2012 JKU - Tom Woods - New Control Arms?? - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 5 Old 10-31-2019, 07:43 AM Thread Starter
Palmetto
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2012 JKU - Tom Woods - New Control Arms??

I have a 2012 JKU Rubicon with a 3.5" AEV Dualsport lift with geometry correction brackets.

My front driveshaft finally blew out the seals so I ordered a 1350 front from Tom Woods. I have yet to install it.

In the meantime, the rear driveshaft started making a click when letting off the accelerator after acceleration. It also made a slight click when mashing the gas after deceleration (loading and unloading the drive train). So, I ordered a new rear 1350 from Tom Woods.

I wasn't even thinking about pinion angles since it's been a few years since I fixed them on my old XJ and my CJ.

I went out last night just to see where the pinions were pointing relative to the transfer case output and they both appear to be pointing directly at the xfer case outputs already.

I don't mind putting in adjustable control arms, but do you think I could get away with running only the rear shaft with the stock control arms for a while until my finances recover?

So my questions:

If the pinions are already pointing at the xfer case output flanges, do I even need adjustable control arms?

If I do need adjustable arms, do I need UCA's and LCA's on front and rear or can I get away with just uppers (what combo do I need on front and what on rear).

If I have to rotate the pinions, what do I do about my spring angle?

Is there anything I am missing? Will my caster be ok if I dial in the pinion angle for the front (if necessary)?

Thanks in advance for the help.


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Quote:
Originally Posted by DiabloYJ View Post
It's a Jeep thing, I don't even understand it sometimes.
1981 CJ-7, AMC 360 bored .30 over, Edelbrock Intake, Edelbrock Cam, Edelbrock Double Roller Timing Chain, Holly 650 truck avenger carb, Flowcooler water pump. '97 Dodge 4wd Std NV4500. D300 Twin Sticked. Corbeau Seats, Custom Dash with Autometer guages, Electronic Speedo, all stainless hardware, Outlaw II Wheels, BFG AT 33" Tires, Flex-A-Lite Dual Electric Fan, AGR steering box, Borgeson steering shaft, ididit tilt column, Mean Green Starter, Tuffy console, poly gas tank, handmade rear bumper, cheap radio and speakers.

2000 XJ - HO 4.0L, 245/75R16 Goodyear Wrangler Duratracs. PSC gearbox. IRO Double Shear Trackbar. New headliner. IRO Hack & Tap SYE. IRO adjustable UCA & LCA, RE 3.5" lift, Bilstein 5100 shocks, JKS Quick Disconnects. Future mod: OTK steering, lockers, FIPK, rock sliders, JCR Bumpers, rear storage, high pinion rear (3.55), frame reinforcement, hood louvers, rack lighting.
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post #2 of 5 Old 10-31-2019, 07:55 AM
222Doc
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front should be fine since its in a no load. Rear i would bet it vibs if it has stock arms. you will need at least upper arms to tilt the pin up so its parallel to the drive shaft in the rear. If it and i can not see how it wont, driving it will damage things.

As well now that you have DC drive shafts. They MUST be greased regularly. especially the centering ball. a JK stock everything is none greased its disposable.

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post #3 of 5 Old 10-31-2019, 01:34 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the help...

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Quote:
Originally Posted by DiabloYJ View Post
It's a Jeep thing, I don't even understand it sometimes.
1981 CJ-7, AMC 360 bored .30 over, Edelbrock Intake, Edelbrock Cam, Edelbrock Double Roller Timing Chain, Holly 650 truck avenger carb, Flowcooler water pump. '97 Dodge 4wd Std NV4500. D300 Twin Sticked. Corbeau Seats, Custom Dash with Autometer guages, Electronic Speedo, all stainless hardware, Outlaw II Wheels, BFG AT 33" Tires, Flex-A-Lite Dual Electric Fan, AGR steering box, Borgeson steering shaft, ididit tilt column, Mean Green Starter, Tuffy console, poly gas tank, handmade rear bumper, cheap radio and speakers.

2000 XJ - HO 4.0L, 245/75R16 Goodyear Wrangler Duratracs. PSC gearbox. IRO Double Shear Trackbar. New headliner. IRO Hack & Tap SYE. IRO adjustable UCA & LCA, RE 3.5" lift, Bilstein 5100 shocks, JKS Quick Disconnects. Future mod: OTK steering, lockers, FIPK, rock sliders, JCR Bumpers, rear storage, high pinion rear (3.55), frame reinforcement, hood louvers, rack lighting.
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post #4 of 5 Old 11-01-2019, 11:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Palmetto View Post
I have a 2012 JKU Rubicon with a 3.5" AEV Dualsport lift with geometry correction brackets.

