DEATH WOBBLE!!! Holy CRAP - Page 5 - JeepForum.com
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post #61 of 90 Old 09-15-2009, 08:59 PM
Imped
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepbronco1 View Post
Damn that sucks!!! Talk to a jeep specialist today in ft worth, I mentioned my prob he says he always looks at the caster and track bar bushings. i asked what I should do he said replace with teraflex track bar he said there real good!!! I asked about johnny joint he said its good for wheeling but if I have shimmy and dw issues I need something secure and tight!!! so I may do teraflex plus they have replacement bushings in case they go bad again!!
I'd talk to a different "specialist" then. Let's think about this in a logical manner....Currie and JKS both make some of THE BEST products on the market that are designed to perform outstanding on and off the road. The track bar is arguably the MOST crucial part in keeping your axles under the jeep. Try to steer or go anywhere without one of the ends of a track bar hooked up. Not gonna happen and you will die. Now, let's think about how the Johnny joint actually connects. The 5/8" bolt (assuming since that's what mine uses) goes through the sleeved inner ball (with an ID of just barely over 5/8") very snug with no play and is secured by a large nut. That is your rigid connection on the frame side. Sure, the joint can move AROUND this rigid connection, providing you with much less-inhibited movement of the track bar, but by no means will this movement around the fixed ball provide any sort of DW syndromes. The two ends of the track bar are still fixed and not going anywhere. This is a setup that's BETTER than stock. I'm not sure why this is so difficult for some of you to comprehend...


OlllllllO

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post #62 of 90 Old 09-15-2009, 09:07 PM
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imped,

someone on the other forum mentioned that the johnny joints are worse for areas that get salted in the winter vs. the rubber bushings. Is this true?
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post #63 of 90 Old 09-16-2009, 07:04 AM Thread Starter
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oh really is your terra working good? which one you got, they have like 3 types I cant figure which one to get. And remember thats just one mans opinion on the currie so it may be great like the guy on the post!!! I hate tough stuff like this. I just got home last night late jeep was shaking like crazy at 55 no ddw i got a torque wrench about to pull my track bar I hope I find the culprit there!! then gonna call jeep about replacement bushing to hold me over for now!!!
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post #64 of 90 Old 09-16-2009, 07:07 AM
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When you say shaking, what do you mean? Is the steering wheel actually moving back and forth visibly?
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post #65 of 90 Old 09-16-2009, 07:12 AM Thread Starter
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Heres the place I called!! They do tons of crawlers and worked on my 66 bronco years ago!! Same dude there for over 10 years!! I like to talk to people in person or atleast on the phone.... He said the johnny joint is good and it may fix my prob but if something is moving the JJ which (i understand is locked in place via the bolts) movement is causing my prob that the last thing I want at this time. I beleive its a great product I just want to fix my daily driver before the DW tears my vehicle apart. I forget the guys name but feel free to call

No Limits 4X4 Jeep Customizing and Mahindra Scorpio Dealer located in Arlington, Texas. Close to Dallas and Fort Worth - No Boundaries 4X4
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post #66 of 90 Old 09-16-2009, 07:16 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hellbound13 View Post
When you say shaking, what do you mean? Is the steering wheel actually moving back and forth visibly?

Ya visible and you feel it. My jeep looked like what you see on the you tube video i posted page 1 before I put my old SS on there... it happens only at 55 slowing down and been driving over 10 minutes!! 10 minutes that sound weird huh I that waht makes me think its rubber becuase its probably getting loose as im driving
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post #67 of 90 Old 09-16-2009, 08:22 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SoCalJK View Post
I may be wrong bu the specs I use for track bar and lower shocks are different to these. I use 50 for lower shock mounts and 135 for the track bar, both ends.
Hey do you have all the torque specs for the JK since the other torque specs posted were for a TJ.

Thanks
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post #68 of 90 Old 09-16-2009, 08:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepbronco1 View Post
Hey do you have all the torque specs for the JK since the other torque specs posted were for a TJ.

Thanks
Here ya go..

Project-JK.com - Jeep JK Wrangler Resource » Jeep JK Wrangler Torque Settings
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post #69 of 90 Old 09-16-2009, 08:27 AM Thread Starter
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awesome thanks
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post #70 of 90 Old 09-16-2009, 08:48 AM
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When you end up realizing that a JJ on your track bar has nothing to do with DW, don't tell me I didn't tell you so.

OlllllllO

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post #71 of 90 Old 09-16-2009, 08:57 AM
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Someone should make this a tech sticky, this is great info

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeep89JV View Post
DW can be many things...mainly on suspension worn parts, or not properly aligned, balanced. If you're going through steering stabilizers that means what, its not that..Start with the track bar/bracket on the axle(Seen as most common)

A post i've seen a few times and bookmarked for this very reason...

-Check your Tires
1. Out of balance tires can cause shaking in the front end, which can lead to Death Wobble. A tire/rim that has been balanced can still have internal defects that lead to DW.
2. Make sure all of your lug nuts are tight, (Sounds elementary but it happens to the best of us)

-Make sure you have a good alignment
1. After you get an alignment done, have them print out the numbers for you. An XJ should have a 7* positive caster angle. A lifted XJ can’t always have that high of a number because the pinion would become out of alignment with the front driveshaft. Pinion angle takes precedence over caster.
2. Make you sure you go to a place that will adjust the caster if necessary (either by shims in the frame side of the LCAs, or adjustable LCAs).

