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post #16 of 19 Old 07-29-2011, 12:30 AM
Warlord2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cbloyer81 View Post
The housing is the same on the 30 and the 44 including the knuckles. The shafts and diff guts are what's different. That's why he should just get 44 RCV shafts and diff guts (ring and pinion, carrier, and locker) and keep on rolling. If he sleeves and gussets the housing he has now it will be almost as good as a 60 and he can do it all pretty cheap.
The tubes and C's are the same, the differential is completely different. Cant just gut a d30 and through d44 parts into it.....


07 JK 2D X model with 6 speeds. Full Traction 3" ultimate lift kit. 315x75x16 Toyo Open Country M/T on Rock crawler procomp rim. Ruby dana44's front sleeved inside/outside C truss and rear with 5.13's gears. Homemade rock guards, rear bumper w/tire carrier, oilpan/tranny skid, evap canister skid, light bar, switch pod. Riddler diff covers, Cobra 75 w/wilson antenna, Polk speakers, 10" sub, 2x Amps, Lightforce 240 drive light, backup lights, rock lights.
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post #17 of 19 Old 07-29-2011, 09:17 AM
SlvrJK08
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If your gonna make the upgrade go rcv's. I blew up the yoke and ujoint in my d30 w/ the stock axles. Replaced them with some pretty expensive chromolly shafts, and twisted the splines on one shaft and blew up my spider gears at the same time. Mind you this is all with open diff's and 33's Long story short said company really dropped the ball on the warranty and I didn't get replacements. So now i'm back to some stock shafts I picked up from another jeeper and an aussie locker, jsut so I can use the jeep as a jeep again, lol.

I am however getting a pro-rock 44 with rcv's in the next few months b/c I'm sick of the weaksauce factory junk that is the d30.

2008 JK X 2-door, 37" MTRK's, Xenon narrows, 3" Synergy frankenlift, Prorock 44 front with 5.13's/rcv's/rubi locker, Rock Jock 60 rear w/ 5.13's and a Detroit, and lots of armor...
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post #18 of 19 Old 07-29-2011, 09:43 AM
Dynatrac
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The problem here isn't the u-joint, it's the axle shafts. The axle shaft ears are weak and they are flexing. This flex causes the clip to pop which, in turn, allows the u-joint to move and eventually fail. I'll agree that the clips aren't the best design but they have been around for decades. If you have properly forged axles you'll see very few issues with them.
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post #19 of 19 Old 07-29-2011, 11:23 PM
fratis
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cbloyer81 View Post
If he's going to go that route then he may as well stay stock. The U-Joint is the problem, not the shaft.
keep in mind you are comparing an rcv shaft to stock units. there is more difference there then just ujoints. there is nothing wrong with ujoints. many people have no problems with their chromo shafts with 300m ujoints. which is a more fair comparison.

-insert meaningless out-of-place political diatribe-
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