My front driveshaft finally blew out the seals so I ordered a 1350 front from Tom Woods. I have yet to install it.

In the meantime, the rear driveshaft started making a click when letting off the accelerator after acceleration. It also made a slight click when mashing the gas after deceleration (loading and unloading the drive train). So, I ordered a new rear 1350 from Tom Woods.

I wasn't even thinking about pinion angles since it's been a few years since I fixed them on my old XJ and my CJ.

I went out last night just to see where the pinions were pointing relative to the transfer case output and they both appear to be pointing directly at the xfer case outputs already.

I don't mind putting in adjustable control arms, but do you think I could get away with running only the rear shaft with the stock control arms for a while until my finances recover? Yes. The control arms (if necessary), will be used to correct the geometry and smooth out low speed shudder or vibrations. Driving with improper geometry will not destroy anything right away. It will just be annoying.

So my questions:

If the pinions are already pointing at the xfer case output flanges, do I even need adjustable control arms? In short, no. I'd want to get some angle numbers on this before really giving it my stamp of approval though.

If I do need adjustable arms, do I need UCA's and LCA's on front and rear or can I get away with just uppers (what combo do I need on front and what on rear). You don't need both sets. Usually we will suggest a set of uppers but either or both will do the job.

If I have to rotate the pinions, what do I do about my spring angle? Nothing. Unless you want to do a ton of work and cut, turn, and weld your spring cups. But if you need to make any angle adjustment at all it shouldn't be enough to have a significant effect on your springs.

Is there anything I am missing? Will my caster be ok if I dial in the pinion angle for the front (if necessary)? Leave your front pinion where it is. Unless your steering caster is a bit off, in which case you should adjust it according to the steering caster. The drive shaft cares what the angle is but the steering caster takes priority.

Thanks in advance for the help.
My suggestion is this: Put the shafts in and drive it. If everything is smooth then don't worry about control arms. If you get a bit of throttle sensitive shudder or vibration you may need to fine tune things by getting adjustable rear control arms. The fact that you have a JKU makes the rear angles a minor concern. If you had a 2-door it would be a differnt story. If you had a 2-door I would tell you that you absolutely need adjustable rear control arms. This is because the 3.5" of lift would affect the shorter 2-door shaft much worse than it affects the long 4-door shaft.
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post #5 of 5 Old 12-06-2019, 01:28 PM Thread Starter
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So, I've been traveling a lot for work lately with a 2 week trip overseas which stalled the install of the driveshafts, however... I did get the rear swapped the day before Thanksgiving and then drove it 200 miles. I believe everything is fine for the rear. I had a clunking noise when going through the auto trans gears before, and now that is totally gone as is the click I used to get when loading and unloading the drive train. So, I honestly couldn't be happier at this point. The Jeep feels a little different when driving but I really think that may just be because it isn't messed up anymore. I don't think I'll be needing UCA's or LCA's in the rear.

Thanks Shawn for the excellent support! I'll report back once I get the front shaft in and drive the Jeep some more.

I appreciate the help everyone!

ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ!

Do your duty in all things. You cannot do more, you should never wish to do less.
Robert E. Lee


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Quote:
Originally Posted by DiabloYJ View Post
It's a Jeep thing, I don't even understand it sometimes.
1981 CJ-7, AMC 360 bored .30 over, Edelbrock Intake, Edelbrock Cam, Edelbrock Double Roller Timing Chain, Holly 650 truck avenger carb, Flowcooler water pump. '97 Dodge 4wd Std NV4500. D300 Twin Sticked. Corbeau Seats, Custom Dash with Autometer guages, Electronic Speedo, all stainless hardware, Outlaw II Wheels, BFG AT 33" Tires, Flex-A-Lite Dual Electric Fan, AGR steering box, Borgeson steering shaft, ididit tilt column, Mean Green Starter, Tuffy console, poly gas tank, handmade rear bumper, cheap radio and speakers.

2000 XJ - HO 4.0L, 245/75R16 Goodyear Wrangler Duratracs. PSC gearbox. IRO Double Shear Trackbar. New headliner. IRO Hack & Tap SYE. IRO adjustable UCA & LCA, RE 3.5" lift, Bilstein 5100 shocks, JKS Quick Disconnects. Future mod: OTK steering, lockers, FIPK, rock sliders, JCR Bumpers, rear storage, high pinion rear (3.55), frame reinforcement, hood louvers, rack lighting.
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