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post #1 of 8 Old 03-19-2020, 05:51 PM Thread Starter
Azpecker
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2014 Jeep engine question

My buddy noticed an engine ticking and brought into dealership. Trying to help him out since I’m a CJ owner and said I would post on forum. Dealer stated it’s the rocker arms and recommended replacing all 24. The cost from dealership is $1800. The vehicle has just under 60k miles. Is this a common problem with these engines? I’m so surprised he would need such a big repair on such low mileage. Any suggestions, recommendations, etc is appreciated. Will engine eventually cause major problems if he doesn’t get the work done now?

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post #2 of 8 Old 03-20-2020, 01:46 AM
Geoskier9
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It is a common issue on a single rocket arm (rear passenger side) if you/he is handy it’s not a terribly difficult DIY job And I think the part was maybe $10. Yes, it will cause some severe damage without repair.
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post #3 of 8 Old 03-20-2020, 05:46 AM
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Maybe a second opinion...

I would suspect and look at OIL - pressure, type, possible sludge varnish,

There is a check list somewhere I will try to link it BUT lets consider a second opinion and looking at lifter (lash adjuster) issues.

When I see the price of OEM I think aftermarket.
When I see the quality of aftermarket I think OEM.
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post #4 of 8 Old 03-20-2020, 06:09 AM
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TMI bellow is list I mentioned, maybe a little to technical BUT my thoughts on OIL are still first check I would do...Again TMI but -

POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
1. Engine oil levelótoo high or too low. This may allow aerated oil to enter the adjusters and cause them to be spongy. 1. Check and correct the engine oil level.

2. Insufficient running time after rebuilding a cylinder head. De-aeration of the lash adjusters may be required. 2. See Belowa) Run the engine between 2000 and 3000 RPM for three to five minutes. Return the engine to standard idle speed for 30 to 60 seconds. Evaluate noise. If noise is present, repeat the process an additional 4 cycles. If noise is present after additional cycles, take the vehicle on a typical drive cycle.(b) Low speed running of up to 1 hour may be required to fully evacuate trapped air from the valvetrain system. During this time, turn engine off and let set for a few minutes before restarting. Repeat this several times after engine has reached normal operating temperature.

3. Debris/air trapped in the intake/exhaust lash adjuster(s). 3. Check the lash adjuster(s) for a collapsed condition while installed in the cylinder head. Press down on the rocker arm in a manner that would compress the lash adjuster(s). Normal adjuster(s) should feel very firm and difficult to compress. If the lash adjuster(s) can be compressed or there is lash between the rocker arm and cam lobe, remove the suspect lash adjuster(s) from the cylinder head for further evaluation (Refer to Engine/Cylinder Head/LIFTER(S), Hydraulic - Removal)(Refer To List 1).(a) A collapsed lash adjuster(s) will remain in a compressed state with no external force and no return force from the spring. This is caused when debris jams the piston causing the top plunger of the lash adjuster to stay collapsed in the bottom housing. If the lash adjuster(s) are confirmed to be collapsed, replace the lash adjuster(s)(b) A spongy lash adjuster(s) will return to its original state after being compressed. This is caused by air trapped in the lash adjuster(s)or debris blocking the check ball. The lash adjuster(s) will compress under a force and be returned to the original position under a spring force. If the lash adjuster(s) are confirmed to be spongy, repeat Step 2 as further run time may be required to de-aerate the lash adjuster(s). After repeating Step 2, see Steps 1, 4, 5, and 8.


4. Low oil pressure. 4. See below: (a) Check and correct the engine oil level. (b) Check the engine oil pressure (Refer to Engine/Lubrication - Diagnosis and Testing)(Refer To List 2). (c) Check for excessive main bearing clearance and correct (Refer to Engine/Engine Block/BEARING(S), Crankshaft - Standard Procedure)(Refer To List 3). (d) Check for a worn oil pump (Refer to Engine/Lubrication/PUMP, Engine Oil - Inspection)(Refer To List 4). Check the camshaft journals and the bearing bores for abnormal wear patterns, scoring, grooving, fatigue, pitting or a foreign material (Refer to Engine/Cylinder Head/CAMSHAFT, Engine - Removal)(Refer To List 5).





