-150 Torque Wrench. Torqueing the track bar and lower control arm fasteners to 125 foot-pounds and the upper control arm and sway-bar link fasteners to 75 foot-pounds was a PITA but I can understand the importance of ensuring the track bar fasteners are torqued correctly so as to prevent any slop in the bolt-holes in the support brackets on the axle and frame.
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post #11 of 17 Old 10-04-2016, 08:25 PM
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Death wobble... 98% of the time is cause by one or more of these three things; front end alignment, the track bar bolt and/or bushing, or wheel balance. That's it, plain and simple. The two times I've experienced full blow DW; both times it was due to a tire/wheel that was NOT balanced to a true 0 to 0 balance. Getting a tire to almost true 0 to 0 just isn't good enough. It needs to balance out true 0 to 0... Wheel weights get slung off wheels both on and off road. Find a competent shop that can check tire balance and do a decent front end alignment. Get them to check the front end alignment and toe-in. Lastly check for loosening of the trac bar's bolt (axle end) and/or a worn trac bar bushing. This is a major culprit of wobble as well. The torque spec for the trac bar bolt on a TJ is 55 ft lbs. I don't know what it is on a JK because I just got one Friday night. I'm sure someone here will chime in on what the torque spec is. Hope this helps OP.

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Sorry master, Dont whips me, I's do betta next time..
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post #12 of 17 Old 10-05-2016, 02:37 AM
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I always match-mark the bolt head to the frame and the nut to the frame, just in case I cannot locate the required torque specs, I can reinstall the fasteners in the same location. I have forgotten where, but I located a torque spec sheet after I reinstalled the track bolts and tightened the control arm fasteners. Lo and behold, my match-marks matched-up with the torque value sheet.
Track Bar fasteners: 125 Foot-Pounds
Upper Control Arm fasteners: 75 Foot-Pounds
Lower Control Arm fasteners: 125 Foot-Pounds
Front Sway-Bar fasteners: 75 Foot-Pounds
Drag Link Adjuster Pinch Clamp Bolts: 45 Foot-Pounds. I did not tamper with the pinch clamp bolts and adjuster because the position of the steering wheel steering wheel did not change after I installed OEM "17" front coil springs.
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post #13 of 17 Old 10-05-2016, 10:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Amtrack View Post
I always match-mark the bolt head to the frame and the nut to the frame, just in case I cannot locate the required torque specs, I can reinstall the fasteners in the same location. I have forgotten where, but I located a torque spec sheet after I reinstalled the track bolts and tightened the control arm fasteners. Lo and behold, my match-marks matched-up with the torque value sheet.
Track Bar fasteners: 125 Foot-Pounds
Upper Control Arm fasteners: 75 Foot-Pounds
Lower Control Arm fasteners: 125 Foot-Pounds
Front Sway-Bar fasteners: 75 Foot-Pounds
Drag Link Adjuster Pinch Clamp Bolts: 45 Foot-Pounds. I did not tamper with the pinch clamp bolts and adjuster because the position of the steering wheel steering wheel did not change after I installed OEM "17" front coil springs.
These specs are right for the front of the JK.

To the OP, how many miles on the Jeep? Being a 2010, I would be willing to bet it is the ball joints. They are the number 1 cause of DW and are known to go out on the JK's with anything over 50-60K. If they are the original ball joints, I would check there first. We can do a set of Synergy ones for pretty cheap. Let us know.

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post #14 of 17 Old 10-05-2016, 12:21 PM
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OP, to rule out ball joints jack the front end of the JK up and set it atop some jack stands securely. Use the jack as a back up to the jack stands for redundant safety. Then grab the front tire at 6:00 and 12:00. Yank the tire at the aforementioned positions back and forth. Repeat the process to the other side. If you have no movement with the wheel then your ball joints are fine. This is an easy way to check ball joints and will save you lots of cash IF they check out fine with no movement... instead of throwing money at parts that don't need replacing. Now if you were on 37" tires and had 80K on the odometer I would have mentioned the above ball joint check as well in my previous thread above. But I believe I read you have stock-ish sized tires and no lift if I'm not mistaken. So I didn't mention the ball joint check...

03' Sport, 4.0L, 3.73, 5 speed, D44/D30, 3 inch coil/shock lift, RE track bar, Tera disco's, 35x12.50's Dunlap Mud Rovers MT's, Spidertrax spacers, Viper 5000 alarm, Tuffy console, LOD extreme bumper/tire carrier and front bumper, A-Z rockers, AA SYE, Tom Woods DS, JKS Rear UCA's.
Quote:
Originally Posted by KKiowaTJ
Sorry master, Dont whips me, I's do betta next time..
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post #15 of 17 Old 10-05-2016, 03:36 PM
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Everyone else is exactly right, neither alignment nor shocks have anything to do with DW. That is entirely a suspension issue, so save your money on the shocks. If a shop told you otherwise, never step foot in that place again. Plus, if you lift your Jeep, you will need either new shocks, or you could go with shock extensions, but the stock shocks will not be long enough after installing the lift.

To address your DW, I would suggest that you don't start replacing anything until you first determine that something is actually broken or worn out. Start by loosening your control arms, track bar, steering stabilizer, etc, then retorque everything to spec. Your DW could simply be loose parts, but unless you fix it now, it will quickly turn into worn or broken parts.

Also, do alot of reading on this forum. I have learned a tremendous amount of information from others on this site, so this is a huge resource for information. Depending on where you live, you may even be able to find a reputable 4x4 shop from recommendations on this site.

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