Axle Advice for 35s on Non-Rubicon JKU - Page 2 - JeepForum.com
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post #16 of 50 Old 10-23-2014, 06:52 AM
tchaap
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Originally Posted by zjilla View Post
G2 is price competitive but I'm sure dynatrac and tera have reasons whey they are more expensive. If I were to pay 4K fora built preassembled new front axle, I wouldn't waste the cash on a D44. Like they said, It also has its limitations. Hell, the only real great thing it has over a 30 (stock) is more splines= thicker shafts.
ProRock44 has larger and thicker C's, larger and thicker tubes and thicker bracketry.

What you are talking about is the difference between a stock D30 and a stock D44


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post #17 of 50 Old 10-23-2014, 09:23 AM
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I'm also in the 5.13 on a d30 front running 37s No issues but I haven't been wheeling with it yet. (No where to go definitely doing all upgrades to the front this winter

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post #18 of 50 Old 10-23-2014, 02:19 PM
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Originally Posted by tchaap View Post
ProRock44 has larger and thicker C's, larger and thicker tubes and thicker bracketry.

What you are talking about is the difference between a stock D30 and a stock D44
yea thats what I meant: "stock". Over thicker axle tubes and Cs ( I'm not a sales man for dyna or tera) but I got all the info....tell the OP. but is an aftermarket built D44 worth the 4K PLUS PRICE TAG to run 35s? i don't think so. If i were to spend 4k on my jeep, and put it into ONE axle alone....u might as well do 60s and run 40s.

Ive debated on my own build thread if a built after market D44 was worth the Bang for 40s muchless 35s..... the OP wants to spend as little money as possible to safely run 35s.

Honestley, u can break anything that is "built", just have the know how to fix it when it happens regardless if you have a d44 or d30 or D35 D44A or d60 or gm 14 ford 9" etc. Id rather have my D30 with aftermarket shafts on the trail- knowing that if I break I have my stock shaft in the trunk to make it home with a axle shaft swap. Thats more "bang for the buck" to me. when I do go larger with my tires (over the 36.25 I have now) I will upgrade to larger axles.

OP:I stick with my original statement and get shafts/c-enforment for what you have now. If you plan on going bigger in the future....get bigger axles.

All these things that ppl are telling you need is either from experience breaking axles or what companies told them they need in order to get sales.
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post #19 of 50 Old 10-23-2014, 02:33 PM
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I've been running 35's on my stock D30 for awhile now. I'd also previously installed a lunchbox locker as well, and everything is running fine. The common consensus I found on jeepforum and through my own personal experience is that provided you don't hammer down on the skinny pedal while you're wheeling, you're going to be just fine. Gusseting and sleeving your D30 isn't going to help the weak points in the stock D30 at ALL. The main weak points in the D30 are the small pinion gear and the axle shafts. Replacing the shafts might raise the overall stress the axle can take prior to failure, but there is a trade off- It's easier and cheaper to replace a broken axle shaft than it is to replace a pinion gear.

If I were you? I would re-gear, and install a lunchbox locker. Total investment here would be around $1400 (1100 for regear, 300 for locker). The lunchbox locker install is something you can do yourself (If I can do it, so can you!). Just stay smart on the skinny pedal usage, and you'll be fine. If you want, you can always sleeve and gusset your D30 yourself later, they're very easy mods, all you need to do is go make friends with someone who knows how to weld.
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post #20 of 50 Old 10-23-2014, 02:35 PM
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but is an aftermarket built D44 worth the 4K PLUS PRICE TAG to run 35s? i don't think so.
I don't think so either...not for 35's

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post #21 of 50 Old 10-23-2014, 09:33 PM
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I didn't read all the answers here but IMO, I'd look into a used front and rear axle assembly, you'll have to replace the gears in either case but you may be able to find an entire used axle assembly for what that guy was going to charge you for upgrading the D30.

At least with a set of used axle assemblies, if they're out of a Rubicon, you'll get 4.10's to use for a while until you can afford to upgrade the gears.

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post #22 of 50 Old 10-24-2014, 12:35 PM
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Ive heard used jk rubi axles are hard to comeby and if they are available they are ussally $$$$$.