5. A plugged oil restrictor in the oil passages to the cylinder head(s). 5. Check the cylinder head oil passages for blockage. Clean or replace as necessary.

6. Worn valve guide(s). 6. Measure the valve stem-to-guide clearance (Refer to Engine/Cylinder Head/VALVES, Intake and Exhaust - Inspection)(Refer To List 6).

7. Rocker arm loose, adjuster stuck or at maximum extension and still leaves lash in the system. 7. See below: (a) Check the camshaft journal and lobe for abnormal wear patterns, scoring, grooving, fatigue, pitting or a foreign material (Refer to Engine/Cylinder Head/CAMSHAFT, Engine - Removal)(Refer To List 5). (b) Check the rocker arm(s) for proper alignment to the camshaft lobe(s) and valve stem(s) (Refer to Engine/Cylinder Head/ROCKER ARM, Valve/Removal)(Refer To List 7). (c) Check the lash adjuster(s) for proper operation and replace as necessary (Refer to Engine/Cylinder Head/LIFTER(S), Hydraulic - Removal)(Refer To List 1).

8. Air ingested into the engine oil due to a broken or cracked oil pump pickup tube. 8. Check the pickup tube and replace as necessary (Refer to Engine/Lubrication/PICK-UP, Oil Pump - Removal)(Refer To List 8).

9. Faulty lash adjuster. 9. Replace the lash adjuster(s) (Refer to Engine/Cylinder Head/LIFTER(S), Hydraulic - Removal)(Refer To List 1).

When I see the price of OEM I think aftermarket.
When I see the quality of aftermarket I think OEM.
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post #5 of 8 Old 03-20-2020, 09:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Azpecker View Post
My buddy noticed an engine ticking and brought into dealership. Trying to help him out since Iím a CJ owner and said I would post on forum. Dealer stated itís the rocker arms and recommended replacing all 24. The cost from dealership is $1800. The vehicle has just under 60k miles. Is this a common problem with these engines? Iím so surprised he would need such a big repair on such low mileage. Any suggestions, recommendations, etc is appreciated. Will engine eventually cause major problems if he doesnít get the work done now?
@Azpecker ,
We are sorry to hear that your friend is facing these concerns with their vehicle. If they would like our additional assistance while working with their dealer on this repair, feel free to send our team a private message for support.

Kathryn
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post #6 of 8 Old 03-26-2020, 05:59 PM
222Doc
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what side is ticking? How did the stealership come to this conclusion? what test did they run? Or it just a wack a'mole repair on his dime? Any codes?

The heads on these tend to be POS. as well as much of the rest of its design. How many heads did they replace of these back in say 2013? so many they were back ordered, dealer lots backed up in them. then they had to extend the warranty on them as well.

If this ones ticking on the left bank driverside i would suspect the "bad head issue". Though they claim at FOPAR that it was redesigned and "beefed up" back in 2013.5. It is NOT a valve seat as some still suggest on line. It was a guide issue that from making the casting to thin around the valves guide. This with heat would make the casting change enough to make the valve not seat properly and tick away like a old VW. This may or may not be covered by the " extended warranty granted by FOPAR." I know the early builds of the 3.6 it was, like mine had the head replaced back in 2013.10. it was a 2011.10 build of the 2012s. this extended warranty only covered the left bank. So the right bank you are SOL.

Valve train issue are rather common as well. As well is the oil filter/ cooler failing, oil pumps failing.

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post #7 of 8 Old 03-28-2020, 09:08 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the info. I’ll pass it on to my buddy.
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post #8 of 8 Old 03-29-2020, 12:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Azpecker View Post
My buddy noticed an engine ticking and brought into dealership. Trying to help him out since I’m a CJ owner and said I would post on forum. Dealer stated it’s the rocker arms and recommended replacing all 24. The cost from dealership is $1800. The vehicle has just under 60k miles. Is this a common problem with these engines? I’m so surprised he would need such a big repair on such low mileage. Any suggestions, recommendations, etc is appreciated. Will engine eventually cause major problems if he doesn’t get the work done now?
You need to get this done. A friend of mine just let his problem be, then a valve spring failed and had to pay $7000 to install a replacement engine.

Someone needs to get a lawyer to file a class action lawsuit, as I am sure, many more are in a same terrible situation dealing with this faulty engine design or sub-standard manufacturing/engines.

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