-Check your Track Bar
Play in the track bar can cause the axle to shake.
1. Bushings - check to see that they are not worn. Looks for cracks, and excessive play)
2. Angles - this angle should be the same as your draglink. Use an angle finders you can get at sears to determine this, don’t just eye-ball it.
3. Bolts – Make sure all bolts are tightened down to spec (some lift components have a different torque spec then)

-Check the Axle, your mounts may be worn
1. Check the axle mount. Here is a good write up on a wallowed out bolt hole
Jeepin.com - Fixing a trackbar bracket
2. Check your Universal joints, a binding or lose U-Joint can cause DW
3. On the frame end if you still use the conventional Tie Rod End or (TRE) make sure that there is no play in this, as play can cause DW.
4. Look/Check for worn/torn boots on ball joints/tie-rod ends.

-Check your Frame
1. Small cracks in the frame can cause the steering box to feel loose, Shaking from DW can only make this worse. 33’s and larger should have some form of Steering box brace, or frame brace in.
2. If you have upgraded your frame mount, make sure its cranked down nice and tight. (best to use an impact gun)
3. A busted Frame Mount can cause play in the front end causing DW (Keep a watchful eye on the welds as welds in sheer can break over time.

-The more adjustable parts the easier it is to tune in your lifted suspension.
1. Adjustable Track Bar
2. Adjustable Upper and Lower Control Arms (upper ones above 4” of lift). Not only are they adjustable, but they are stronger.


-Things to remember:
1. After any lift, get your Jeep professionally aligned, this is a REQUIREMENT, not a suggestion.
2. A Steering Stabilizer (SS) is not a quick fix for DW.
3. Make sure that the lift you purchase comes with all the required parts for a safe driving vehicle. (as long as its going to be a DD)
4. PLEASE ALWAYS DRIVE WITH YOUR FRONT SWAY BAR CONNECTED!

Entire list of everything that can cause death wobble:

-Front tires out of balance
-Front alignment out of spec
-Loose track bar
-Worn track bar bushings
-Worn track bar end
-Needing an adjustable track bar
-Bad bushings/joints in control arms
-Worn/damaged steering stabilizer
-Worn/damaged shocks
-Worn/damaged tie rod end
-Bad U Joint
-Bad ball joint
-Loose frame mount
-Steering box looseness
-Need drop pitman arm
-Driveshaft(s) not balanced
-Bad front hub assembly


Torque specs(TJ):

Item .........................……......Torque Ft. lbs. .............. Nm

Lug nuts (1/2 X 20 w/ 60* cone) .... 85-115 .............. 115-150
All tie rod ends .....................…..... 55 ...................….. 74
Steering (both ends) ..............…..... 55 ................….... 74
Shock absorber upper nut .............. 16 ................….... 22
Shock absorber lower nuts ............. 17 ................….... 23
UCA frame end .....................…...... 66 ..............…..... 89
UCA axle end .........................….... 55 ................….... 74
LCA frame end ......................…..... 85 ...................... 115
LCA axle end .........................….... 85 ...................... 115
Track bar frame end ..............…..... 60 .................…... 81
Track bar axle end .................….... 40 ..................…... 54
Track bar bracket bolts ..........…..... 92 ...................... 125
Track bar bracket nut .............….... 74 ....................... 100
Track bar bracket support bolts ...... 31 ....................... 42
Hub bolts (3) ............................…. 75 ....................... 102
Hub- axle bolt ..........................….. 175 ..................... 237

Alingment specs(TJ) (stock):

Angle ............. Preferred ........... Range ............. Max R/L diff.

Caster ............ +7.0* ........ +5.25* to +8.5* ......... 1.25*
Camber ........... -0.25* ....... -0.75* to +0.5 ........... 1.0*
Total Toe-in .... +0.25* ....... 0* to +0.45* ............. .05*
Thrust angle .... 0* to ± 0.15*

Show pics of several angles of your rig, you'd be surprised what another eye can probably seen. Otherwise good luck bro

00 Wj sold
88 Yj 4.2 red
UNITED STATES MARINE CORPS
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post #72 of 90 Old 09-16-2009, 10:45 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by imped4now View Post
When you end up realizing that a JJ on your track bar has nothing to do with DW, don't tell me I didn't tell you so.

haha ill let you know if it makes you feel better!!!

also just pulled my stock track bar off the bushing look fine to me I really cant see any wear also the brackets looks good! THE only weird looking spot is on the bracket by the frame it almost looks in-caved, but it looks like its suspose to be this way because the powdercoat is still on it. So im gonna go look at a stock bar with my bar and check if mine looks worn out and will see what happens from there!!!! has any body ever heard of the control arms causing the DW. those are the only bushings to me that look a little bit aged and worn!
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post #73 of 90 Old 09-16-2009, 10:54 AM
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To check the bushing on the track bar put a screw driver through the whole and pull on it. You will then see if the rubber bushing seperate from the trackbar itself. Also male sure the bolt in your trackbar mount holes on the axle and frame fit snug and there is no wiggle room there
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post #74 of 90 Old 09-16-2009, 11:05 AM Thread Starter
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alright it looks like the bolt has wiggle room but its the stock bolt!!! only way to change that would be move up a size on the bolt to make it real snug, that seems weird though! also just messed with bushing there is hardly any play so........ Im about to look at the brand new one.. heck it may not be my track bar!! I did see a scratch on the inside of the bracket as if it had moved some... strange..... ill keep ya updated
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post #75 of 90 Old 09-16-2009, 02:11 PM
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For what it's worth, I just came back from Alignment Factory (Miami, FL). They said, with certainty, my pulling-to-the-right problem is the trackbar. A new one has been ordered.
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