Never really shopped around for them though

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post #23 of 50 Old 10-24-2014, 01:50 PM
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A Mopar Rubicon D44 axle assembly minus the brakes lists for about $2400. That includes the E-locker too and you would just move your D30 brakes over to the new axle. Since it has 4.10 gears that would have to be addressed, but in the long run its a pretty good deal. If you throw gears, sleeves, and gussets at a D30 and break it once you would have been money ahead going the Mopar D44 route.

Forum sponsor Mopar Online Parts has it listed for $2117.50. The part number is P5153825AF

http://moparonlineparts.com/oemparts.../P5155252.html

I have to add that I've heard the Mopar crate axles were supposed to be discontinued, but there still appears to be some inventory out there if that is true. A dealer backed online store like Mopar Online Parts might maintain this part's availability opposed to a non-dealer backed store like Quadratec.

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post #24 of 50 Old 10-24-2014, 03:59 PM
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Originally Posted by JLH View Post
A Mopar Rubicon D44 axle assembly minus the brakes lists for about $2400. That includes the E-locker too and you would just move your D30 brakes over to the new axle. Since it has 4.10 gears that would have to be addressed, but in the long run its a pretty good deal. If you throw gears, sleeves, and gussets at a D30 and break it once you would have been money ahead going the Mopar D44 route.

Forum sponsor Mopar Online Parts has it listed for $2117.50. The part number is P5153825AF

http://moparonlineparts.com/oemparts.../P5155252.html

I have to add that I've heard the Mopar crate axles were supposed to be discontinued, but there still appears to be some inventory out there if that is true. A dealer backed online store like Mopar Online Parts might maintain this part's availability opposed to a non-dealer backed store like Quadratec.

Though I haven't priced it, I'd bet you could find a used rear end assembly for less than half of that. There's no way I'd spend 2K for (1) axle assembly and then have to buy and install gears.


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post #25 of 50 Old 10-25-2014, 04:49 PM
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Originally Posted by orangecrush03 View Post

Though I haven't priced it, I'd bet you could find a used rear end assembly for less than half of that. There's no way I'd spend 2K for (1) axle assembly and then have to buy and install gears.

Mark
Why would i buy a rubi 44 rear as opposed to the non rubi 44 rear other than the spline count shafts? Kinda a waste of cash for a couple more teeth on ur axle shafts and such.

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post #26 of 50 Old 10-25-2014, 06:30 PM
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Originally Posted by orangecrush03 View Post
Though I haven't priced it, I'd bet you could find a used rear end assembly for less than half of that. There's no way I'd spend 2K for (1) axle assembly and then have to buy and install gears.


Mark
The OP wasn't discussing rear axles. He wanted to discuss options about his front D30 axle. Either way, its going to be very difficult to find something used without having to change something on it.

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post #27 of 50 Old 10-25-2014, 07:51 PM
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The OP was asking about installing gears in a D30 housing and then having a bunch of modifications to it. My point was Ithat it would be cheaper to buy a used rearend assembly (D44) than modify a D30.


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post #28 of 50 Old 10-26-2014, 12:19 PM
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Mark I don't follow your your point. If he already has the factory D44 in the rear why would he change it? It would just need a regear. The D30 will require significant modifications (not worth the money in many people's opinion) or it needs to be upgraded to something heavier duty. I don't understand how changing the rear D44 would help address the OP's concerns.

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post #29 of 50 Old 10-26-2014, 12:39 PM
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Originally Posted by JLH View Post
Mark I don't follow your your point. If he already has the factory D44 in the rear why would he change it? It would just need a regear. The D30 will require significant modifications (not worth the money in many people's opinion) or it needs to be upgraded to something heavier duty. I don't understand how changing the rear D44 would help address the OP's concerns.

I'm sorry, I must have missed he had D44 in it. all I read was D30.

I was making the point rather than beefing up a D30 (as his go-to guy mentioned), he would be better going to a used D44.

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post #30 of 50 Old 10-26-2014, 01:33 PM
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Okay, we're on the same page now. It's all good.

Ah, how beautifully the orchestra sounds before a rain! In a dry sunny day there is no way for the instruments to sound this way!
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